I am replacing some galley cabinets since the previous cabinets were severly damaged. Can I use regular (non-marine) plywood for this? I found some very nice maple veneer 3/4" plywood at home depot and would love to be able to use this. I just want to make sure I do not need marine plywood since this will be inside the cabin. Thanks!
Okay to use plywood for cabinets??
- Thread starter deeman7777
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Beware
Before you start, ask if you can afford to go cheap, since it may involve doing it over again later. I used the birch veneer ply from HD for a bathroom vanity re-do in my house -- essentially the same stuff, but a bathroom is dry, compared to a boat. For a boat, 3/4 inch is likely overkill. Are you planning to stand on this thing? What are you attaching it to? You don't want the cabinet to be stronger than what's holding it to the boat! The veneer is also amazingly thin. Don't sand it much, or you'll wear through. Marine ply would be better, since it has fewer voids in the inside plies where moisture can get trapped and cause problems, and also comes with veneer options. With marine or standard materials, be sure to epoxycoat the edges of every piece to prevent moisture from wicking into the plies. Moisture will at the very least lift the finish, before starting to delaminate the entire sheet.
Before you start, ask if you can afford to go cheap, since it may involve doing it over again later. I used the birch veneer ply from HD for a bathroom vanity re-do in my house -- essentially the same stuff, but a bathroom is dry, compared to a boat. For a boat, 3/4 inch is likely overkill. Are you planning to stand on this thing? What are you attaching it to? You don't want the cabinet to be stronger than what's holding it to the boat! The veneer is also amazingly thin. Don't sand it much, or you'll wear through. Marine ply would be better, since it has fewer voids in the inside plies where moisture can get trapped and cause problems, and also comes with veneer options. With marine or standard materials, be sure to epoxycoat the edges of every piece to prevent moisture from wicking into the plies. Moisture will at the very least lift the finish, before starting to delaminate the entire sheet.
weight
3/4" might be a little heavy and you factor in the cubic " of the space it takes up... I believe any plywood will be fine if you seal both sides of it.
3/4" might be a little heavy and you factor in the cubic " of the space it takes up... I believe any plywood will be fine if you seal both sides of it.
deeman,
What caused the damage to the old cabinets? If it was humidity in the cabin I would be make sure that the plywood at least had exterior glue. The plys in some plywood will buckle with a hint of moisture. I am speaking mostly of pine. I have had a piece of 1/2" birch plywood that was polyurethaned under the cockpit, to level the storage area, for two years with no problem. r.w.landau
What caused the damage to the old cabinets? If it was humidity in the cabin I would be make sure that the plywood at least had exterior glue. The plys in some plywood will buckle with a hint of moisture. I am speaking mostly of pine. I have had a piece of 1/2" birch plywood that was polyurethaned under the cockpit, to level the storage area, for two years with no problem. r.w.landau
Thanks for the info
The reason for the 3/4" ply is the fact that Home Depot and Lowes only stock nice veneer ply in 3/4". They only had one type of 1/2" vaneer ply and it did not look good. I was really hoping to use 1/2" also. The reason the boards were damaged is because the boat sat on the hard for 5 years and somehow (I just bought the boat and the PO was clueless) the cabin acquired standing water - enough to ruin the cupboards. Thanks!
The reason for the 3/4" ply is the fact that Home Depot and Lowes only stock nice veneer ply in 3/4". They only had one type of 1/2" vaneer ply and it did not look good. I was really hoping to use 1/2" also. The reason the boards were damaged is because the boat sat on the hard for 5 years and somehow (I just bought the boat and the PO was clueless) the cabin acquired standing water - enough to ruin the cupboards. Thanks!
