Off shore preparation

Don S/V ILLusion · Dec 9, 2019

Any method you chose to lock the deck plates should be based on what weight they would have to restrain in a knockdown. Absent anything heavy, we use flush mount window type locks but our boards are all hinged so it’s pretty simple. Loose boards should be similarly articulated.

PaulK · Dec 9, 2019

What works to lock your floorboards down depends upon how they are built in the first place. Sometimes a sliding bolt can be fitted into the face of the floorboard. Other times a catch hook will work. Some people use quarter-turn fasteners, though finding a tool to lift the floorboards may not be what you want to do if there’s a leak under there at 02h34. A picture would help show us what sort of system might work best for you.

Terry Cox · Dec 9, 2019

Boby_Hunter33 said:
A second forestay for a storm jib. Anybody did that on a H45DS or similar?

Rather than a forestay, consider adding one or two more reef points to your main. And while you are at it, be sure to replace the OEM main with an off shore designed main that will withstand off shore conditions.

Joe · Dec 9, 2019

Installing an inner forestay could be an excellent idea.... but you must consider reinforcing the deck area under the anchor point. A bridge/brace tabbed to each hull beneath the deck is my thought. A set of running backstays may also be in order to counter act the inner forestay's load. Leaving the storm jib hanked on and stowed in a bag... ready to deploy is a handy method. Serious passage makers will have a boom gallows and a separate storm trysail track installed on the mast.... again with the sail easily located for quick deployment. The gallows provides security for the spar when things get rough.

One important thing is to make sure your cockpit scuppers are adequate to drain the area quickly should you get pooped.

jssailem · Dec 10, 2019

The location and installation of a Inner forestay is a marine engineering project. As Joe correctly stated, the structure beneath the deck to tie the attachment point into the hull is critical. Equally is the addition of backstays depending on your mast and how you will be connecting the stay to the mast. Some masts are designed for the attachment, others will need to have a properly reinforced fitting. Why all the reinforcement? Because the reason for the Cutter sail is to use it when the winds are more than the design of the jib. Strong winds, even on a small sail, can overwhelm the attachment points unless they are designed for such stresses.

You will likely be sailing in some trade winds. This usually involves a down wind down wave sail. Such conditions are best set with trimmed sails and a strong preventer on the boom. The design of the preventer is critical as the purpose is to protect the boom, the crew, and the boat. It is not just to prevent the wind from grabbing the sail, but also to stop the sail from gybing when the boom dips into the top of a wave. A failure is not acceptable. I encourage you to look into good design of your preventer for open ocean sailing not your day sail design.

Good luck and sounds exciting.

Pizzazz · Dec 10, 2019

The floor board locks and the cushion locks are minor items. Any solution could make sense or you can just bold them down/tie them up. This will be the smallest problem if you capsized.

The inner stay is not a good idea for the B&G rig that our Hunters have. The mast and the rig is not designed for an inner stay and the loads will be wrong. In fact a back stay is not advisable either. If you want to prepare for strong winds, the best you can do is an offshore main with sufficient number of reefs (two is enough as the main is rather small) and a storm jib that you put on the forestay (most of the time you will not need it and a reefed 110% jib or smaller will do). But if you are expecting winds stronger than 50-60 knots and you want to continue to sail then a storm jib is probably a good idea.

SV Pizzazz (H31)

Benny17441 · Dec 10, 2019

I think it would be more probabble having to get into the floorboards quickly than having to worry about turning turtle.

David in Sandusky · Dec 11, 2019

Pizzazz got it right, except that it’s a B&R rig, not B&G.

vhoisington · Dec 11, 2019

Of all the preparations for an off shore cruise, I could probably come up with a much larger list

Thinking of areas to prepare
- Electronics - Communication, Navigation, weather information are all high on my list
- Storm preparation - storm sails, ground tackle, sea anchors, emergency rudder
- Engine and power - filters, belts, oil, hoses, engine electrical, generator, etc.
- Provisions - water, food, cooking, watermaker, etc.
- Ship condition - chainplates, standing rigging, running rigging, sails

When I look at this list I see a lot of things but have to admit I don't think I've ever thought of floor board lock down as an item. If the boat rolls, everything that is lose will be tossed around and it probably won't matter that a few floor boards come up.

