oil filter for a four stoke honda
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Oil Filters
Oil filters are like batteries. Lots of different brands, very few manufacturers. Personally I would prefer a Wix brand over Fram. IMHO, Fram is at the bottom of the barrel as far as filters are concerned. As long as the numbers cross over as a match, you should be fine with any brand you prefer.
Oil filters are like batteries. Lots of different brands, very few manufacturers. Personally I would prefer a Wix brand over Fram. IMHO, Fram is at the bottom of the barrel as far as filters are concerned. As long as the numbers cross over as a match, you should be fine with any brand you prefer.
A friend pointed this out many years agoo
"Clogged filter by pass -- most (but NOT all) filters have a by-pass if the filter becomes clogged. The old saying, "Dirty oil is better than no oil at all" is very true. This by-pass can usually be detected by seeing a spring on the inside of the filter which opens when the differential pressure reaches 11-14 pounds. You might also look at the filter and see a black rubber diaphragm under the small inlet holes. This is an anti drain back valve that keeps the oil from draining out of the filter when the engine is off( or when removing the filter) ."
That said I use Frams and synthetic oil, change the filter once in between complete oil changes with a small addition of fresh oil to make up for the removed old filter.
"Clogged filter by pass -- most (but NOT all) filters have a by-pass if the filter becomes clogged. The old saying, "Dirty oil is better than no oil at all" is very true. This by-pass can usually be detected by seeing a spring on the inside of the filter which opens when the differential pressure reaches 11-14 pounds. You might also look at the filter and see a black rubber diaphragm under the small inlet holes. This is an anti drain back valve that keeps the oil from draining out of the filter when the engine is off( or when removing the filter) ."
That said I use Frams and synthetic oil, change the filter once in between complete oil changes with a small addition of fresh oil to make up for the removed old filter.
The proverbial question "is that aftermarket filter just as good as the factory version"?
If it is you win and you put a few bucks back in your pocket. If it was not you are probably out a couple of grand for a new engine or at least a rebuild.
Do some research on oil filters, there is a LOT of difference on the different brands. For me, I ALWAYS use the OEM Yanmar filter.
If it is you win and you put a few bucks back in your pocket. If it was not you are probably out a couple of grand for a new engine or at least a rebuild.
Do some research on oil filters, there is a LOT of difference on the different brands. For me, I ALWAYS use the OEM Yanmar filter.
Sorry to burst bubbles; but, with essentially only ONE world's manufacturer of the technical filter paper used for engine oil filters ... virtually ALL such filters will have comparable performance. Alhstrøm of Finland has acquired virtually all the worlds paper mills that supply this grade of resinated cellulose technical filter paper used in 'engine lube oil applications' and has become THE worlds monopoly for this particular grade of filter media. The various manufacturers of engine lube oil filters BUY their filter media from this ONE source.
Yanmar, Honda, etc. etc. do not make filters, they *buy* their filters which are produced by the various 'filter assemblers'. The cost of this 'rebranding' or 'vanity brands' is very substantial, plus you must additionally add the mark-up of the 'distributor', all without any 'added-value'.
The only filter differences (which is not published to the 'consumer') is the amount of 'surface area' within the filter; surface area being the main aspect of 'dirt capacity'.
With todays virtual monopoly of the filter media used in engine oil filters, it really doesnt make any difference which so-called 'brand' you choose as no matter how much excess cost you expend, or not, there will be little difference in the 'performance' of the filter. The single major 'usage' consideration for engine protection is: change the filter regularly and often.
Yanmar, Honda, etc. etc. do not make filters, they *buy* their filters which are produced by the various 'filter assemblers'. The cost of this 'rebranding' or 'vanity brands' is very substantial, plus you must additionally add the mark-up of the 'distributor', all without any 'added-value'.
The only filter differences (which is not published to the 'consumer') is the amount of 'surface area' within the filter; surface area being the main aspect of 'dirt capacity'.
With todays virtual monopoly of the filter media used in engine oil filters, it really doesnt make any difference which so-called 'brand' you choose as no matter how much excess cost you expend, or not, there will be little difference in the 'performance' of the filter. The single major 'usage' consideration for engine protection is: change the filter regularly and often.
Maybe, maybe not! Take a look at this review and some of the associated ones. There ARE quality differences. I do not think the average owner is going to start purchasing different filters and cutting them open to compare the "actual" difference. This is especially directed at the owner that wants to save $2-3 dollars once every year.
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html
There is also a link tab that you may want to take a look at. Some of this research is quite extensive.
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html
There is also a link tab that you may want to take a look at. Some of this research is quite extensive.
