oday 28 Hood Seafurl 800 Furler

Jun 4, 2012
43
Oday 28, 192 Clinton, CT
Don't believe this is original to my boat since manual I have on it is dated 1992. Furler line is perhaps original and seems worn and jams sometimes. I'd like to replace it but not sure what dia and length it should be or how long although I've heard 2x the boat length. Also, does material matter? Anyone done this task and can share their experience?

Thanks,

Steve
 

Apex

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Jun 19, 2013
1,212
C&C 30 Elk Rapids
we have 1/4" line, there is a recent thread on disassemblly of hood furler as well. length of line depends on drum diameter, and size of headsail, where the line terminates.

larger line can be used by de-coring the line for aprox 15ft.
 
Nov 15, 2014
137
Catalina 30T 5830 Green Bay
I have a Catalina 30 (we purchased last spring) with a Hood Seafurl 810. I won't address line diameter other than to say search the web for a manual. It will list the required line diameter, which is probably different for the 800. Also, Marty Barnett at Pompanette (Hood parent company or something like that) (marty_barnett@pompanette.com) may be able to help. I worked with her to get spares for my 810. Anyway, here are some tips:
1) I purchased a new continuous line (spliced) from Mauri Pro Sailing. NER Sta Set. The added charge for the splice was ~$26.
2) I measured the length of the path of the furling line from drum to cleat and added 2'. Then doubled for the finished spliced length of the line. MPS will splice to your finished length. I had also taken off the line I had and measured it. The new one is longer because I wanted a little more line to work with at the cleat. Caveat - I haven't reinstalled in on the boat yet. Maybe this weekend.
3) The jamming may not necessarily be the line. Our boat is 1990. It is a b#£^<tch to furl in any kind of wind (heading into). So hard that I've had to put my feet against the cabin so I can pulled really hard on it. Easily 100 lbs pull. And there was a "hitch" every revolution of the drum. Soooo...
4) I took the whole thing apart this winter. I replaced the bearings in the drive unit. I can explain more about that later if you want. I didn't use the bearings sets I bought from Hood.
5) I found that the bottom sheave is held in place with 4 set "bolts" (you'd need to get replacements from Hood). One was missing, and 2 others were loose. The drum could wobble but I wouldn't have noticed that on the boat. When I replaced/reinstalled I used Loctite, but checking these for tightness will be at least an annual item.
6) Last summer I replaced the fair leads with Schaefer stanchion mount double fairleads. They're nice and did help.
7) Lastly, I learned that if the headstay has too much sag it could make furling more difficult. I never checked the tension in the halyard (in case some slippage occurred through the clutch over the summer). The effort to furl did increase as the summer progressed. I also have an adjustable backstay, so it will be SOP to put additional tension on that prior to furling to minimize headstay sag.

So, here's hoping to much easier furling for us in the future. I did so many changes (improvements?) that I won't be able to pinpoint which mattered the most. However, I think 5) was possibly a big contributor.

Hopes this helps!!
 

Apex

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Jun 19, 2013
1,212
C&C 30 Elk Rapids
George, you must have a continuous line furler? I assumed the OP had an SL (single-line) system.....
 
Nov 15, 2014
137
Catalina 30T 5830 Green Bay
Apex, you are correct. I just checked the Pompanette/Hood website and the 800 is single line. So....in the words of Rosanne Rosannadanna...never mind! ? Can't shozbot just remove the continuos line from the drum and measure it?
 
Jun 4, 2012
43
Oday 28, 192 Clinton, CT
Yes. I have single line and manual says 2x the boat length but gives 2 choices for dia. 5/16 or 3/8?
 
Nov 15, 2014
137
Catalina 30T 5830 Green Bay
Ok - 2x boat length makes sense (Dooohhh! On my part!). I can't help you on the line diameter though.