Is an oil change as simple as draining the oil from the oil plug at the back of the engine, replacing the filter and replacing the oil? I have an '84 H31 which I want to replace the oil on. I have done my car's oil before, but not a boat. Any lessons learned? Tom
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Unfortunately ............................
....... depending on the engine, you will probably have to suck it out of the dip stick hole with some form of vacuum pump. Engines usually don't have drain plugs on the crank case for pollution reasons. PS. don't wear your Sunday best when you do this. Best of luck, s/v Island Hunter
....... depending on the engine, you will probably have to suck it out of the dip stick hole with some form of vacuum pump. Engines usually don't have drain plugs on the crank case for pollution reasons. PS. don't wear your Sunday best when you do this. Best of luck, s/v Island Hunter
Oil "Sucking" Tip
If this is your first oil change then you'll find it's almost impossible to "suck" it out when the oil is cold. A couple options to warm the oil up is: 1. Drive the boat around the block several times, first going through the proper gradual warm-up stage per the engine manual then getting back into the slip trying not to let it cool off, or, 2. Running the engine while tied to the dock. There are a couple disadvantages to the second option: (1) the oil doesn't seem to get hot enough, and (2) the engine doesn't like to be idled as this soots things up, including the mixing elbow. Don't know when your mixing elbow was changed last (something you might want to check) but the parts will run over a hundred for the elbow and another hundred if you need a new stainless coupling with the left and right hand threads. Look at a elbow at the Yanmar parts store to see what they look like on the inside. What happens is they slowly clog up with soot, gradually constricting the passageway, and then the backpressure starts having negative effects on the engine and temperature, something to be avoided. There are a variety of ways to pump the oil out and I'm on my third setup. This one uses a liquid pump for my 3/8-inch drill. I fitted the largest copper tube that would fit down the dipstick hole to a clear plastic hose attached to the pump (tube on both ends of pump) and pump the old oil into a container which is then taken to a recycle place. Taking the filter off is another fun item. Recommend checking "Site Search" for "oil change(ing)", "oil filter", and the like. There are a number of old postings worth reading. Makes for a nice weekend project. P.S. The oil stains don't like to wash out so using old clothes or coveralls is very good advice. P.S. Check the air filter too.
If this is your first oil change then you'll find it's almost impossible to "suck" it out when the oil is cold. A couple options to warm the oil up is: 1. Drive the boat around the block several times, first going through the proper gradual warm-up stage per the engine manual then getting back into the slip trying not to let it cool off, or, 2. Running the engine while tied to the dock. There are a couple disadvantages to the second option: (1) the oil doesn't seem to get hot enough, and (2) the engine doesn't like to be idled as this soots things up, including the mixing elbow. Don't know when your mixing elbow was changed last (something you might want to check) but the parts will run over a hundred for the elbow and another hundred if you need a new stainless coupling with the left and right hand threads. Look at a elbow at the Yanmar parts store to see what they look like on the inside. What happens is they slowly clog up with soot, gradually constricting the passageway, and then the backpressure starts having negative effects on the engine and temperature, something to be avoided. There are a variety of ways to pump the oil out and I'm on my third setup. This one uses a liquid pump for my 3/8-inch drill. I fitted the largest copper tube that would fit down the dipstick hole to a clear plastic hose attached to the pump (tube on both ends of pump) and pump the old oil into a container which is then taken to a recycle place. Taking the filter off is another fun item. Recommend checking "Site Search" for "oil change(ing)", "oil filter", and the like. There are a number of old postings worth reading. Makes for a nice weekend project. P.S. The oil stains don't like to wash out so using old clothes or coveralls is very good advice. P.S. Check the air filter too.
Remember
Tom, When sucking the old oil out remember to open the engine oil filler cap as, otherwise, there is no way air can get in to replace the oil coming out. Also the extracted oil will be HOT so the plastic tubing will become very supple and may easily pop out of the receiving container with very messy results. I use the can left over from last year and then the cap will seal the oil inside. Dispose of the oil responsibly - the environmentalists get upset otherwise! Regards PS - Hot oil burns.
Tom, When sucking the old oil out remember to open the engine oil filler cap as, otherwise, there is no way air can get in to replace the oil coming out. Also the extracted oil will be HOT so the plastic tubing will become very supple and may easily pop out of the receiving container with very messy results. I use the can left over from last year and then the cap will seal the oil inside. Dispose of the oil responsibly - the environmentalists get upset otherwise! Regards PS - Hot oil burns.
