O'day 25 cockpit drain

[Coty137]

Good day to all,

I had a question on the O’Day 25 cockpit drain. Not the most ingenious design that is. Has anyone though of or modified in anyway shape or form the low point in the cockpit drain slot? It’s an ongoing pain in the butt removing the stagnant water in that slot which runs deeper than the drain itself.

Thank you for your input!

Coty

 

[KMm]

Glass it in till the slot is higher than the drain hole, end of problem. Following winds Sir.

 

[Joe11688]

Good day to all,

I had a question on the O’Day 25 cockpit drain. Not the most ingenious design that is. Has anyone though of or modified in anyway shape or form the low point in the cockpit drain slot? It’s an ongoing pain in the butt removing the stagnant water in that slot which runs deeper than the drain itself.

Thank you for your input!

Coty

Coty,
There shouldn't be any water collecting in the well above the self bailing hose in the cockpit. It's possible that the bend in the hose is pitched too low under the well and the water is trying to run up and out the thru-hull in the transom. On my 1986 O'Day 222, they took a clear reinforced 7/8" ID plastic hose and bent it into an "L" shape to connect to both thru-hull fittings. I guess this is OK provided that the hose doesn't kink, and the pitch of the hose can run down and out through the transom thru-hull connector. I wasn't able to accomplish this with one hose, so I bought a 90 degree nylon "L" connector and used two hoses and four stainless steel hose clamps. The water drains out and doesn't get clogged as bad as it used to. You need to get the pitch right so that the water runs down and out through the transom. Right now, the bend in your cockpit self bailing hose is lower than the transom thru-hull connector.
I didn't have a lot of room to get at my hose from the lazarett opening and I wound up getting stuck in the opening which was pretty scary. I managed to work my way out of that opening. Then I got smart and cut a hole for an 8" Beckson Deck Plate in the center of my inside transom. This not only gave me access to my self bailing hose, but the nuts and bolts for my gudgeons, my electric wiring for my charging system and the stern light. The clear plastic reinforced hose, the nylon "L" connector, and the hose clamps can be bought at Lowe's or Home Depot.
In the picture you can see water stains on the fiberglass at my lower gudgeon which was an apparant leak. I was able to remove both gudgeons all by myself, recaulk them, and reinstall them with the aid of the deck plate. I replaced my charging wire on my outboard a few years ago with a duplex #10 stranded copper wire which run through an old electric outlet plate with the socket removed. Each spring when I mount my outboard, I'm able to use the deck plate to lead this wire into the area near the lazarett opening where I have a small termination strip mounted inside on a bulkhead. The termination strip is located just to the right in that open lazarett. I have a PC mouse pad covering it.
Joe

 

[RichBone]

Good day to all,

I had a question on the O’Day 25 cockpit drain. Not the most ingenious design that is. Has anyone though of or modified in anyway shape or form the low point in the cockpit drain slot? It’s an ongoing pain in the butt removing the stagnant water in that slot which runs deeper than the drain itself.

Thank you for your input!

Coty

I know what you're saying about the drain fitting being higher than the surrounding drain. I have the same problem with water sittinging there and getting scummy. Maybe build up the area around it with caulking?

Rich

 

[Scott On Eagles Wings]

I did the same thing Kamar did. I just poured a small amount of resin in the well to raise the level to the top of the hole. Problem solved.

 

[Johan S.]

On my 1986 O'Day 222, they took a clear reinforced 7/8" ID plastic hose and bent it into an "L" shape to connect to both thru-hull fittings. I guess this is OK provided that the hose doesn't kink, and the pitch of the hose can run down and out through the transom thru-hull connector. I wasn't able to accomplish this with one hose, so I bought a 90 degree nylon "L" connector and used two hoses and four stainless steel hose clamps.