Being in the motorcycle business for over 30 years, I have heard all of this many times. The bottom line is this... I have never seen a factory oil filter fail - never. I have seen many after market filters fail, including Fram, not to mention the cheap overseas filters. These failures have at time ruined the engine envolved. By the way, it doesnt matter if most filter media is made by the same company. Some of the failures I have seen are: poor quality adhesives used (media became loose & clogged)
wrong threads used on spin on filter (filter shot off at high speed) anti-drain back valves made from wrong material (became hard and stopped the flow of oil)
I can also tell you, these oil filter companies did not want to pay for their defective filters. I will also guarantee you, if your engine is damaged from a bad oil filter, you better hope the filter is made by that engine's manufacturer.
wrong threads used on spin on filter (filter shot off at high speed) anti-drain back valves made from wrong material (became hard and stopped the flow of oil)
I can also tell you, these oil filter companies did not want to pay for their defective filters. I will also guarantee you, if your engine is damaged from a bad oil filter, you better hope the filter is made by that engine's manufacturer.
Yup, such crafty 'filter reports' have been around for a long time and represent the "highest level of slick marketeering' to influence the buying power of unsuspecting and unknowledgeable consumers.
If you carefully read such tripe, you will instantly never find THE important qualifier of filtration efficiency removal and accuracy correlated to the accepted global industry benchmark: The OSU (Okla.State Univ.) "F-2 filter test stand method" (This benchmark has been further qualified as an ASTM standard for 'coarse' filter efficiency evaluation (dont have the ASTM 'number' at hand). Without such 'standard' data and thus 'repeatable' data of removal efficiency ... all you can garner is 'hype'.
Yes indeed, many of the 'cheap and dirty' packagers, especially now from the 'orient', have little idea of the needs of decent filter design; but, even the 'front line' filter builders (my former employers, clients, etc.) will still have a statistical field failure of thier product (such as 1 failure for every 10K to 30K units produced). Never-the-less, most all of the filter 'builders' still BUY their filter media from ONE single world's source.
Oil Lube Filtration is NOT a 'screen door' or single pass methodology, nor are all the 'pores' of such filter all at the same µM size, rather the fluid recirculates almost infinitely through the very same filter media - and with each 'pass' will statistically leave behind the particles (typically the media rated at 5-20X µM size GREATER than the target particle size).
The simple answer is buy a from a reputable source, including valued/known 'aftermarket', change the filter often/regularly (so that you are insured that the filters media pleats are still intact and not broken by fatigue), .... and if possible put on the LARGEST 'canister' that will fit.
Lastly, avoid and dont get 'waylaid' by 'slick and unprofessional marketeering' that has little justification other than to influence an unaware consumer/user towards a certain 'brand'.
Requiring the usage of 'captive and vanity brands' for warantee purposes ... is against the 'fair trade laws' and is entirely illegal.
If you carefully read such tripe, you will instantly never find THE important qualifier of filtration efficiency removal and accuracy correlated to the accepted global industry benchmark: The OSU (Okla.State Univ.) "F-2 filter test stand method" (This benchmark has been further qualified as an ASTM standard for 'coarse' filter efficiency evaluation (dont have the ASTM 'number' at hand). Without such 'standard' data and thus 'repeatable' data of removal efficiency ... all you can garner is 'hype'.
Yes indeed, many of the 'cheap and dirty' packagers, especially now from the 'orient', have little idea of the needs of decent filter design; but, even the 'front line' filter builders (my former employers, clients, etc.) will still have a statistical field failure of thier product (such as 1 failure for every 10K to 30K units produced). Never-the-less, most all of the filter 'builders' still BUY their filter media from ONE single world's source.
Oil Lube Filtration is NOT a 'screen door' or single pass methodology, nor are all the 'pores' of such filter all at the same µM size, rather the fluid recirculates almost infinitely through the very same filter media - and with each 'pass' will statistically leave behind the particles (typically the media rated at 5-20X µM size GREATER than the target particle size).
The simple answer is buy a from a reputable source, including valued/known 'aftermarket', change the filter often/regularly (so that you are insured that the filters media pleats are still intact and not broken by fatigue), .... and if possible put on the LARGEST 'canister' that will fit.
Lastly, avoid and dont get 'waylaid' by 'slick and unprofessional marketeering' that has little justification other than to influence an unaware consumer/user towards a certain 'brand'.
Requiring the usage of 'captive and vanity brands' for warantee purposes ... is against the 'fair trade laws' and is entirely illegal.
While i have no problem using a fram on my GM based inboard powerboat
I would NOT take the same risk on a and outboard as there is really no way to tell what features are inside the OEM
I would NOT take the same risk on a and outboard as there is really no way to tell what features are inside the OEM
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