Don Street has an interesting suggestion in this month's Cruising World for an off the wind genoa sheeting alternative. He comments that unless you can move the genoa leads outboard off the wind, you choke off air flow to the genoa when you ease the mainsheet. His alternative arrangement is to use a genoa sheet run through a block near the aft end of the main boom, through a second block near the rail and then back to the winch. This permits the clew of the genoa to move outboard with the boom and draw nicely sailing off the wind. This makes a great deal of sense to me at least in theory. Is anybody doing this? How well does it work? Gary Wyngarden S/V Shibumi H335
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We found on a couple of boats recently that the
tracks for the genoa seem to be in too tight to the centerline ... But the one that really suprised us was on a Beneteau Lagoon Catamaran ... we ended up running the jib sheets to the aft blocks for the spinnaker and that really made a difference. We also found that same approach of running the genoa sheets to the aft spinnaker blocks worked on a C+C36. It just seems to make a better shape on a broad and beam reach ... and it also makes a better wing on wing down wind. But maybe this is something we all were supposed to know about years ago and no one ever mentioned it to us? The only problem however is that you now have both sheets on one side of the boat as you make the change over ... I don't think we would want to do this in a race situation ... but for one of those 20 mile tacks ... Vic "seven"
tracks for the genoa seem to be in too tight to the centerline ... But the one that really suprised us was on a Beneteau Lagoon Catamaran ... we ended up running the jib sheets to the aft blocks for the spinnaker and that really made a difference. We also found that same approach of running the genoa sheets to the aft spinnaker blocks worked on a C+C36. It just seems to make a better shape on a broad and beam reach ... and it also makes a better wing on wing down wind. But maybe this is something we all were supposed to know about years ago and no one ever mentioned it to us? The only problem however is that you now have both sheets on one side of the boat as you make the change over ... I don't think we would want to do this in a race situation ... but for one of those 20 mile tacks ... Vic "seven"
Don't like it
Sailing rigs need to be loaded the way their designers expected them to be loaded -- and I doubt that they expected THIS. OK in light winds, but I would really worry about a gust placing unanticipated loads on the rig... Boat/US points out that a surprisingly large fraction of dismastings occur in winds of only 10-15 kts... when the rig is disproportionately loaded (i.e., sailing with the jib only). Nevertheless, I will probably try this next time I'm on a run in light air, boiling in summer heat, and slightly bored...
Sailing rigs need to be loaded the way their designers expected them to be loaded -- and I doubt that they expected THIS. OK in light winds, but I would really worry about a gust placing unanticipated loads on the rig... Boat/US points out that a surprisingly large fraction of dismastings occur in winds of only 10-15 kts... when the rig is disproportionately loaded (i.e., sailing with the jib only). Nevertheless, I will probably try this next time I'm on a run in light air, boiling in summer heat, and slightly bored...
Spinnaker blocks...
Although I haven't tried it yet, I intend to run my jib sheets to the spinnaker blocks next run downwind. The load on the blocks would certainly be less than the spinnaker, and I'm sure the designer counted on that load. If figured to use the lee sheet prior to the mark to be run into the block, use the "new" lee sheet to balance after the turn, and then reconfigure again at the end of the leg. When racing main-and-jib, you need to try about anything to get the boat going. I was going to give it a try over the weekend, but the prop spun off the shaft and I coundn't leave the dock. Steve
Although I haven't tried it yet, I intend to run my jib sheets to the spinnaker blocks next run downwind. The load on the blocks would certainly be less than the spinnaker, and I'm sure the designer counted on that load. If figured to use the lee sheet prior to the mark to be run into the block, use the "new" lee sheet to balance after the turn, and then reconfigure again at the end of the leg. When racing main-and-jib, you need to try about anything to get the boat going. I was going to give it a try over the weekend, but the prop spun off the shaft and I coundn't leave the dock. Steve
Recommend Snap Shackles on Toe Rail
First let me say that I totally agree with Bryan's comments with regard to not using the boom as an attach point for jib sheets. For example, if one looks at some of the newer Hunter rigs you'll see they have braces near the gooseneck. These are there because they're needed to counter the forces generated. Adding additional sheet loads from the jib to the boom will only excaserbate the bad loading situation in this area. On our boat we use Nicro-Fico snatch blocks on the toe rail whenever the jib needs to be sheeted out. This is really effective to open the slot and the boat performs much better. To protect the aluminum toe rail I use Wichard pad eyes. With regard to the spinnaker turning blocks, I guess they could be used but this requires a much longer jib sheet and the sheeting angle in the vertical plane isn't as good as it should be. For boats without a perforated toe rail this may be the only alternative. Proper sail trim is what it's all about - a tenth here, couple tenths there, and before you know it the boat is really moving along! John Nantz, H-35
First let me say that I totally agree with Bryan's comments with regard to not using the boom as an attach point for jib sheets. For example, if one looks at some of the newer Hunter rigs you'll see they have braces near the gooseneck. These are there because they're needed to counter the forces generated. Adding additional sheet loads from the jib to the boom will only excaserbate the bad loading situation in this area. On our boat we use Nicro-Fico snatch blocks on the toe rail whenever the jib needs to be sheeted out. This is really effective to open the slot and the boat performs much better. To protect the aluminum toe rail I use Wichard pad eyes. With regard to the spinnaker turning blocks, I guess they could be used but this requires a much longer jib sheet and the sheeting angle in the vertical plane isn't as good as it should be. For boats without a perforated toe rail this may be the only alternative. Proper sail trim is what it's all about - a tenth here, couple tenths there, and before you know it the boat is really moving along! John Nantz, H-35
Re: attachment of blocks to the toe rail ...
