I am novice and I am operating under the assumption there are no stupid questions. On my Diesel engine, I am preparing to change the oil. Nowhere can I find the amount of oil that the engine takes (three quarts or four quarts or what). Direction would be helpful. Second, I am low on coolant. Before adding additional coolant, should I remove the reamining old coolant from the coolant container mounted above the engine particularly if I switch brands? Third, when checking the marine gear fluid (oil) I cannot determine where the full indicator line is. There is a mark on the bottom of the dipstick, is that the full line? How often does that require additional fluid (normally) with normal or average use. Any info on this would be helpful. Thanks Jim
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Need engine type first.
Jim: It would be helpful (and necessary) to know which engine make and model you have before anyone gives you BAD info!
Jim: It would be helpful (and necessary) to know which engine make and model you have before anyone gives you BAD info!
M
Miles
Fun with Diesels...
Hi Jim, You don't say what engine you have but I'd guess it's a Yanmar 3GM30F? You can get a shop manual for it from the link below, it's very handy to have. In any case: 1. It probably takes around 3 quarts but since you can't always get all the old oil out be sure to add a little at a time until it gets up to the full mark on the dipstick, don't just dump in 3 quarts and hope ;.) 2. The coolant container you're talking about is an overflow tank, it should be about half full when the engine is cool, more when it's hot. You can add more to it with no need to drain the old. 3. Yup, that little line at the end of the transmission dipstick is in fact the full mark. It does seem a little wierd that it's so close to the end but that's the way they made it... Other hints: Run engine first to get oil nice and warm, an "Oil Boy" suction pump works great for getting the oil out. Change filter too. Don't forget to have a nice cold beer when you're done!
Hi Jim, You don't say what engine you have but I'd guess it's a Yanmar 3GM30F? You can get a shop manual for it from the link below, it's very handy to have. In any case: 1. It probably takes around 3 quarts but since you can't always get all the old oil out be sure to add a little at a time until it gets up to the full mark on the dipstick, don't just dump in 3 quarts and hope ;.) 2. The coolant container you're talking about is an overflow tank, it should be about half full when the engine is cool, more when it's hot. You can add more to it with no need to drain the old. 3. Yup, that little line at the end of the transmission dipstick is in fact the full mark. It does seem a little wierd that it's so close to the end but that's the way they made it... Other hints: Run engine first to get oil nice and warm, an "Oil Boy" suction pump works great for getting the oil out. Change filter too. Don't forget to have a nice cold beer when you're done!
B
Bob
Diesel Type
If it's a 2000 or 2001 320, it's a 2GM20F (18HP). That's what ours is on our 2000 320. The owners manual will explain all. Yes it is hard on the Marine Gear Fluid. That little line is the full mark. Doesn't seem like much does it. For oil amounts, it should be listed in the blue Yanmar book that came with your boat.
If it's a 2000 or 2001 320, it's a 2GM20F (18HP). That's what ours is on our 2000 320. The owners manual will explain all. Yes it is hard on the Marine Gear Fluid. That little line is the full mark. Doesn't seem like much does it. For oil amounts, it should be listed in the blue Yanmar book that came with your boat.
If it's the 2GM20F!
Jim: If it is in fact the 2GM20F it is 2.7L or about 2 qts of engine oil. The transmission is about .5 qts. The transmission should NEVER need oil. If it does you have a leak. If you want to drain the coolant from the recovery tank, you need to drain the entire system. You can just add a similar product with a 50/50 mixture of water/antifreeze to top it off for the season. Be sure that when you lay the boat up for the season that the coolant is checked for the freezing level. If you are going to change coolant types you should be using Havoline Extended Life.
Jim: If it is in fact the 2GM20F it is 2.7L or about 2 qts of engine oil. The transmission is about .5 qts. The transmission should NEVER need oil. If it does you have a leak. If you want to drain the coolant from the recovery tank, you need to drain the entire system. You can just add a similar product with a 50/50 mixture of water/antifreeze to top it off for the season. Be sure that when you lay the boat up for the season that the coolant is checked for the freezing level. If you are going to change coolant types you should be using Havoline Extended Life.
