On Buying a Hunter 33 and the Yanmar 2 Gm

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Thomas Loftus

I have a question on the Yanmar engine in the 1981 Hunter 33 we are thinking of buying. The plate on the motor says "13 HP," but all the available information seems to point to 15 hp. Is there a 13 Hp version of this engine? The owner comments in the forum seem to point to a slightly underpowered set-up with the 15--so I quess I need input on this dilemma. What say you owners of the Hunter 33? Go for it? We're in love with the boat, and pending a survey plan on owning it.
 
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Mac Lindsay

HP

Thomas; The Yanmar engine in question is rated at 13 HP at shaft and 15HP at engine according to the Yanmar manual. This is the Yanmar 2gm or 2gmf engine. The 2gm is raw water cooled and the 2gmf is fresh water cooled. I have a 1984 H31 with the Yanmer 2gmf engine which is adequate for the H31. The older H33 has almost the same specs for displacemnt so this engine will serve you well. Yes, it would be nice to have a larger engine sometimes but those times aren't worth not considering the purchase of the H33. In the future if you need to repower, then consider a larger engine if you feel it is neccessary. regards, Mac
 
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Terry Arnold

2gm rating

I have the same 2gm engine in my 79 H33, repowered sometime in the past from the original 2qm. The 13 hp rating is a continuous rating at 3400 rpm. (The plate on the engine should say this explicitly) 15 hp is the max rating at 3600, the engine max governed rpm. The 2gm is a wonderful engine and has proven adequate for me as an auxiliary for the H33. It will drive the boat with clean bottom, properly propped, at close to hull speed. Bigger engines will make the transom squat and make a bigger wave but do little to increase speed. Also seldom mentioned in the discussions about repowering is the greater fuel comsumption (reduced range) which necessarily goes with a bigger engine trying to drive at higher speeds. Jack Beale recently posted a good discussion of just what a 3 blade prop can do, positive and negative.
 
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Tim Schaaf

Another vote in favor

I actually have the original 2qm that came with my 1980 H33. You don't want to know how many hours I have on it, and, after a top end job two years ago, I expect it to go many more. It has a rating of 14 hp continuous, 15 max, so it is about the same size. Although I do everything to keep my boat light, the fact that I have lived aboard for 16 years and cruised it extensively, probably means it has more stuff (and junk) aboard than most, and thus is heavier. 500 pounds of ground tackle, lots of cruising add ons and spares, etc. etc....you get the idea. Anyway, with that load, the little Yanmar can still push the boat at a bit more than six knots on flat water with a two bladed prop, although my cruising speed is usually between 5 and 5.5 knots. So, although I do think it is about the minimum size for the boat, it is OK. Terry mentions the issue of fuel consumption with the bigger engine. In addition, a bigger engine would spend a lot of its time not working very hard, and Yanmars (and most diesels) DO like to work hard. Personally, I see no problems with salt water engines, and they are much simpler. A very good mechanic (not American) once pointed out to me that a correctly designed salt water cooled engine, properly taken care of, will last about 90 to 95% as long as a fresh water cooled engine....he pointed out that the whole heat exchanger system was originally designed so that Americans could have hot water showers, not to prolong the life of the engine!!! Anyway, my experience with a salt water cooled engine has been excellent, so I would not shy away from one. Good luck with your H33...it is a great boat.
 
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steven f.

upgraded and love it

I realize I'm in the minority here but my 1981 H33 was upgraded to a Westerbeke 24 hp. Yes, she squats a bit when she's pegged but I also can power out the passes with ease against most currents. The original engine is a great engine, no doubt about that. I've found that with the larger engine I have the ability to do more (such as power off the many sand bar's around here). As for range, I have a 22 gal. fuel tank and can motor from Charlotte Harbor Fl. to Havana and back to Key West on one tank and a six gallon jerry can. Like everything else in boating there are pro's and con's. Cost is one BIG con. I've heard many Yanmar owners say that simply putting on a proper three bladed prop is all they needed. Either way we love our H33, she has proven to be a safe, affordable, fun boat for us and I'm sure it will be for you too.
 
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Thomas Loftus

Thanks, and anything else?

Just wanted to say thanks for the responses concerning the Yanmar in the Hunter 33 we are in the process of buying. My anxieties concerning HP are gone--I come from a "bigger is better" society--and I am on to thinking about other aspects of this purchase. I am happy to hear you all enjoy the boat, and I hope we will too. Pending the results of a survey, we will be the owners. Are there any other things anyone would like to point out to a potential 33 owner?
 
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Ken Palmer

salt water cooled engine

Tim, I have the Yanmar 2gm on my 1981 H33. It has been a fresh water boat all of its life here on the Great Lakes. You mentioned that that engine can be cooled with salt water. I always thought that you needed a heat exchanger in order to keep the salt water out of the engine. Can you please fill me in? Thanks. Ken Palmer
 
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Joe Gooch

Ditto on the 33

Thomas, I could not agree with Tim more. However, while my 33 was out I put a 14 x 12 pitch three blade (Michigan Dyna) prop on it. I credit the three blade with churning me out of a couple of possible groundings; the power thrust was increased but not necessarily the speed. The 33 is a sweetheart boat. Joe
 
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Tony Z.

Something to concider

If your yanmar is freshwater cooled, you can't make hot domestic water from it. I did not know this when I bought my H-33. It's my only issue w/ the boat and it's my faoult for not knowing. Just in cas it's important.
 
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Tim Schaaf

Salt water for Ken Palmer

Ken, the 2 QM (as opposed to the 2 GM) was designed to be raw water cooled. Most engines, nowadays, are designed to be freshwater cooled. A raw water cooled engine is generally a bit heavier, as it has more metal in it to compensate for some inevitable corrosion, galvanic, and otherwise. The cooling passages are very large, the engine has zincs to minimize corrosion, and most significantly, the engine has to run much cooler. If it gets up to about 160 degrees, the salt will scale up the cooling system, and 160 is pretty cool for a diesel. Most raw water cooled engines run at about 130, depending on where the temperature sender is located. That is a little cool for maximum efficiency, but a raw water engine is significantly less complex, and has none of the inevitable heat exchanger problems common to other engines. And those problems can get quite catastrophic. A raw water cooled engine can have a heat exchanger added and become a fresh water cooled engine, but the reverse is NOT the case. By the way, the raw water is usually thought of as being salt water, but it occurs to me that a raw water cooled engine used in fresh water, is probably the best of all worlds!
 
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