Its a fun adventure and the actual list is never ending so create yours, prioritize it and hope to get 80% done before you shove off.

Fail winds,

sailme88 · Dec 12, 2019

MUSTANG(s), EPIRB, reverse osmosis water maker, sat phone & a RATED life raft...

Will Gilmore · Dec 12, 2019

vhoisington said:
If the boat rolls, everything that is lose will be tossed around and it probably won't matter that a few floor boards come up.

If there are a significant amount of heavy stores underneath, such as tools and canned goods, letting them loose in a knockdown could interfere with a quick recovery, as ballast shifts. Besides, if there is crew below, flying items are a real danger.
Solid Brass 6" Flush-Mount Door Bolt with Round Edges | House of Antique Hardware

-Will (Dragonfly)

Rick D · Dec 12, 2019

I have to take exception regarding the B&G rig and an inner stay. They were factory optional on 450, 456, 49, etc. I have two with them installed on my dock. You may already have an anchor point embedded in the FG. I sugges you pay a couple of dollars and get advice from the Hunter former factory guys on this site.

discovery · Dec 29, 2019

Pizzazz said:
The floor board locks and the cushion locks are minor items. Any solution could make sense or you can just bold them down/tie them up. This will be the smallest problem if you capsized.

The inner stay is not a good idea for the B&G rig that our Hunters have. The mast and the rig is not designed for an inner stay and the loads will be wrong. In fact a back stay is not advisable either. If you want to prepare for strong winds, the best you can do is an offshore main with sufficient number of reefs (two is enough as the main is rather small) and a storm jib that you put on the forestay (most of the time you will not need it and a reefed 110% jib or smaller will do). But if you are expecting winds stronger than 50-60 knots and you want to continue to sail then a storm jib is probably a good idea.

SV Pizzazz (H31)

Interesting , we installed a innerforestay on our 2002 passage 456 with a pro furl furler before we set out cruising 7 years ago, put 15k miles on her so far, mostly in the blue water, circumnavigate the eastern Caribbean 4 times and almost never used the jib always stsysail and reefer main because winds ware consistently in the mid to high 20s . no issues so far with our b and r rig. Boat actually came with diagrams for the install. Seems unlikely that hunter would provide this as option if it were unsafe.

Kings Gambit · Dec 29, 2019

In my readings of reports/narratives involving knock-downs and roll-overs, loose floorboards are hardly mentioned. Maybe everyone secures them in preparation as you plan to do. More often one reads about the stuff “stowed” along the hull flying off, such as pieces of equipment, books, and other loose stuff—even galley items. Hatchboards that come off the slides and disappear; sundry nav station items that fall out when the table top falls open, etc. You also have to remember loose boards under the mattresses, etc., and anything stowed under them. There’s likely a lot that needs to be done to be “roll-over ready.”

I’ve pondered the moment, and investigated options myself. I’ve installed hatch locks on the settee bunks so those hinged tops won't fall open. Also secured the batteries so they can’t fall out, etc. Haven’t yet figured the floor boards in a way that does not create another problem, but some folks have recommended recessed twist locks. Mine are not large or heavy. They cover only a narrow swath of bilge along the centerline; three of ‘em. The other items mentioned would be more of a concern.

Your cockpit lockers can be secured with hasps + lock. Or, there might be a spring-loaded plunger lock for you. They are mounted with the plunger housing inside the locker, and where the plunger comes out through a hole in the locker side aligned with a hole in the locker top and then through that. Push in the plunger in to lift the top. To close just drop the top. The plunger goes in for a moment then back out when it meets the hole in the top. Almost like a through-bolt between the top and the locker side. Very secure.