Marine Plywood
Sealing "both ends" of plywood won't take care of the problem. The edges of plywoon act as a "wick" to water, and pull it to the interior of the wood. If you sealed all of the edges, you might be OK, depending on how wet the wood will get. The decision as to whether or not to use marine grade should not really be based on what wood is available locally, nor should the thickness of the wood. You should base it on what you NEED for your boat, then find the wood. Non-marine grade wood has two problems. One is the glue that is used is not meant to get wet. An exterior grade wood would take care of that problem. The other problem is that marine grade wood has no voids in the inner plys. An exterior grade wood will, as will an interior grade wood. Your decision on whether to use marine grade should be based on how frequently you think the wood will get wet, how wet it will get, and how confident you are of your predictions. I'm in the process of completely rebuilding my interior on my O'Day 25, and all of the wood will be marine grade. I've always felt that whenever possible on a sailboat, plans should be made for things to get very wet. The price difference between marine grade and interior wood (about double the price) isn't worth the trouble of having to redo what I'm doing now. It's all marine grade for me.
Sealing "both ends" of plywood won't take care of the problem. The edges of plywoon act as a "wick" to water, and pull it to the interior of the wood. If you sealed all of the edges, you might be OK, depending on how wet the wood will get. The decision as to whether or not to use marine grade should not really be based on what wood is available locally, nor should the thickness of the wood. You should base it on what you NEED for your boat, then find the wood. Non-marine grade wood has two problems. One is the glue that is used is not meant to get wet. An exterior grade wood would take care of that problem. The other problem is that marine grade wood has no voids in the inner plys. An exterior grade wood will, as will an interior grade wood. Your decision on whether to use marine grade should be based on how frequently you think the wood will get wet, how wet it will get, and how confident you are of your predictions. I'm in the process of completely rebuilding my interior on my O'Day 25, and all of the wood will be marine grade. I've always felt that whenever possible on a sailboat, plans should be made for things to get very wet. The price difference between marine grade and interior wood (about double the price) isn't worth the trouble of having to redo what I'm doing now. It's all marine grade for me.
Another Outlet?
There has to be more outlets for plywood than the two you mentioned. Look in the phonebook and check out the small outfits that cater to cabinet makers and wood hobbiests. You'll be surprised; the prices are not that high.
There has to be more outlets for plywood than the two you mentioned. Look in the phonebook and check out the small outfits that cater to cabinet makers and wood hobbiests. You'll be surprised; the prices are not that high.
Typical Teak plywood is not marine?
One last thought - The various peices of teak veneer plywood found on my boat - and I will assume most others - is not marine grade plywood with the teak veneer. This was part of my rationale of thinking I would be able to use non-marine ply for this project.
One last thought - The various peices of teak veneer plywood found on my boat - and I will assume most others - is not marine grade plywood with the teak veneer. This was part of my rationale of thinking I would be able to use non-marine ply for this project.
Marine Grade Wood Not Needed for Interior
Anything that would work in a kitchen or bathroom would be fine. Pay close attention to anyplace where water collects and seal it up doubly well. I would not use any type of MDF but any of the furniture grade stuff will do fine.
Anything that would work in a kitchen or bathroom would be fine. Pay close attention to anyplace where water collects and seal it up doubly well. I would not use any type of MDF but any of the furniture grade stuff will do fine.
try a compromise
Most boatbuilders use a/c exterior plywood not marine. cost is less and the wood is made of waterproof glue, its not underwater and only one side will show anyway. 3/4 is way to heavy for cabnets the boat will weigh a ton and sail like a log.
Most boatbuilders use a/c exterior plywood not marine. cost is less and the wood is made of waterproof glue, its not underwater and only one side will show anyway. 3/4 is way to heavy for cabnets the boat will weigh a ton and sail like a log.
ODay 25 refurb
I just purchased an O'Day25 (?1977)and all i have is boat and sails. On blocks for 7 years! No manuals ,specs, electrical reqirements, etc. Where do I begin to redo any electric components? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, ROC
I just purchased an O'Day25 (?1977)and all i have is boat and sails. On blocks for 7 years! No manuals ,specs, electrical reqirements, etc. Where do I begin to redo any electric components? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, ROC
O'Day 25 refurb
Rich, That veers pretty far off-topic (and it's in the wrong forum to boot). Send me an email off-list, and I'll try to get some information to you that will help. hparsons@parsonsys.com
Rich, That veers pretty far off-topic (and it's in the wrong forum to boot). Send me an email off-list, and I'll try to get some information to you that will help. hparsons@parsonsys.com
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