Regarding the air filter
There have been posts about replacing the air filter on the Yanmar. There are some sailors that have opened up the air filter holder to find nothing inside. This is caused by either the previous owner not installing the filter, or the foam of the filter shredding apart with age and being sucked into the engine. When I went to the Yanmar maintenance school in Toronto, I was told not to install an air filter. They claimed the air inside the engine compartment is very clean, and there is no need for it. I suppose that to be the case in most instances. You will get the sailors that say if the Yanmar book says to put one in, then you should do it. I guess if you change it yearly, then that is OK too. Good luck with your new boat and with the oil changing. The fun has just begun. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
There have been posts about replacing the air filter on the Yanmar. There are some sailors that have opened up the air filter holder to find nothing inside. This is caused by either the previous owner not installing the filter, or the foam of the filter shredding apart with age and being sucked into the engine. When I went to the Yanmar maintenance school in Toronto, I was told not to install an air filter. They claimed the air inside the engine compartment is very clean, and there is no need for it. I suppose that to be the case in most instances. You will get the sailors that say if the Yanmar book says to put one in, then you should do it. I guess if you change it yearly, then that is OK too. Good luck with your new boat and with the oil changing. The fun has just begun. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
Tom
Everyone's comments are excellent.... couple of additional things to make the job go more easily (learned from watching the guys who do this stuff for a living) > if you warm up the engine at your slip, run engine at about 1500rpm for about 15 min, IN GEAR, to warm it up properly and avoid sooting etc. Make sure your dock lines are good and secure > get a box of latex exam gloves... you'll neeed a bunch as they tend to fall apart > get a bunch of grocery store plastic bags... put 2-3 inside each other, then carefully position this reinforced bag under your oil filter (after pumping the oil out of the dip stick, but prior to removing your old oil filter). The bag will catch the nasty old oil filter and the additional oil that will run out, saving you lots of clean up... be real careful when you lift this entire mess out from under the engine ! ! ! have other bags ready for your dirty rags, gloves, etc... >don't forget to coat your new oil filter gasket w/ new clean oil and tighten new filter w/ oil filter wrench 3/4-1 turn after it becomes slightly snug to turning it on by hand > use Yanmar or Rotilla-T oil... not regular automobile engine oil (assuming you have a diesel engine) > when you restart engine to ck for leaks, hold kill switch, leaver, or whatever when you first crank the engine over (for about 15 secs). This allows the new oil to be pumped up into (and thus lubricate)the engine before you allow the engine to actually start have funnnnnn......
Everyone's comments are excellent.... couple of additional things to make the job go more easily (learned from watching the guys who do this stuff for a living) > if you warm up the engine at your slip, run engine at about 1500rpm for about 15 min, IN GEAR, to warm it up properly and avoid sooting etc. Make sure your dock lines are good and secure > get a box of latex exam gloves... you'll neeed a bunch as they tend to fall apart > get a bunch of grocery store plastic bags... put 2-3 inside each other, then carefully position this reinforced bag under your oil filter (after pumping the oil out of the dip stick, but prior to removing your old oil filter). The bag will catch the nasty old oil filter and the additional oil that will run out, saving you lots of clean up... be real careful when you lift this entire mess out from under the engine ! ! ! have other bags ready for your dirty rags, gloves, etc... >don't forget to coat your new oil filter gasket w/ new clean oil and tighten new filter w/ oil filter wrench 3/4-1 turn after it becomes slightly snug to turning it on by hand > use Yanmar or Rotilla-T oil... not regular automobile engine oil (assuming you have a diesel engine) > when you restart engine to ck for leaks, hold kill switch, leaver, or whatever when you first crank the engine over (for about 15 secs). This allows the new oil to be pumped up into (and thus lubricate)the engine before you allow the engine to actually start have funnnnnn......
Have it done.
I have discovered that by the time you buy all the stuff you need, spend an hour or two, make a mistake or two, spill something, overfill something else, buy the wrong part and have to back to the store, can't get the filter off, that's it's much easier to pay someone $100 to do it. Yes I can do it, but I'd rather spend my time elsewhere.
I have discovered that by the time you buy all the stuff you need, spend an hour or two, make a mistake or two, spill something, overfill something else, buy the wrong part and have to back to the store, can't get the filter off, that's it's much easier to pay someone $100 to do it. Yes I can do it, but I'd rather spend my time elsewhere.
Type of pump!
