Took my boat out for about the eighth time this season. Put it on the trailer as I've done in the past, but this time I had a little chunk out of my bow about a foot below the waterline. There was a mark on the white piece atop the trailer cross piece just aft of the front roller. Could that have been the culprit? Has anyone made any trailer alterations to accommodate the bow better? Wasn't going that fast. Boat stopped about a foot short of the winch. Trailer was a little deaper than I normally had it. Any suggestions?
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Ray Bowles
Dick, You lost me in your description of the
trailer and cross piece. What year is your 26 and year of the trailer? Is it a Hunter trailer and is it a bunk type or roller type of boat support on your trailer? Also, did you pull the boat onto the trailer with a bow rope, and, was it with the ballast tank wet or dry? I know this sounds like 20 questions but something is very wrong. This type of accident shouldn't happen at all. The main thing that needs to be done is to dry out the area that was damaged very, very well. If the damaged area goes into the structural network of the bow leading edge then you might want to have the insurance company look at it. If it is only cosmetic then any boat repair facility can tell you how to repair it yourself. Do plan to pay these people their hourly rate for this conversation. It will save you money in the end if you can repair it yourself. The main thing is that as you read this loooong answer, your heat lamp was drying out the damaged area. Ray S/V Speedy 95 H 26
trailer and cross piece. What year is your 26 and year of the trailer? Is it a Hunter trailer and is it a bunk type or roller type of boat support on your trailer? Also, did you pull the boat onto the trailer with a bow rope, and, was it with the ballast tank wet or dry? I know this sounds like 20 questions but something is very wrong. This type of accident shouldn't happen at all. The main thing that needs to be done is to dry out the area that was damaged very, very well. If the damaged area goes into the structural network of the bow leading edge then you might want to have the insurance company look at it. If it is only cosmetic then any boat repair facility can tell you how to repair it yourself. Do plan to pay these people their hourly rate for this conversation. It will save you money in the end if you can repair it yourself. The main thing is that as you read this loooong answer, your heat lamp was drying out the damaged area. Ray S/V Speedy 95 H 26
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Dick
Ray,
Boat and trailer are Hunter "97". Trailer is bunk type. There is a roller in the center of the cross member closest to the winch pedestal, but when boat sits properly on the bunkers the roller is a foot below the bow. Ballast tanks would have been wet since I was returning from sailing. Bunkers and all up to just short of the base of the winch pedestal were below the water. The previous times I have mored slowly on to the trailer. I was the only one on board. Winched the boat the last foot to 18" as I have had to do in the past. Damage appears to be slightly to the side. Seems to be a metal strip down the front edge of the bow that doesn't even have a dent. Hope that answers some of the questions. We'll miss you when you find that boat your looking for and sail off into the sunset.
Boat and trailer are Hunter "97". Trailer is bunk type. There is a roller in the center of the cross member closest to the winch pedestal, but when boat sits properly on the bunkers the roller is a foot below the bow. Ballast tanks would have been wet since I was returning from sailing. Bunkers and all up to just short of the base of the winch pedestal were below the water. The previous times I have mored slowly on to the trailer. I was the only one on board. Winched the boat the last foot to 18" as I have had to do in the past. Damage appears to be slightly to the side. Seems to be a metal strip down the front edge of the bow that doesn't even have a dent. Hope that answers some of the questions. We'll miss you when you find that boat your looking for and sail off into the sunset.
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Ray Bowles
Dick, It sounds like the bracket that supports
roller might have taken the chunk out. Look at the roller mounting brackets and see if they have a square side and top that is drilled for the roller axle to be mounted in. Do these side brackets have those edges that rise above the roller or to the same heigth? If so then grind them down with a 4" welding grinder so this doesn't happen again. You didn't mention any structural damage to the bow in your last post. If this is true and it's only gel coat then buy some gel coat repair material. It comes in small tubes and repair the gouge. You might want to epoxy over it to totally seal it up but the gelcoat repair is probably enough. If it is structural then go to the repair shop by way of the insurance co. Ray S/V Speedy PS. Do you know how looooooong they can drag out a house closing? I think I'm learning. We'll post back on our adventure.
roller might have taken the chunk out. Look at the roller mounting brackets and see if they have a square side and top that is drilled for the roller axle to be mounted in. Do these side brackets have those edges that rise above the roller or to the same heigth? If so then grind them down with a 4" welding grinder so this doesn't happen again. You didn't mention any structural damage to the bow in your last post. If this is true and it's only gel coat then buy some gel coat repair material. It comes in small tubes and repair the gouge. You might want to epoxy over it to totally seal it up but the gelcoat repair is probably enough. If it is structural then go to the repair shop by way of the insurance co. Ray S/V Speedy PS. Do you know how looooooong they can drag out a house closing? I think I'm learning. We'll post back on our adventure.
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Mark
Hello Dick
It may be of interest for you that out trailer was made here in Western Australia for our new 260. After the first lasunch we left her in the water and took the trailer home and went over it with a fine tooth comb. We identified every possible part of the trailer that might come in contact with the hull during launching and retrieval. On every one of these points we bolted pieces of the boat trailer plastic stuff. However having done this we are very very carefull that we do not use ramps that are too steep for the bow will touch the front of the trailer when loading. The flatter the ramp the better we find. Hope this helps. Regards Mark
It may be of interest for you that out trailer was made here in Western Australia for our new 260. After the first lasunch we left her in the water and took the trailer home and went over it with a fine tooth comb. We identified every possible part of the trailer that might come in contact with the hull during launching and retrieval. On every one of these points we bolted pieces of the boat trailer plastic stuff. However having done this we are very very carefull that we do not use ramps that are too steep for the bow will touch the front of the trailer when loading. The flatter the ramp the better we find. Hope this helps. Regards Mark
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Mike
Try some end caps
I have a 240 which I gouged the first time I retreived it - you only have to be off-center a little bit. The fix was a longer shaft with a rubber cap on each end. Both parts from Cabela's (p. 74 of their marine catalog) for $10.00 total. I have had no problem since.
I have a 240 which I gouged the first time I retreived it - you only have to be off-center a little bit. The fix was a longer shaft with a rubber cap on each end. Both parts from Cabela's (p. 74 of their marine catalog) for $10.00 total. I have had no problem since.
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