ill try again. i want to move the traveler on my oday 28 from the cockpit before the companionway to above the hatch, topside. any suggestions on what to use and how to do it?
oday traveler
- Thread starter chuckhrbek
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As long as you have the space for your Mainsheet, I don't see why you can't do it.
Myself, I've had my traveler mounted in front of the companionway and although it can be a pain to step over, I like it better than having the Mainsheet coming off the back stay to the end of the boom.
Years ago when I first made up a support for my traveler, I mocked up something out of cheap pine first. Teak is too pricey to experiment with although most of my Teak came from a marine consignment store at a decent price.
I made my traveler support out of three pieces of wood and I used four long stainless steel hex head bolts to fasten it through the seats on both sides in the cockpit.
After I made a pattern of the curvature of the seat, it was a simple process of using that single pattern to trace out two supports for the beam that supports the track.
The hex heads needed to be countersunk into the top of the beam so that they would not turn, and also for the track to lay flat on the beam. All I did was trace the bolt heads and cut out the wood with a miniature craft chisel.
I mounted the track to the beam in the usual way with nuts and bolts but before I did that, I bored all the holes. Where the bolts come through at the two supports, I countersunk some holes into the supports just long and wide enough for the nuts and bolts that will protrude. This way, the beam sits on the two supports nice and flat.
I used Teak for this project but almost any man made material can be used like for instance, PVC trim board or Trex or a combination of Teak and these two other materials.
A month ago I replaced my Nico Fico traveler with a Harken traveler that I bought off one of the guys on this forum. It was just a matter of removing the old traveler base and boring some new holes for the Harken track.
This time though, I countersunk the existing bolts holes in the fiberglass just slightly, so that the caulking can go into it and make a good seal under each of the mounts. I used 3-M 4200 for it's adhesive qualities. I don't want this thing to move. I used the same plywood backup plates over again.
I would use stainless steel backup plates for your traveler mount though.
It's not a hard project provided that you have a plan and mock it up out of cheap wood first to see if it's going to fly.
Joe
Myself, I've had my traveler mounted in front of the companionway and although it can be a pain to step over, I like it better than having the Mainsheet coming off the back stay to the end of the boom.
Years ago when I first made up a support for my traveler, I mocked up something out of cheap pine first. Teak is too pricey to experiment with although most of my Teak came from a marine consignment store at a decent price.
I made my traveler support out of three pieces of wood and I used four long stainless steel hex head bolts to fasten it through the seats on both sides in the cockpit.
After I made a pattern of the curvature of the seat, it was a simple process of using that single pattern to trace out two supports for the beam that supports the track.
The hex heads needed to be countersunk into the top of the beam so that they would not turn, and also for the track to lay flat on the beam. All I did was trace the bolt heads and cut out the wood with a miniature craft chisel.
I mounted the track to the beam in the usual way with nuts and bolts but before I did that, I bored all the holes. Where the bolts come through at the two supports, I countersunk some holes into the supports just long and wide enough for the nuts and bolts that will protrude. This way, the beam sits on the two supports nice and flat.
I used Teak for this project but almost any man made material can be used like for instance, PVC trim board or Trex or a combination of Teak and these two other materials.
A month ago I replaced my Nico Fico traveler with a Harken traveler that I bought off one of the guys on this forum. It was just a matter of removing the old traveler base and boring some new holes for the Harken track.
This time though, I countersunk the existing bolts holes in the fiberglass just slightly, so that the caulking can go into it and make a good seal under each of the mounts. I used 3-M 4200 for it's adhesive qualities. I don't want this thing to move. I used the same plywood backup plates over again.
I would use stainless steel backup plates for your traveler mount though.
It's not a hard project provided that you have a plan and mock it up out of cheap wood first to see if it's going to fly.
Joe
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Joe, I think he wants it over the companionway?Trinkka said:
I've not seen that done. It will affect the way the main trims. for better or worse? I'm not sure. Imo I think the reason u got no reply initially is it is not something any of us has done, so no one felt confident in giving u a reply.