Tom: The best pump for this job is expensive it is a Par Jabsco. It uses a pump like your fresh water pressure pump. You hook it to the battery or plug it into the lighter. The next best setup (in my opinion) is a "Big Boy Topsiders". It is a self contained container. Looks like a gas can. It allows you pump up the tank which creates a vacuum. You place the tube inside your crack case and release the clip. It takes several minutes and it is done. The only real problem is getting the hose out without dripping it all over the place. Like everyone said, you want warm oil so it flows easily. You want to ONLY use a 'C' rated oil not 'S' rated. 'Cx' rated oils are for Compression (diesel) engines. You want to use either 30 wt. or 15-40 wt. There are a few very good brands which include Shell Rotella, Chevron Delo 400. I use Delo because it seems to be the easiest to find. Since you only use 2 quarts once or twice a year it is not a big deal. Use a Yanmar filter, they only cost a dollar or so more than an aftermarket unit. You should have no problem finding them in San Deigo from a Yanmar shop. Removing the filter is the worst part of this job. Not easy to get to and the oil runs out of the filter when you loosen it. I also recommend that you get a couple of the oil absorb mats to place in the engine bay. If you have one there from you previous change you can change the oil and then dispose of it when you are done. Then leave a clean one in there when you are done. This prevents any oil products from getting into your bilge (including diesel fuel). Helps keep the bilge and the environment clean. It also gives you an idea if you have any leaks. They only cost about a buck. Don't forget to change the oil in the transmission too. I would change this oil AFTER the engine because it will not be black and helps clean up the pump tubes. DO NOT OVER FILL THE TRANS. What you need: Gloves Oil Filter Engine Oil (about 2 qts.) Trans Oil (about .3 liters) Oil Absorb Mats Oil Pump of choice. Now there are a couple of other things that you should consider doing at the same time. Fuel Filters, Raw Water Impeller and Air Filter. Check your belts too.
Tom: The best pump for this job is expensive it is a Par Jabsco. It uses a pump like your fresh water pressure pump. You hook it to the battery or plug it into the lighter. The next best setup (in my opinion) is a "Big Boy Topsiders". It is a self contained container. Looks like a gas can. It allows you pump up the tank which creates a vacuum. You place the tube inside your crack case and release the clip. It takes several minutes and it is done. The only real problem is getting the hose out without dripping it all over the place. Like everyone said, you want warm oil so it flows easily. You want to ONLY use a 'C' rated oil not 'S' rated. 'Cx' rated oils are for Compression (diesel) engines. You want to use either 30 wt. or 15-40 wt. There are a few very good brands which include Shell Rotella, Chevron Delo 400. I use Delo because it seems to be the easiest to find. Since you only use 2 quarts once or twice a year it is not a big deal. Use a Yanmar filter, they only cost a dollar or so more than an aftermarket unit. You should have no problem finding them in San Deigo from a Yanmar shop. Removing the filter is the worst part of this job. Not easy to get to and the oil runs out of the filter when you loosen it. I also recommend that you get a couple of the oil absorb mats to place in the engine bay. If you have one there from you previous change you can change the oil and then dispose of it when you are done. Then leave a clean one in there when you are done. This prevents any oil products from getting into your bilge (including diesel fuel). Helps keep the bilge and the environment clean. It also gives you an idea if you have any leaks. They only cost about a buck. Don't forget to change the oil in the transmission too. I would change this oil AFTER the engine because it will not be black and helps clean up the pump tubes. DO NOT OVER FILL THE TRANS. What you need: Gloves Oil Filter Engine Oil (about 2 qts.) Trans Oil (about .3 liters) Oil Absorb Mats Oil Pump of choice. Now there are a couple of other things that you should consider doing at the same time. Fuel Filters, Raw Water Impeller and Air Filter. Check your belts too.
Oil Filter Oil
Another little detail for the oil changing skipper: After coating the gasket, pour some oil into the filter and rotate it around so it soaks into the filter. Do this until you can hold the filter horizontal and it doesn't run out then screw it on. This way when you start the engine the oil will get to the galeries a little sooner.
Another little detail for the oil changing skipper: After coating the gasket, pour some oil into the filter and rotate it around so it soaks into the filter. Do this until you can hold the filter horizontal and it doesn't run out then screw it on. This way when you start the engine the oil will get to the galeries a little sooner.
Tom when changing the oil on your hunter 31, you don't want to pull an oil plug, it's bad to let the oil drain into the bilge, it leaves a film and could clog the bilge pump. Besides I'm not even sure if the Yanmar 2GMF has an oil plug. What you want to do is run the engine till it's warm so the oil is thin, then drain the oil from the dipstick hole with a pump (you can buy the pump at any marine store, Boat U.S for example), then refill the block from the top.
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