Oil Change
- Thread starter jorgefife
- Start date
- Status
You need a pump that will suck it out through the dip stick tube. There are several that work well and many more that do not work very well.
I prefer the vaccum pumps like the one that is sold at West Marine.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...toreNum=10106&subdeptNum=10434&classNum=10440
There are also ones that use an electric pump that will put the oil into a bucket.
It is best to warm up the engine prior to trying to extract the oil. Thin oil flows much easier than cold oil.
I prefer the vaccum pumps like the one that is sold at West Marine.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...toreNum=10106&subdeptNum=10434&classNum=10440
There are also ones that use an electric pump that will put the oil into a bucket.
It is best to warm up the engine prior to trying to extract the oil. Thin oil flows much easier than cold oil.
I strongly second Steve's recommendation in the use of a vacum pump. It will make the job less messy and easier. With a new filter the capacity is about 2 quarts. I add 1 + 1/4 and check there is oil level at the dipstick. Then I cranck the engine to fill up the the filter and oil lines. I let sit for a minute and then slowly continue to add and check the dipstick until it is just below the maximum level line.
Sure, they talked about the easy part. What about changing the filter? Here's the test. Replace the filter without getting any oil in the pan under the engine. 
I agree with Steve, Benny and Ed. For the oil mess that Ed is referring to, put an aluminum pie plate under where the oil filter is and put an absorbing pad (engine diaper) in the pie plate. Even after pumping "all" of the oil out the dipstick hole, there will be some in the oil filter. At the end of the "floppy" hose that comes from the hand (or electric) pump, add about 10 to 12 inches of copper tubing to reach to the bottom of the oil sump and KNOW when you are there. You can never be sure where the end of the "floppy" hose is. Cut the bottom of the copper tubing at a slight angle so it wont "seal" to the bottom. You can be sure of getting most all of the oil out this way, except the small amount that is still in the filter.
Navigator is right of course, about catching the oil from the filter. I have had them be on so tight that I had to drive a big screwdriver through the filter to loosen it. I do carry one of those strap wrenches for the normally tightened filter.
If you purchase the one in Steve's link you won't need any copper tubing. It comes with very rigid tubing in two sizes. I have the tall one because the old "QM" engines contain almost seven quarts. Now with my 3YM30 I could use the smaller one.
If you purchase the one in Steve's link you won't need any copper tubing. It comes with very rigid tubing in two sizes. I have the tall one because the old "QM" engines contain almost seven quarts. Now with my 3YM30 I could use the smaller one.
Oil filter change
Place a container under the oil filter then pierce the oil filter with a screwdriver vertically through the top all the way through the bottom as close to the end of the filter as possible. The oil will drain out in a few minutes and minimizes oil spillage when unscrewing the filter.
Place a container under the oil filter then pierce the oil filter with a screwdriver vertically through the top all the way through the bottom as close to the end of the filter as possible. The oil will drain out in a few minutes and minimizes oil spillage when unscrewing the filter.
If you change your filter with every oil change, lubricate the seal and hand tighten you should have no problems removing it with a normal filter wrench. Yanmar filters are pretty small and don't retain that much oil unlike the one I had to pry off a 1972 Chrysler which seemed to hold a quart of oil. The screw driver technique really works as well as the degreaser and sand needed to clean up the mess. I usually keep an absortion pad under the engine which I replace after changing the filter. Keeping a clean pad is the best way for the early detection of any engine fluid leaks.
You good people are scaring me!
I knew it was going to be a job, but I'm glad for all the pointers, or else there would be oil everywhere.
I like the idea of putting a screwdriver through the filter to get all the oild out
I need to get a wrench to pry the filter out; how does it turn?
Should be anti-clock wise to release, right?
I assume west marine will seel the filters...
When I come to Houston for my son's wedding I would be pleased to change the oil and filter and any other fluids for you with my own equipment. Feel free to contact me.
If you use a screw driver to punch a hole in the filter, you can place a baggy around the filter to capture the rest of the dirty oil. I alway put a oil sorb pad in the bilge when I change the filters.
Ed how do you like the 3ym I am putting in it's baby brother on my 30. I have seen some grousing about the fresh water heat exchanger though it seems like only one frequent complainer.Ed Schenck said:
As to changing the oil I always kept a bad under the old engine but it does make sense to keep one under the new I guess.
It's a sweetheart! Small, light, and smooth, it starts within a revolution. On the trip to Florida I plugged about three fuel filters. Coasting in the middle of a channel I changed the Racor, hit the starter, and maybe it took three revolutions. No bleeding is a great feature. Wish it had come with gauges though. I had a complete VDO panel with my 2QM20.
Attachments
Stephen Penny,
That would be much appreciated!
My number is 281- 728- 9035
I will make myself available at any time
I am still in a learning process, but have made great strides in restoring my boat
I even go sailing, but my mentor has been rather busy lately with a house he bought, so I am left at my own device, and that means I have not sailed in a while
Let me know when you come
Jorge Fife
- Status