Oday 222 with asym set up.
- Thread starter scaramouche
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What I've been doing lately is creating Albums on this site and uploading my pictures to them. That way I can direct whoever is interested to them by copying and pasting the links to the replies in the threads. I think that a lot of people would be interested in how to set up an asym on an O'Day 222. It would be new to me because I've never used one myself.
Joe (Trinkka)
Would enjoy seeing some examples of how you rig your asym. I have a 222 though I'm new to her. Came with a spin - need some help on rigging.
Mike
O'Day 222 - Selkie
Northport, ME
Would enjoy seeing some examples of how you rig your asym. I have a 222 though I'm new to her. Came with a spin - need some help on rigging.
Mike
O'Day 222 - Selkie
Northport, ME
I attatched the mast block with a four rivet bail about 15 inches above roller furling point of attachment to mast. This is to run a Spin Halyard. This will keep you a frac rig for prhf/ club ratings as opposed to attatching at the mast head. I added a clet on rear port deck to set tack line. I tied (less holes) little blocks to base of port lifeline stancions to run the tack line. This allows for trimming the tack at cock pit. Again I tied on heavier blocks to port and starboard aft clets to run the Spin sheets back through. I run the sheets to rear of the boat then up to the drums and wrap as appropriat to wind. Will post pictures in the spring when Scamouche up and rigged.
The first 3 articles in this link have helped me a LOT. I bought my asymmetrical spinnaker from them.
http://www.fxsails.com/articles.php
Hope this helps.
http://www.fxsails.com/articles.php
Hope this helps.
Here's what I'm planning. I'm going with an asym. Right now it has a suffer tube, which is probably more trouble than it's worth in this size. I'm going to use a 2 3/4" long swiveling snap shackle (or trigger shackle if you prefer) for the halyard. I'm going to lash a small 1" sheave block with 1400lb capacity to the bow pulpit to use for the tack line. I think I will put another 2 2/4" snap shackle on the tack line for ease of connection.
The thing I haven't decided is how to attach the sheet to the clew. The easiest would be to use a third snap shackle, so I could leave the sheets reeved through the aft blocks. But it might be worth it to tie a knot in the middle of a long sheet, and then attach to the clew with a Dyneema soft shackle. Certainly the least weight with that option. I plan to run the sheets outside the rigging, flying the chute out, which might make for easier gybes than trying to pull it between the pulpit mounting point and the forestay. I don't think putting on the pulpit gets me that much of a gap to the forestay...
What do you guys think of this arrangement? Does the soft shackle sound like a good idea over another snap shackle?
Thanks,
Brian
The thing I haven't decided is how to attach the sheet to the clew. The easiest would be to use a third snap shackle, so I could leave the sheets reeved through the aft blocks. But it might be worth it to tie a knot in the middle of a long sheet, and then attach to the clew with a Dyneema soft shackle. Certainly the least weight with that option. I plan to run the sheets outside the rigging, flying the chute out, which might make for easier gybes than trying to pull it between the pulpit mounting point and the forestay. I don't think putting on the pulpit gets me that much of a gap to the forestay...
What do you guys think of this arrangement? Does the soft shackle sound like a good idea over another snap shackle?
Thanks,
Brian
I would not put that hunk of metal on a spin clew for a couple of reasons. Soft shackle or cow hitch would be better, IMO.
Bowline hitches.
Tie the sheets on with bowline hitches, the old fashioned way. I like to tie one short and one a bit longer so they are less bulky when jibing. Quick releases are fine for light loads but are far less reliable than a bowline. Great summer days deep reaching can get squirrelly in a hurry and really load up a n Asym. I use snap shackles on my Halyard and Tack with success, that said. I don't trust them for the sheets for fear of them opening while crossing the forestay during a jib. Racing experience taught me this lesson, but even while cruising, a blown sheet is no picnic.
Hope this helps, Have Fun!
Tie the sheets on with bowline hitches, the old fashioned way. I like to tie one short and one a bit longer so they are less bulky when jibing. Quick releases are fine for light loads but are far less reliable than a bowline. Great summer days deep reaching can get squirrelly in a hurry and really load up a n Asym. I use snap shackles on my Halyard and Tack with success, that said. I don't trust them for the sheets for fear of them opening while crossing the forestay during a jib. Racing experience taught me this lesson, but even while cruising, a blown sheet is no picnic.
Hope this helps, Have Fun!
Thanks, Scaramouche, for your comments. I took a bit of a turn on my asym - the guy I bought the boat from had a cruising asym, and I didn't want to buy it at the time. Well, turns out he still had it; for practically pocket change, I now have a Neal Pryde "Spanker" asym, and an adjustable Forespar whisker pole. I've attached a pic of the spin. I wouldn't call it a particularly attractive spinnaker, but it has color, and it will be fun. The former owner bought new sails from Pryde, because that was the original sail supplier, so I know that this asym is sized properly for the boat, as opposed to the asym I got from a ComPac 19.