Joe, not sure if you knew, but had you purchased the proper hose this could have been accomplished. Its sold at Marine West.. I forget the name of it, buts it black rubber hose with stainless steel wire thats imbedded and worms its way through the length of hosing.. The wire keeps it from kinking..

 

[Joe11688]

Joe, not sure if you knew, but had you purchased the proper hose this could have been accomplished. Its sold at Marine West.. I forget the name of it, buts it black rubber hose with stainless steel wire thats imbedded and worms its way through the length of hosing.. The wire keeps it from kinking..

Johan,
That's good to know but I would stay away from rubber and opt for the Vinyl hose because a gasoline spill or a leak in the fuel tank can eat out the rubber hose and cause gasoline to drain into the bilge. I know this first hand because it happened to my boat in early March many years ago when I stuck my head under the boat cover in the stern area and smelled strong gasoline fumes. It took a lot of bilge cleaner and months to get rid of that smell. I admit that I left a metal fuel tank in the compartment which I never should have done, but that's neither here nor there. The fact is, I now have a polyetholine tank and I store it in the shed for the winter.
A few guys on the forum have used wire reinforced rubber automotive hoses for the self bailing cockpit drain. Again,--if it's made of rubber, I won't use it. I'm aware that rubber is used for gasoline fuel lines and I'm OK with that, but by the same token I won't leave a fuel line in the fuel compartment during the winter lay up either. I store the fuel line with the tank in my outdoor shed.
Joe

 

[Joe11688]

I know what you're saying about the drain fitting being higher than the surrounding drain. I have the same problem with water sittinging there and getting scummy. Maybe build up the area around it with caulking?

Rich

Rich,
Look at my thru-hull fitting that is coming down from the cockpit sole. It seems to me that if the O'Day company used a shorter fitting, I could have got away with using just the vinyl hose without the 90 degree fitting. Look at all the threads on that fitting. That fitting should have been much shorter. At the time, I thought about removing the fitting and cutting it down and grinding the threads off to accommodate the hose but I chickened out and opted for what I have pictured right now. All I can say is it works and that's the important thing. As a matter of fact, I think that I had asked Rudy about those hoses and he told me to get a clear reinforced hose at any hardware store. The good thing about having the deck plate is; I can open the cover any time and reach down and feel the hose or stick my small shaving mirror under it to see if it's OK.
Joe

 

[RichBone]

Joe, I'd have to lower the thru hull in the transom to do what you did.

Rich

 

[Joe11688]

Joe, I'd have to lower the thru hull in the transom to do what you did.

Rich

Rich,
I wonder if it would be possible to take that cockpit thru-hull fitting out, grind the threads down and cut it shorter. Then reinstall it and use a 90 degree nylon fitting with a short piece of hose and two clamps like I did with the other longer hose going between the 90 and the transom thru-hull? I'd really like to give that a try next spring because I think that my hose could drain a lot faster if I could raise the pitch a little.
Several years ago when I installed my hose the way it is in the picture, it was so simple. I only needed to get the proper measurement of the long hose with the fitting on it, cut to fit. Then I secured the 90 on with the two straps and connected it to the transom outlet. The short hose on the 90 needed to line up and push right over the flange of the cockpit thru-hull. This task was so simple. I took a 3' piece of 2X4 and wedged it under the 90 while using the bilge to pry up on the fitting to push the short hose into the flange. I was able to do this from the lazarett opening. To tighten the clamps you have a choice of either using a screw driver or a socket of the right size from a 1/4" drive set. I found it easier than trying to get a single hose on to those two thru-hull flanges.
So if I think of it next spring, I'm going to try and improve on the pitch of my hose. If I'm able to do it, I'll take some pics of it and post them here.
Joe

 

[RichBone]

Joe, maybe you could find a shorter thru-hull and use a long radius 90. I don't think you could grind enough off of the threads and still use the same size hose. Or use a larger diameter hose to slip over the threads on both thru-hulls

Rich

 

[Coty137]

Thank you for your replies, I guess I will glass it in and solve this annoying issue.

