Just remove the excess oil with your extraction pump. To much oil will cause higher oil pressure which may blow out a weak seal.
Oil Change Problem
- Thread starter Neil McDonald
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Too much oil can also cause the oil to foam and prevent it from lubricating properly. It really depends on how much excess oil you put in.
Fill and check
Did'nt you pour, check, pour, and check until oil reached the mark on the dip stick?
Don't use flexible tube, it may curl up inside and not pump out the bottom of the sump. If you want a curved tube, go get a bicycle brake cable and pull out the center wire. It has enough flex for curve area but stay rigid enough to reach the bottom.
Did'nt you pour, check, pour, and check until oil reached the mark on the dip stick?
Don't use flexible tube, it may curl up inside and not pump out the bottom of the sump. If you want a curved tube, go get a bicycle brake cable and pull out the center wire. It has enough flex for curve area but stay rigid enough to reach the bottom.
Depends on your definition of "SOOOO easy". With the limited clearances on my H35, I suspect that I would, at the very least, have to disconnect and lift the engine in order to access the sump pan. Based on my auto engine experience, I would then find that it was challenging to fully reseal this pan and I would then also have a perpetual oil leak to deal with. Maybe Yanmars are different!:naughty:Just put in a simple drain plug or petcock and be done with it, it's SOOOO easy.
dran plugs, pans and pumps
An enterprising person would just install a drain plug, drain the oil into the engine sump and then pump it out.
while it does make a mess in the engine sump it is not much different than the mess the pump makes when I suck through the dip stick.
the benefits are all the oil is assured to come out, you can get it out hot if that is important to you, and the clean up is in an already dirty place so you don't have to have a religious experience doing it.
And no I don't let the engine sump drain into the boat bilges.
An enterprising person would just install a drain plug, drain the oil into the engine sump and then pump it out.
while it does make a mess in the engine sump it is not much different than the mess the pump makes when I suck through the dip stick.
the benefits are all the oil is assured to come out, you can get it out hot if that is important to you, and the clean up is in an already dirty place so you don't have to have a religious experience doing it.
And no I don't let the engine sump drain into the boat bilges.
Bill you are exactly right
But you can slide a disposable aluminum roasting pan under the engine to catch all the oil with no mess whatsoever. I then slide out the pan and pour off the oil. At the very least you could leave the pan there and pump it out instead. In so doing, all the oil is removed from the engine while it is hot and flowing easily.
The big benefit of draining the oil is that it removes all the sludge and heavy particulates that suction extraction never gets. Add to it the ease of changing the oil this way and the no mess and its just a no brainer.
But you can slide a disposable aluminum roasting pan under the engine to catch all the oil with no mess whatsoever. I then slide out the pan and pour off the oil. At the very least you could leave the pan there and pump it out instead. In so doing, all the oil is removed from the engine while it is hot and flowing easily.
The big benefit of draining the oil is that it removes all the sludge and heavy particulates that suction extraction never gets. Add to it the ease of changing the oil this way and the no mess and its just a no brainer.
Solved It
Everyone knows that the engine first needs to be warm (not hot) in order to allow the oil to flow freely. If you use any device that sucks oil out through the dipstick hole, the tube need to be as large in diameter and as short as possible to reduce friction, increase the flow rate and thus reduce the extraction time & effort.
The largest tube that will fit in this hole is 5/16" outside diameter. The best tubing for this purpose is steel brake line from an auto parts store. Buy a 15-18" piece and then simply cut off the swaged fittings from each end. It is important to know that a straight piece of tubing will hit the the top of the oil pickup assembly and will not reach down to the bottom of the sump! Hand bend this tube slightly and the tube will then slip by the oil pickup assembly and drop several inches further down to the sump bottom - where all of the oil can then be extracted.
Use a large plastic sandwich bag to remove the filter and catch spilled oil once the filter has been loosened.
For a H35 with a brand new filter (no oil in it) on the Yanmar 3GM30, the engine will take exactly 2.6 litres (approx 2.75 US quarts) to fill it to the correct level on the dipstick.
