Hi, I have a 1980 C30 with a beige hull and deck. The boat has always been on the east coast and now the hull is heavily oxidized. I have cleaned her with the usual soap and some soft scrub and removed alot of dirt. The shine is of course still non existant and the color is very faded. I have a few gelcoat chips and gouges in the hull from PO mishaps. Plus the bumpers have worn the gelcoat in several areas into a rather rough pitted texture upon close inspection of the area. The boat was left for long periods with old dirty bumpers. Anyways, I have been bringing my new boat back to life and was wondering if you would recommend any of your products to renew her appearance without the costs of repainting. I do not have the time or money to repaint. The gelgoat is still in good enough shape that I would believe that it can look decent once again. Your advise and can I apply while the boat is in the water??? Many thanks, Paul
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Get an Island Girl Kit.
Paul: Get an Island Girl kit. This is one of the only products on the market that will actually restore your gel coat. This product can be used to clean and restore your entire boat. You may be surprised what it looked like in 1980 (chips exluded). One of the advantages of this process is that you can do a section at a time. You can start in the cockpit. Clean, condition and wax. Then you can move on the other sections.
Paul: Get an Island Girl kit. This is one of the only products on the market that will actually restore your gel coat. This product can be used to clean and restore your entire boat. You may be surprised what it looked like in 1980 (chips exluded). One of the advantages of this process is that you can do a section at a time. You can start in the cockpit. Clean, condition and wax. Then you can move on the other sections.
B
Bob Camarena
I agree with Steve
I have a 1981 beige hull C-30 that was badly oxidized. Steve advised me to go the Island Girl route as well. It took me over a year to follow his advice, but I'm glad I did. I do have one more piece of advice. Read the instructions carefully and don't cut corners. If you run into any difficulties, contact Jim Willis, the president of Island Girl via e-mail and he'll personally advise you. Good luck. It may seem a little pricey compared to some of the alternatives, but don't be put off by it. You'll save a lot of time, have better results and be happier in the long run.
I have a 1981 beige hull C-30 that was badly oxidized. Steve advised me to go the Island Girl route as well. It took me over a year to follow his advice, but I'm glad I did. I do have one more piece of advice. Read the instructions carefully and don't cut corners. If you run into any difficulties, contact Jim Willis, the president of Island Girl via e-mail and he'll personally advise you. Good luck. It may seem a little pricey compared to some of the alternatives, but don't be put off by it. You'll save a lot of time, have better results and be happier in the long run.
P
Paul
Thanks
Thanks for the input guys. I will be looking into this for the next project. One question remains....Can I apply the restorer while the boat is still in the water??? I know I will proably get a work out reaching down along the water line...or does it make sense to pull boat and apply over a weekend? Thanks again, Paul
Thanks for the input guys. I will be looking into this for the next project. One question remains....Can I apply the restorer while the boat is still in the water??? I know I will proably get a work out reaching down along the water line...or does it make sense to pull boat and apply over a weekend? Thanks again, Paul
You can do it in the water.
Paul: You can do it in the water. If you cannot get to the part near the waterline, you can do it later. That is what is really nice about the product. You can clean an area and redo it very easy. Unlike the acrylics it only takes one coat too. There is really not much to remove if you ever want to put anything else on the boat.
Paul: You can do it in the water. If you cannot get to the part near the waterline, you can do it later. That is what is really nice about the product. You can clean an area and redo it very easy. Unlike the acrylics it only takes one coat too. There is really not much to remove if you ever want to put anything else on the boat.
J
Jim WIllis
Use of IG system with machines?
While I have used a Black and Decker "mouse" with the scuff pads, I have been thinking that a cordless or air-driven machine would be great for appication and spreading. In a boat yard, clambering about on scaffolding and ladders can be hazardous! Although easier in the water (from dock or dinghy) there is still the problem of reach. Does anyone know of a light weight, long-handled thing with a slow (variable) speed angle head that could be used for paper towel pads, microfiber cloth etc. Then one could work from the dock or boatyard floor easily and much faster. Do I need to invent one or jury rig one? It should probably be cordless or air-driven to avoid electrocution problems! Glad of any input. With regards to applying in the water, one can apply the latest version of the wax even when the water is lapping. Because Ionly had three complaints this year about slow setting (corrected by instruction clarification - the silkenseal undercoat acts like a catalyst) the latest batch has about a 10% increase in quick-setting resin making set- up much faster and waterproofing pretty much immeciate. One customer even uses it below the waterline!. I'd like to hear any input and criticism so that we can continue to improve before getting into a mass market (inc cars and RVs). Thanks Jim W
While I have used a Black and Decker "mouse" with the scuff pads, I have been thinking that a cordless or air-driven machine would be great for appication and spreading. In a boat yard, clambering about on scaffolding and ladders can be hazardous! Although easier in the water (from dock or dinghy) there is still the problem of reach. Does anyone know of a light weight, long-handled thing with a slow (variable) speed angle head that could be used for paper towel pads, microfiber cloth etc. Then one could work from the dock or boatyard floor easily and much faster. Do I need to invent one or jury rig one? It should probably be cordless or air-driven to avoid electrocution problems! Glad of any input. With regards to applying in the water, one can apply the latest version of the wax even when the water is lapping. Because Ionly had three complaints this year about slow setting (corrected by instruction clarification - the silkenseal undercoat acts like a catalyst) the latest batch has about a 10% increase in quick-setting resin making set- up much faster and waterproofing pretty much immeciate. One customer even uses it below the waterline!. I'd like to hear any input and criticism so that we can continue to improve before getting into a mass market (inc cars and RVs). Thanks Jim W
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