Old wiring voltage drop

Mar 13, 2011
175
Islander Freeport 41 Longmont
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To set the stage: 1977 Islander Freeport 41' Ketch, front navigation lights come on with forward cabin breaker and forward head light goes out when the navigation lights are turned on. Some wiring is original and fully painted over when the inside of the hull was repainted in 2003 (it's a nice chocolate brown). One more interesting and eventually important point, forward navigation lights are small 1 mile rated LED so not legal for this size boat.

The challenge is to fix the wiring and replace the LED lights with legal 2 mile rated LED lights.

I first pulled the starboard light and found that the wiring was simply twisted together, not even a wire nut (I was hoping for something even if it was bad).

Ok now to trace the wires (red & black). Down to the anchor locker, yep can see them come through the cap rail into the anchor locker, then into the forward locker over the v-berth and back to a small locker in the forward head which is split by the forward chain plate. Of course this leaves almost enough room to get 1 hand in to make any new connections.

This is where it gets interesting. Now to sort through the 8 wires here, I can almost see the wires and can see the wiring for the starboard side of the v-berth alongside of the running light wires. Sort through and eventually figure out the running light wire that was switched with the v-berth light. Make the cut and start to rewire. New fittings, clamped on as best I can. Add some wiring but running all new wasn't going to happen today. Too many places that I still don't have good access and wires are tied together. However, multi meters shows 12.5+volts so should be good to go.

Back up on deck. Check out the wiring and voltage. Hmmmm.. 7.5 volts. LED only lights up 4 of the 10 LEDs, What gives, back down below, 12.5+ volts, remove port side wire and I get 12.5+. Ok now to remove the port side light, yep same twisted wire and still no connector, wire nut or even tape. Nice green corrosion on the twisted wire clumps. Trim everything up, new connectors and amazingly now I have a full 12.5+ and all 10 LEDs light up on both port and starboard lights. Yea success.

Only took all afternoon and twisting myself into a few positions that this old body doesn't fit into anymore. The most interesting part was getting only partial voltage due to the corroded and poor connections. I'm just an amatuer at the electrical and so was flumuxed by the 7.5 volt reading when I expected 12+. One wire with 12.5+ wired to two wires should give me 12.5+ at both end wires unless my 1 semester of college electronics was totally wasted. How corroded and poor connections draw off 5+ volts was a mystery to me and caused way too many trips between v-berth and deck.

Sorry for the long rant but thought it might be interesting for others to hear. I know my fix isn't perfect or even fully to code but it is much better than before and gets me to the next project. How to raise the yacht specialties binnacle guard by 8 inches for my new chart plotter.

The joys of working on an old boat

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Oct 24, 2010
2,405
Hunter 30 Everett, WA
Corrosion can do same seemingly strange things. The voltage drop shows you that part of the power you wanted to go to the lights was wasted in heat in one or more of those poor connections. Also, never hope for wire nuts on a boat. They are wrong and dangerous for several reasons. Use quality crimped connectors.

Now you need to look for other twisted connections. They all need to be replaced. We had a previous boat that was wired that way and ended up replacing all the power wires in the boat. I didn't find anything over 18 inches that didn't have multiple poor connections (all done wrong). It's surprising no fire had started. This is just as dangerous as bad rigging.

Ken
 
Jun 19, 2004
365
Island Packet IP 32 99 Forked River, NJ
WOW! I'll never again complain about the strange things we find on our '73 Morgan 28!!!! (but I will tell everyone about it) :doh:
 
Jul 6, 2013
223
Catalina 30TR, Atomic 4 2480 Milwaukee
Ohm's Law at work. The increased resistance in the line due to poor connections and corrosion is the likely reason for the voltage drop.
As Ken states, this makes a hot spot and risk of fire. I agree that good crimped connectors are best. I use the ones that have heat shrinkable insulation.
 
Mar 13, 2011
175
Islander Freeport 41 Longmont
So the saga continues. This evening I go to do final mounting of the lights. Needed to drug out some more space for connections, redo the connections with heat shrink but connectors and set the lights. Everything looked good until I turned on the running lights. Stern light good but no bow lights. What gives, it all worked yesterday. .... Oh wait, I remember I had the forward cabin lights off. Sure enough turns that switch off and now I have running lights....

Why does turning a switch off get me working lights? Could I have the ground wires swapped? Do I have a bad setup at the panel? I'm open to ideas.

At least now I know how to get running lights all working but it would be good to have the cabin lights working as well.

All input is welcome!!!
 
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Oct 24, 2010
2,405
Hunter 30 Everett, WA
So the saga continues. This evening I go to do final mounting of the lights. Needed to drug out some more space for connections, redo the connections with heat shrink but connectors and set the lights. Everything looked good until I turned on the running lights. Stern light good but no bow lights. What gives, it all worked yesterday. .... Oh wait, I remember I had the forward cabin lights off. Sure enough turns that switch off and now I have running lights....

Why does turning a switch off get me working lights? Could I have the ground wires swapped? Do I have a bad setup at the panel? I'm open to ideas.

At least now I know how to get running lights all working but it would be good to have the cabin lights working as well.

All input is welcome!!!
2 choices: The light switch is wired wrong, or more likely the ground is bad and so the return from those LED lights is going through the same ground as the cabin lights. When the cabin lights are on, the current from the cabin lights causes the voltage to rise in the bad ground until the LED lights won't turn on. This is a classic trailer light problem. Just fix the ground (or run a new one.)

Ken
 
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