Overfilling is bad because it can cause oil to froth when the crank arm thrashes through the elevated oil bath in the sump. Frothy oil does not lubricate bearings very well and can cause major engine damage.:naughty:
Over and out!
Threads like this often die quietly without any attempt at closure by the original poster. Having now solved all of these problems (I hope) I thought that I would record what I have learned about optimum oil changing on a Yanmar 3GM30.
Everyone knows that the engine first needs to be warm (not hot) in order to allow the oil to flow freely. If you use any device that sucks oil out through the dipstick hole, the tube need to be as large in diameter and as short as possible to reduce friction, increase the flow rate and thus reduce the extraction time & effort.
The largest tube that will fit in this hole is 5/16" outside diameter. The best tubing for this purpose is steel brake line from an auto parts store. Buy a 15-18" piece and then simply cut off the swaged fittings from each end. It is important to know that a straight piece of tubing will hit the the top of the oil pickup assembly and will not reach down to the bottom of the sump! Hand bend this tube slightly and the tube will then slip by the oil pickup assembly and drop several inches further down to the sump bottom - where all of the oil can then be extracted.
Use a large plastic sandwich bag to remove the filter and catch spilled oil once the filter has been loosened.
For a H35 with a brand new filter (no oil in it) on the Yanmar 3GM30, the engine will take exactly 2.6 litres (approx 2.75 US quarts) to fill it to the correct level on the dipstick.
Overfilling is bad because it can cause oil to froth when the crank arm thrashes through the elevated oil bath in the sump. Frothy oil does not lubricate bearings very well and can cause major engine damage.:naughty:
Over and out!
Changed oil Yesterday
I did my oil change yesterday on my 2007 3YM30 and when at the boat I find out no pickup plastic tubing,some how I lost it or misplaced it.
I have the 12 Volt on 5 gallon plastic can from West Marine,I went to Home Depot and got the two three different sizes of tubing and think it was 1/4 tubing that went into dip stick.
Get the oil nice and hot and out it all comes out so easy,I added I think 3 1/2 maybe even 4 guarts,I check and check each time I add oil until it is at the mark.
I would love to put a drain into the pan but it's not so easy as it sounds,in my old hot rod days sure piece of cake but now I just never get to really do it and I have the 12 volt sucker and it works so good,I was going to change the 5 gallon can to some thing smaller but never did,it even has reverse to empty into a old plastic jug.
West Marine has nice new low smaller jug 12 volt sucker,but I am sure it is pricey but I think well worth it to do a nice easy oil change,I think you can even use it for other things like tranny and fuel extraction too.
Nick
I did my oil change yesterday on my 2007 3YM30 and when at the boat I find out no pickup plastic tubing,some how I lost it or misplaced it.
I have the 12 Volt on 5 gallon plastic can from West Marine,I went to Home Depot and got the two three different sizes of tubing and think it was 1/4 tubing that went into dip stick.
Get the oil nice and hot and out it all comes out so easy,I added I think 3 1/2 maybe even 4 guarts,I check and check each time I add oil until it is at the mark.
I would love to put a drain into the pan but it's not so easy as it sounds,in my old hot rod days sure piece of cake but now I just never get to really do it and I have the 12 volt sucker and it works so good,I was going to change the 5 gallon can to some thing smaller but never did,it even has reverse to empty into a old plastic jug.
West Marine has nice new low smaller jug 12 volt sucker,but I am sure it is pricey but I think well worth it to do a nice easy oil change,I think you can even use it for other things like tranny and fuel extraction too.
Nick
We use a Moeller Oil Extractor. It typicall can drain 3 qts. of oil from the crankcase in 10-15 mins. Warm up the engine, pump it up and let HER do the work. Moeller does NOT use soft vinyl which has a tendancy to collapse the place in warm/hot fuild. They use a semi rigid plactic material (the provide a couple of different tubes). These units can be purchased for about $65 or less if you shop around. We sometimes do 2 or 3 boats without draining the tank.
Photo courtesy of Jamestown Distributors
Photo courtesy of Jamestown Distributors
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