Years ago I had a J40 and Jboats made it definitely clear that under no circumstances should the spinnaker blocks be attached to the toe rail ... but then again the spinnaker on the 40 was a monster. But now that I am reminded of it ... we did use snatch blocks to toe rail on the C&C36 ... but the wind was under 15. But they certainly looked strong enough. Vic "Seven"
Years ago I had a J40 and Jboats made it definitely clear that under no circumstances should the spinnaker blocks be attached to the toe rail ... but then again the spinnaker on the 40 was a monster. But now that I am reminded of it ... we did use snatch blocks to toe rail on the C&C36 ... but the wind was under 15. But they certainly looked strong enough. Vic "Seven"
Re using the aft blocks ...
we used it in a race but were sure to move the lazy sheet back to the other side as soon as the working sheet was made. I am interested in hearing the results when you try it wing, beam and broad reach. For some reason in the two cases I have done this the sheet length was OK ... probably because we all seem to make the sheets longer that we actually need to. Vic "Seven"
we used it in a race but were sure to move the lazy sheet back to the other side as soon as the working sheet was made. I am interested in hearing the results when you try it wing, beam and broad reach. For some reason in the two cases I have done this the sheet length was OK ... probably because we all seem to make the sheets longer that we actually need to. Vic "Seven"
What about a whisker pole......
...or reaching strut? The pole doesn't have to attach to the mast. A padeye for the pole could be placed anywhere along the deck or rail to accommodate the genoa. In regards to sheeting the genoa through a block on the boom, I have seen that solution in a number of books and articles. It intrigues me. It appears to be predominantly a cruising/daysailing application for light air, where rigging a spinnaker or whisker pole is not desired. Can't see any harm to the rig. It may be a bit comlicated to jibe.
...or reaching strut? The pole doesn't have to attach to the mast. A padeye for the pole could be placed anywhere along the deck or rail to accommodate the genoa. In regards to sheeting the genoa through a block on the boom, I have seen that solution in a number of books and articles. It intrigues me. It appears to be predominantly a cruising/daysailing application for light air, where rigging a spinnaker or whisker pole is not desired. Can't see any harm to the rig. It may be a bit comlicated to jibe.
Off the wind headsail sheeting
For an inexpensive, low tech, but effective, means of adjusting the headsail lead, especially where there are limited track options, you might consider this. 1. Rig a block (forward track block) at the track position that is "close hauled" for the headsail. 2. Rig a block (after track block) at the after end of the track or, instead, use a spinnaker turning block if one is available. 3. Rig a block (running block) to the end of a line the size of the sheet (running block lead). It must be long enough to reach a convenient cleat with sufficient excess to allow for easing. 4. Run this line through the forward track block. 5. Run the sheet first through the running block and then through the after track block (or the spinnaker turning block)and then to the sheet winch. 6. When unfurled, the headsail will be sheeted through the aft track block. 7. When the running block lead is fully eased, the headsail is "downwind". (And still can be poled out.) When the running block lead is fully trimmed so that the forward track block and the running block are touching, the headsail is "close hauled". Most times, you'll want it somewhere in between. Trim or ease the running block lead to produce the best sheeting angle for the boat's heading. 8. Trim or ease the sheet as required. 9. Of course, you need the same setup on both sides. 10. It seems that this was easier to do than to describe. I'd be glad to take e-mail questions directly at sailingbauble@aol.com. I have used this system for a while and it works for me. At times when the strain on the running block lead is too much for me to trim without a winch, I just luff the headsail briefly to lighten the load while I make a needed adjustment. Since I singlehand leisurely and don't race, I don't mind if tacking is a little sloppy.
For an inexpensive, low tech, but effective, means of adjusting the headsail lead, especially where there are limited track options, you might consider this. 1. Rig a block (forward track block) at the track position that is "close hauled" for the headsail. 2. Rig a block (after track block) at the after end of the track or, instead, use a spinnaker turning block if one is available. 3. Rig a block (running block) to the end of a line the size of the sheet (running block lead). It must be long enough to reach a convenient cleat with sufficient excess to allow for easing. 4. Run this line through the forward track block. 5. Run the sheet first through the running block and then through the after track block (or the spinnaker turning block)and then to the sheet winch. 6. When unfurled, the headsail will be sheeted through the aft track block. 7. When the running block lead is fully eased, the headsail is "downwind". (And still can be poled out.) When the running block lead is fully trimmed so that the forward track block and the running block are touching, the headsail is "close hauled". Most times, you'll want it somewhere in between. Trim or ease the running block lead to produce the best sheeting angle for the boat's heading. 8. Trim or ease the sheet as required. 9. Of course, you need the same setup on both sides. 10. It seems that this was easier to do than to describe. I'd be glad to take e-mail questions directly at sailingbauble@aol.com. I have used this system for a while and it works for me. At times when the strain on the running block lead is too much for me to trim without a winch, I just luff the headsail briefly to lighten the load while I make a needed adjustment. Since I singlehand leisurely and don't race, I don't mind if tacking is a little sloppy.
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