Oil...or Varnish...?

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Squidd

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Sep 26, 2011
890
AMF Alcort Paceship PY26 Washburn Wi. Apostle Islands
Topside trim work...

Putting on new Cumaru rub rails and grab rails and need to sand and refinish companionway teak ...

Do I want to "oil" my wood with say Australian Timber Oil or Mesmers...for open grain wet look...

Or four coats of varnish...? For glossy hard coat...?

Or just let it all age gray...?
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
With the price of teak now approaching $50.00+/ board ft. I think you dont want it to go grey (eroded).

Some thoughts:

• SEMCO - an acrylic type finish but needs to be recoated at approx. 6 months. Easily removed with TSP soak.

• Oil - cheapest but needs to be reapplied constantly. Easiest to remove, just soak with TSP. You can mix up 25% oil based varnish and 75% oil to make it last longer; or, buy a 'resinated' (varnish added) oil such a "NuTeak" by MaryKate. All 'oil finishes' will eventually turn dark ——> 'black' (oxidized). Resinated oils can be applied thick and then 'handrubbed' for a gloss that exceeds varnish.

• Cetol - OK but eventually builds ups and then 'cracks'. Difficult to remove.

• Honey Teak (www.signaturefinish.com) - very expensive but can last 10+ years with occasional 'maintenance clear-coats' .... can be flat sanded and power buffed. Is an acrylic-urethane copolymer 2 part + 2 part. Apply THICK

• Bristol Finish - similar to Honey Teak, but not as long lasting. Needs to be applied very thick or you get premature failure.

• Varnish - unless the wood is 'sealed' (from behind) to prevent water migration 'through' the wood, will eventually lift. Sealing of the undersurfaces should be via 'penetrating epoxies'. You can get 'carried away' for the longest lasting varnish job: Seal under-surfaces + 4-6 coats oil based + 2-3 urethane based + 3/4.oz fiberglass cloth (angle hair) + 2 coats of 2 part clear (Interthane, Perfection™,etc.). However, all varnish has poor/minimal UV filters (ferrous oxide) and the surface wood cells will ultimately be destroyed, thus the eventual 'lift'.

Summary Rx.: if you want 'easy' Id suggest SEMCO; if you want 'ultimately dazzling' + long lasting Id suggest Honey Teak.

Example of Honey Teak: http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=135637 posting #5
Other Honey Teak:
 

Squidd

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Sep 26, 2011
890
AMF Alcort Paceship PY26 Washburn Wi. Apostle Islands
That is some nice looking wood...

I'm afraid it would outshine the rest of the boat...
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
.... then you need to look up Maine Sail's "Gelcoat Polishing" + restoration thread on this forum. ;-)

Just about any old boat's gelcoat can be 'worked' back to a 'showroom' shine: - wet flat-sanding and then power-buffing with 3M Finese-it™ and 3M Perfect-it™, etc.
 

Squidd

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Sep 26, 2011
890
AMF Alcort Paceship PY26 Washburn Wi. Apostle Islands
Yep, I read that, and am planning on trying that with the "above waterline" hull section, still need new topside paint and redo underwater hull finish...

Dang, I bought this thing so I could be a sailor...not a painter...
 
Apr 8, 2010
1,606
Frers 33 41426 Westport, CT
I have been using Daly's Seafin hard drying teak oil and Profin varnish products for a couple years now and extremly pleased with the results. I bought them because they were the OEM stain / oil and varnish used by hunter when my boat was new, and I wanted to maintain the original look that attracted me to the boat originally. After trying them I was extremly pleased with the results. The professsional finish carpenter who redid my galley after the fire has said he will be using it on his own boat he liked it so much.

I have done brand new teak as well as refinished the existing teak and the results are consistant and very nice looking.

1) I start with a couple coats of the Seafin Teak Oil, let them dry (at least 24 hours, preferrably 48 hours, if you don't wait the final cure process of the varnish will take MUCH longer), it drys hard and won't ever turn black (at least not in less than 21 years)
2) Apply a coat of Profin varnish (I prefer the gloss, but you may like satan) following the directions. I apply with a brush then wipe excess off and smooth with pre wetted paper towel. Let that first coat dry for a day until it feels sandable.
3) Lightly sand it with 220 grit paper, wipe dust off with clean paper towel and put another coat on with the same procedure. As soon as this coat is no longer tacky to the touch move on to the next step.
4) For outdoor or poorly protected / abused surfaces put a 3rd coat on at this time, otherwise you can skip this coat if it is a decorative piece.
5) The surface should be starting to look glassy at this stage, if not, you didn't sand enough with the 220 grit, and you will need to resand and apply another coat
6) Sand surface with 800-1000 grit wet / dry paper and wipe dust off.
7) Apply 4th coat (3rd if you skipped steps 4 and 5) of Profin varnish to surface
8) Let dry and cure for at least 24-48 hours before handleing, varnish will take as much as a week in normal conditions, longer in cooler conditions, before it fully hardens to it's final state, but after 24-48 hours you should be to work with the piece and not mar the finish.

I have already redone 75% of the interior woodwork on my boat using the procedure above and the results are very very nice. The Profin is a very very light varnish and it actually soaks into and penetrates the wood as much as as 1mm, providing a very deep layer of protection. As a result of how light each coat goes on, the wood grain will still come through the finish so you actually retain a very good degree of grip on the surface even when wet. I did my first truly outdoor application this summer to my companionway slats, so I can't yet say how long it will last 100% exposed to the elements, but it's going on 4-5 months now and no signs of degredation or weathering yet.
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
Once you 'restore' a boat's gelcoat, then the follow-up 'maintenance' is quick and easy.

The downside is that if you dont have a FLAT surface in the gelcoat, it will soon 'alligator' then rapidly oxidize' .... and then you MUST go through the awful agony of 'painting'. Once you paint, you are committed to paint ... and then re-paint and re-paint again and again. Nothing beats the longevity of 'maintained' gelcoat. ;-)

Gelcoat can even be 'repaired' and computer color matched (spraying with small self-contained 'aerosol' spray devices) ... most 'boat paints' are very difficult to 'repair'. Do websearch for "gelcoat + spray+ repair", etc. There are many 'instructional videos' on gel (spray) repair that are quite suitable for DIY.
 
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