Oday Ospray project

[athollis]

I have purchased a 15'9" oday ospray sailboat (a shorter version of the daysailer) and could use some help answering some questions.

The first question has to do with trailer setup. I had to purchase a trailer separate and do not know how to set is up for this boat. Currently the bunks are pulled off of the 16-18ft galvanized trailer. It has two center rollers one for the bow and currently one at the stern. I appreciate any input in setting up this trailer for the boat to make launch and retrieval easier. Also, if you have pics that would help too.

Second. I am unsure of the hardware needed for the Job sheets. Originally there was one fairleed and one cam-cleat down each side of the boat, but I think some parts were missing. What seems to work for you that makes single hand sailing easier.

The last question for now has to do with the boom tracker. I am considering changing the triangular tracker on the end of the boom to a mid boom 4:1 using two fiddle blocks. What are your thoughts?

Thanks for your comments...

 

[Barnacle Bill]

Maybe you should supply pictures of the trailer you have as your description leaves questions. Two center rollers. One for the front of the boat and one for the back? Usually you have long bunks port and starboard to support the hull. They can be made out of 2x4's and carpeted. They would run along the hull on each side fore and aft. You should have a bow support with a winch to crank the boat up on the trailer. There, below the winch should be a bow stop. When the boat is loaded aganst the bow stop, you should have no more than about 10% tongue weight of the whole package. Then for the jib sheets (not job sheets), you need to have one fairlead on each side for the sheet to run through and then the sheet is held fast with a cleat. Horn cleats are slow, but jam or clam cleats are not. The position of the jib lead is at a point on the deck so that when you point the boat into the wind, with the jib trimmed in for close hauled sailing, the entire luff of the sail breaks at the same time. In other words, slowly point the boat into the wind so that the headsail luffs. If it luffs on the top half first, the lead is too far back. If it luffs at the bottom half first, the jib lead is too far forward. If the entire luff of the sail breaks (luffs) at the same time, that is the best place for the jib lead. If you want to install tracks, you can do that too and then you have more adjustment, but nailing down the one location will work well for you. The triangle mainsheet you were trying to describe is called a Crosby mainsheet rig. Not very efficient, but easy to use. If you want, you can do a 4:1 mainsheet, but you have to put it in the center of the boat rather than on the outside locations for the Crosby rig.

 

[athollis]

\. Then for the jib sheets (not job sheets), you need to have one fairlead on each side for the sheet to run through and then the sheet is held fast with a cleat. Horn cleats are slow, but jam or clam cleats are not. Not very efficient, but easy to use. If you want, you can do a 4:1 mainsheet, but you have to put it in the center of the boat rather than on the outside locations for the Crosby rig.

Thanks for the info. I see my fat fingers kicked in again. I will try to get some pictures of the trailer up sometime tomorrow.

 

[Brian S]

Most sailboats don't like to rest on the trailer bunks.

My Harpoon should rest with the keel on rollers all the way down the length of the trailer, such that the weight is all supported by the keel. There are something like 4 or 5 trailer cross members, each with a keel roller. The bunks are adjusted just high enough to prevent the boat tipping, but not so high that the bunks support hull weight. You don't want to deform the hull with the bunks supporting boat weight.

Brian