If it's over the sliding hatch then you'll need a bridge to mount the traveler. They're available from Harken, Schaefer etc. You need to consider the attachment point and the load it puts on the boom since it'll be further forward. Sometimes the the load is spread over two to three points.
thanks rb. yes, i would like to relocate it over the sliding hatch. would that require a new boom?
No Keith. I think That I read it to understand that he wants to mount the traveler on the cabin top over the companionway slider. A friend of mine has his mounted there too on his Columbia sloop.
The same principle that I put forward on how to mount it still applies regardless of where he mounts it.
I think that what he is going to need to do is mount three single sheave blocks under his boom as part of his main sheet. His traveler car sheave block is going to consist of a three sheave fiddle block with a built in cam cleat.
Check out the book "Sail Power" by Wallace Ross for a better understanding of this system.
Traveler location
Chuck,
No you do not need a new boom. But
you probably will need some attaching
hardware.
I have seen several boats with cabin
mounted travelers on a bridge. They
often use both a main sheet connection
and rope vang with multible blocks.
Check the archives, there used to some
pictures.
With such a short mainsheet, you may
not have the adjustments equivalent to
the cockpit mounted traveler. However,
unless you are into racing that should
not be critical.
Garhour(?) or somebody made a bridge
mounted traveler for such an arrangement.
Search the archives and internet.
Remember that you will need to watch your
head on instead of stepping over the traveler.
You might be trading stubbing toes to stitches.
Ed K
Chuck,
No you do not need a new boom. But
you probably will need some attaching
hardware.
I have seen several boats with cabin
mounted travelers on a bridge. They
often use both a main sheet connection
and rope vang with multible blocks.
Check the archives, there used to some
pictures.
With such a short mainsheet, you may
not have the adjustments equivalent to
the cockpit mounted traveler. However,
unless you are into racing that should
not be critical.
Garhour(?) or somebody made a bridge
mounted traveler for such an arrangement.
Search the archives and internet.
Remember that you will need to watch your
head on instead of stepping over the traveler.
You might be trading stubbing toes to stitches.
Ed K
Attachments
I have an Oday 28 (1984) with a factory mounted traveller on the cabin top (Nicro fico). You will need to change the boom sheeting to give you better mechanical advantage sheet will connect near the middle of the boom. Here is a pic of mine before I installed the traveller control ends.
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Question for Skisil - - - - - -
Skisil,
The tubing in the picture - is it for dodger or bimini? Do you have picture with sheets? Do you use a vang?
Ed K
Skisil,
The tubing in the picture - is it for dodger or bimini? Do you have picture with sheets? Do you use a vang?
Ed K
Attachments
Your boom is very similar to mine in that it has a track for the eye straps. It must be a Z-Spar. Also, your traveler is similar to the one I recently had on my boat before I replaced it with the Harken traveler.
Nico Fico makes an adequate traveler. I had mine for many years and it was OK compared to other travelers of that type.
I'm pretty sure that the Nico Fico has a conversion kit available to change it over to ropes and sheaves, so I'm told.
Good idea....you will like it....you will need to elevate it off the deck above
hatch, mine is curved...on the original 272's they used a curved track w/manual stops which is a foolish savings....I wanted to be able to adjust under load so I contacted Nicro and Garhauer and in a couple hours I had an eminently easier to use traveler....you will need to make sure the fiberglass
can stand the loads - use stainless backing plates, you need to make sure you have at least 3 attachment points to the boom and the blocks needed - use harken, you will want blocks on the end for cleating off, and enough line to allow you to use it from the back of the boat if you are singlehandling.
Patrick in Wichita
Yes - the tubing is for the dodger. I don't have a pic that shows the sheeting but will take one over next weekend and post.
The boat is rigged for a boom vang, but I don't use as it restricts opening of the port.
I purchased a set of conversion blocks from garhauer. Just call them up and provide some measurements. My only question after installing them: why the heck did I wait so long!?
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