J
julian
Coolant
Coolant is different from antifreeze. Coolant, which is not diluted with water,is the same for any modern car engine. ( I use a Peugeot product mainly because its the same colour). Check all connections in the system, I still have a small leak 18 months from new.
Coolant is different from antifreeze. Coolant, which is not diluted with water,is the same for any modern car engine. ( I use a Peugeot product mainly because its the same colour). Check all connections in the system, I still have a small leak 18 months from new.
Julian, I not sure what you are trying to say?
Julian: I am not sure what you are trying to say here. When you use antifreeze in an auto or marine engine, you should not use it straight (ie: 100% mixture). It is normally mixed in a 50/50 solution with water. Antifreeze has two main purposes. First and obvious, it keeps the water in the engine from freezing. Second, it help prevent corrosion and help lubricate the pump. The only reason it have a 100% solution is if the temperature is below 40 degrees below zero or something like that. Pure antifreeze will NOT cool your engine as well as a mixture of 50/50. If I'm off track here anyone is welcome to correct me!
Julian: I am not sure what you are trying to say here. When you use antifreeze in an auto or marine engine, you should not use it straight (ie: 100% mixture). It is normally mixed in a 50/50 solution with water. Antifreeze has two main purposes. First and obvious, it keeps the water in the engine from freezing. Second, it help prevent corrosion and help lubricate the pump. The only reason it have a 100% solution is if the temperature is below 40 degrees below zero or something like that. Pure antifreeze will NOT cool your engine as well as a mixture of 50/50. If I'm off track here anyone is welcome to correct me!
B
Bob
Semantics
I believe that Julian is outside of the US and there may indeed be a difference between coolant and antifreeze in his part of the country. ??????
I believe that Julian is outside of the US and there may indeed be a difference between coolant and antifreeze in his part of the country. ??????
S
Sam Lust
Fluids - How I love them!
Julien is obviously from some furrin place where they use funny words for things and think French cars and English for that matter are neat. Steve is essentialy correct except that pure antifreeze direct from the can, freezes at a higher temperature than when mixed with water. (I used to know why but can't remember any more.) As I recall the maximum the manufacturers recommend is up to about a 70/30 mix antifreeze/water.
Julien is obviously from some furrin place where they use funny words for things and think French cars and English for that matter are neat. Steve is essentialy correct except that pure antifreeze direct from the can, freezes at a higher temperature than when mixed with water. (I used to know why but can't remember any more.) As I recall the maximum the manufacturers recommend is up to about a 70/30 mix antifreeze/water.
It's 50/50 mixture!
This was retrieved from a generic anti-freeze mfg. "Anti-Freeze Anti-Boil Coolant DESCRIPTION Anti-Freeze Anti-Boil Coolant is a premium performance, environmentally sensitive, ethylene glycol based coolant, anti-freeze and corrosion inhibitor for use in all automotive cooling systems. When mixed at 50% by volume with water, Anti-Freeze Anti-Boil Coolant increases the boiling point, lowers the freezing point and provides long term protection of the cooling system against corrosion of all cooling system materials. RECOMMENDED FOR Anti-Freeze Anti-Boil Coolant is recommended for use in the cooling systems of: Passenger car petrol and diesel engines. Light duty commercial vehicle petrol and diesel engines. Heavy duty diesel engines with wet or dry liners, in both on and off highway service. Heavy duty diesel and petrol engines fitted to agricultural and construction equipment. Anti-Freeze Anti-Boil Coolant is suitable for use in cast iron or aluminium engines or those using alloy materials. It is recommended in particular for those engines where the manufacturer specifies the use of "Permanent Type" (PT) or ethylene glycol inhibitors for the cooling system. It is especially useful in preventing erosion corrosion damage to wet cylinder liners and alloy components such as water pumps. It should be used in the proportions recommended by the engine manufacturer when specified. For optimum year round protection, a solution of 50% by volume in water is recommended. It should not be used in concentrations greater than 67% or less than 35%. The increases in freezing protection and boiling point for various concentrations of Anti-Freeze Anti-Boil Coolant are shown in the following table: A/F%-------------Protection----Inc Boilover% 60%.................-51°C...........10°C 50%.................-37°C...........8°C 40%.................-24°C...........5°C 35%.................-20°C...........4°C Use only soft or demineralised water for preparing the coolant. Tank water is also suitable." Sam, you may be refering to premixed solutions. These number are consistent +/- from one product to the next.