It also came with a turtle. Kewl. I pulled it out in the living room, and I found it had a tack line and sheets tied on to it. And they are lightweight floating polypropylene lines - you know, nice double braid ones, not crappy stiff single braid stuff barely suited to dock lines. So, score on that, don't need to buy new ones!
The sheet is tied on to the clew. I've decided I'll untie it, and retie it in the middle like it is now to make a loop, but attach it to the clew with a 3/16" Dyneema soft shackle that I'll make myself. They are so easy to do if you've got fids... I'm not thrilled about making a loop with an overhand knot like that, but... I dunno, maybe I could stitch a loop into the single sheet, and then whip the stitching tightly. Not sure if that's a good way to do this or not... I've got some snap shackles on order for the head and tack line. My thinking is I can run the sheets and tack line at the start of the day, then pull the turtle and sail up on deck, and then quickly attach the lines.
Now, if only I could get the dang boat in the water! Done with winter!
Brian
It also came with a turtle. Kewl. I pulled it out in the living room, and I found it had a tack line and sheets tied on to it. And they are lightweight floating polypropylene lines - you know, nice double braid ones, not crappy stiff single braid stuff barely suited to dock lines. So, score on that, don't need to buy new ones!
The sheet is tied on to the clew. I've decided I'll untie it, and retie it in the middle like it is now to make a loop, but attach it to the clew with a 3/16" Dyneema soft shackle that I'll make myself. They are so easy to do if you've got fids... I'm not thrilled about making a loop with an overhand knot like that, but... I dunno, maybe I could stitch a loop into the single sheet, and then whip the stitching tightly. Not sure if that's a good way to do this or not... I've got some snap shackles on order for the head and tack line. My thinking is I can run the sheets and tack line at the start of the day, then pull the turtle and sail up on deck, and then quickly attach the lines.
Now, if only I could get the dang boat in the water! Done with winter!
Brian
Attachments
That name caught my eye right a way. Hope you enjoyed her last Summer as much as we did for 3 seasons.
We're now sailing our Hunter 26 out of South Haven (Hopefully!! Depends on water levels and dredging progress) Enjoying every minute of it, sails up or sails down.
The asym looks great, and should make Scaramouche a force to be reckoned with.
Hey, Scaramouche and others.
I was just on the phone with Rudy at D&R. I was asking him if there was ever a 3-1 purchase option on the backstay, as illustrated in the recent 192 review in Small Craft Advisor. It goes between the chainplate and the mainsheet triangle.
First, Rudy asked why I'd want one. I told him I pay too much attention to racers, and that I want more strings to pull on.
Then he said, "Well, I guess I can see moving the mast back. But you wouldn't want it for bending the mast. That mast isn't designed to bend." He said, "You've got the turnbuckle back there to adjust. You could put a Johnson Handy Lock turnbuckle on it." Which is an easier to adjust turnbuckle that self locks so as not to untwist. Still not the same as a backstay adjuster, but...
Then he told me the mast could break. He amended to say that the Z-Spar masts aren't very strong, and have been breaking. But he did say the Dwyer mast, which use the 2 pin hinged stainless steel mast step, are much stronger than the Z-Spars, and he hasn't seen any problems with them.
So, if you're flying a chute with the Dwyer mast, you are probably ok. But if you have a Z-Spar mast, I'd be very cautious based on what Rudy said...
Brian
I was just on the phone with Rudy at D&R. I was asking him if there was ever a 3-1 purchase option on the backstay, as illustrated in the recent 192 review in Small Craft Advisor. It goes between the chainplate and the mainsheet triangle.
First, Rudy asked why I'd want one. I told him I pay too much attention to racers, and that I want more strings to pull on.
Then he said, "Well, I guess I can see moving the mast back. But you wouldn't want it for bending the mast. That mast isn't designed to bend." He said, "You've got the turnbuckle back there to adjust. You could put a Johnson Handy Lock turnbuckle on it." Which is an easier to adjust turnbuckle that self locks so as not to untwist. Still not the same as a backstay adjuster, but...
Then he told me the mast could break.
He amended to say that the Z-Spar masts aren't very strong, and have been breaking. But he did say the Dwyer mast, which use the 2 pin hinged stainless steel mast step, are much stronger than the Z-Spars, and he hasn't seen any problems with them.So, if you're flying a chute with the Dwyer mast, you are probably ok. But if you have a Z-Spar mast, I'd be very cautious based on what Rudy said...
Brian
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