Regards to all

 

[Joe11688]

Joe, maybe you could find a shorter thru-hull and use a long radius 90. I don't think you could grind enough off of the threads and still use the same size hose. Or use a larger diameter hose to slip over the threads on both thru-hulls

Rich

Rich,
I think that you're probably right. A shorter thr-hull would work for me. Maybe I'll take a ride down to Rudy's store and see what he has. He bought out all the sailboat hardware at the Alden Yachts warehouse in Portsmouth RI last year. So he has a larger selection of stuff now. I'll check on the long radius 90 too. I didn't quite get what you were saying about glassing it in before until now. I'm not having that problem. My cockpit thru-hull is smaller than yours. Maybe that's why.

Joe

 

[RichBone]

Thank you for your replies, I guess I will glass it in and solve this annoying issue.

Regards to all

If you glass it in you will have trouble replacing the fitting or fixing any leaks that might develop.

Rich

 

[Joe11688]

You're right Rich. I wouldn't glass it in. I would just dump a bucket of water in it and clean it once in a while. That area including the inner transom can get really dirty, but a "Mr. Clean Magic Eraser" can make that whole area sparkling clean again.

 

[emergpa1]

You're right Rich. I wouldn't glass it in. I would just dump a bucket of water in it and clean it once in a while. That area including the inner transom can get really dirty, but a "Mr. Clean Magic Eraser" can make that whole area sparkling clean again.

yep, just keep a little bleach in a spray bottle with water, and spray it in there from time to time. should stay fresh as a daisy.

I have to to that with both my sinks in the boat. Seems to work ok.
keith

 

[Shoaldrafter]

Rich,
I wonder if it would be possible to take that cockpit thru-hull fitting out, grind the threads down and cut it shorter. Then reinstall it and use a 90 degree nylon fitting with a short piece of hose and two clamps like I did with the other longer hose going between the 90 and the transom thru-hull? I'd really like to give that a try next spring because I think that my hose could drain a lot faster if I could raise the pitch a little.
Several years ago when I installed my hose the way it is in the picture, it was so simple. I only needed to get the proper measurement of the long hose with the fitting on it, cut to fit. Then I secured the 90 on with the two straps and connected it to the transom outlet. The short hose on the 90 needed to line up and push right over the flange of the cockpit thru-hull. This task was so simple. I took a 3' piece of 2X4 and wedged it under the 90 while using the bilge to pry up on the fitting to push the short hose into the flange. I was able to do this from the lazarett opening. To tighten the clamps you have a choice of either using a screw driver or a socket of the right size from a 1/4" drive set. I found it easier than trying to get a single hose on to those two thru-hull flanges.
So if I think of it next spring, I'm going to try and improve on the pitch of my hose. If I'm able to do it, I'll take some pics of it and post them here.
Joe

Rich:

When working with those thru hulls you have to mate with correct materials. So, if/when trying to attach another fitting onto threads you get sealant issues. But those usually can be solved. So, consider matching thread of thru hull to 45 degree fitting. You have to make sure that treads match so I would buy a similar thru hull to make sure. Then you have to cut off that long piece of smooth plastic so that fiiting would screw directly to thur hull.

You would use 45 and not 90 to maintain slight curvature to keep clean of junk that gets caught in the 90.

But that low spot is not good. It collects junk which can plug drain. On my 26 their is not a low spot. Maybe the hose was more flexible and shorter by an inch? Maybe just cutting an inch off hose would solve issue? That is if hose would flex?

Ed K
P. S. for Keith:
http://www.authorstream.com/Presentation/soundmanjay-344588-dont-cry-america-obamacare-socialism-argentina-ppspap-business-finance-ppt-powerpoint/

 

[RichBone]

Ed, is your transom thru-hull positioned lower than mine? I have screen covering my cockpit drain that keeps the drain pretty clear so far.

Rich