This was retrieved from a generic anti-freeze mfg. "Anti-Freeze Anti-Boil Coolant DESCRIPTION Anti-Freeze Anti-Boil Coolant is a premium performance, environmentally sensitive, ethylene glycol based coolant, anti-freeze and corrosion inhibitor for use in all automotive cooling systems. When mixed at 50% by volume with water, Anti-Freeze Anti-Boil Coolant increases the boiling point, lowers the freezing point and provides long term protection of the cooling system against corrosion of all cooling system materials. RECOMMENDED FOR Anti-Freeze Anti-Boil Coolant is recommended for use in the cooling systems of: Passenger car petrol and diesel engines. Light duty commercial vehicle petrol and diesel engines. Heavy duty diesel engines with wet or dry liners, in both on and off highway service. Heavy duty diesel and petrol engines fitted to agricultural and construction equipment. Anti-Freeze Anti-Boil Coolant is suitable for use in cast iron or aluminium engines or those using alloy materials. It is recommended in particular for those engines where the manufacturer specifies the use of "Permanent Type" (PT) or ethylene glycol inhibitors for the cooling system. It is especially useful in preventing erosion corrosion damage to wet cylinder liners and alloy components such as water pumps. It should be used in the proportions recommended by the engine manufacturer when specified. For optimum year round protection, a solution of 50% by volume in water is recommended. It should not be used in concentrations greater than 67% or less than 35%. The increases in freezing protection and boiling point for various concentrations of Anti-Freeze Anti-Boil Coolant are shown in the following table: A/F%-------------Protection----Inc Boilover% 60%.................-51°C...........10°C 50%.................-37°C...........8°C 40%.................-24°C...........5°C 35%.................-20°C...........4°C Use only soft or demineralised water for preparing the coolant. Tank water is also suitable." Sam, you may be refering to premixed solutions. These number are consistent +/- from one product to the next.
J
julian
Reply to Steve
Steve, Over here in UK we have glycol or other antifreeze, and also coolant which is used in modern systems. This is the bright yellow or sometimes red fluid sold in smaller bottles than antifreeze which is typically blue and meant to be diluted with water for typical temps you may encounter. I was warned by my Yanmar dealer never to mix the 2, so I now keep a bottle of coolant just for the boat. Hope this clarifies.
Steve, Over here in UK we have glycol or other antifreeze, and also coolant which is used in modern systems. This is the bright yellow or sometimes red fluid sold in smaller bottles than antifreeze which is typically blue and meant to be diluted with water for typical temps you may encounter. I was warned by my Yanmar dealer never to mix the 2, so I now keep a bottle of coolant just for the boat. Hope this clarifies.
J
julian
Reply to Sam
Calling from beautiful N Ireland, sharing the same Gulf stream as you guys, so talk of -40 is irrelevant until GW makes the polar icecaps disappear and we have the same winters as some parts of US. German cars are best, as is English English!
Calling from beautiful N Ireland, sharing the same Gulf stream as you guys, so talk of -40 is irrelevant until GW makes the polar icecaps disappear and we have the same winters as some parts of US. German cars are best, as is English English!
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