I have several leaking Lewmar portholes on this boat. I ordered and tried to replace the seals, but they still leak. Help, Suggestions, Comments Rick
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
seal lube
Rick, I have a 331 and had similar problems on a two year old boat when I bought it. I found the seals get "dry" and after using a seal lube, which looks more like chapstick than anything else, the leaks stopped, I had a slight leak again this season, relubed the one and the leak is gone. I believe the lube helps the seal flow and therefore seal better but also it also a "wax" which makes the seal more hydrophobic and repel water better, where it matters the most. Of course this assumes your leak is not around the hull, porthole fitting and is just the glass/ seal leak. Gook luck..hope this helps.
Rick, I have a 331 and had similar problems on a two year old boat when I bought it. I found the seals get "dry" and after using a seal lube, which looks more like chapstick than anything else, the leaks stopped, I had a slight leak again this season, relubed the one and the leak is gone. I believe the lube helps the seal flow and therefore seal better but also it also a "wax" which makes the seal more hydrophobic and repel water better, where it matters the most. Of course this assumes your leak is not around the hull, porthole fitting and is just the glass/ seal leak. Gook luck..hope this helps.
R
Rick Royston
C
Chris
I had a similar problem..
We also have a 321 with leaking portholes. I took off the plastic molding and tightened all the screws and it seemed to fix the problem. Some day soon, I likely will reseal the windows as well since the boat is almost 10 years old.
We also have a 321 with leaking portholes. I took off the plastic molding and tightened all the screws and it seemed to fix the problem. Some day soon, I likely will reseal the windows as well since the boat is almost 10 years old.
C
Chris
I had a similar problem..
We also have a 321 with leaking portholes. I took off the plastic molding and tightened all the screws and it seemed to fix the problem. Some day soon, I likely will reseal the windows as well since the boat is almost 10 years old.
We also have a 321 with leaking portholes. I took off the plastic molding and tightened all the screws and it seemed to fix the problem. Some day soon, I likely will reseal the windows as well since the boat is almost 10 years old.
C
Chris
I had a similar problem..
We also have a 321 with leaking portholes. I took off the plastic molding and tightened all the screws and it seemed to fix the problem. Some day soon, I likely will reseal the windows as well since the boat is almost 10 years old.
We also have a 321 with leaking portholes. I took off the plastic molding and tightened all the screws and it seemed to fix the problem. Some day soon, I likely will reseal the windows as well since the boat is almost 10 years old.
T
Tim
Not the seals
I had a 321 with this problem. Its a common problem with Lewmar portlights and is NOT the seals. Look at the portlight from the outside. See the grey "connector" between the upper and lower frames? This connector seals that joint, and over time it starts deteriorate and leak. Leak where you ask? The frames are hollow extrusions, and the water gets into the hollow center of the lower frame. Now look on the inside of your portlight (with trim ring removed), you will see that there are numerous holes on the inner frame where the inner frame and twist locks mount. The water which pools in the hollow extrusion seeps through these holes, even if they have screws in them (not all the holes in my boat had something screwed into them). I tried siliconing the threads, siliconing the unused holes, etc. It worked for awhile, but in the winter water would get in the hollow, freeze, and push the silicon out. I was never able to fix 100% of the leaks, and had to re-do some number of the fixes every year. IMO, the only way to permanently fix the problem is to remove the entire portlight, disassemble the frame, fill the hollow just below where the connector fits with silicon, and install new connectors. Fair winds, Tim
I had a 321 with this problem. Its a common problem with Lewmar portlights and is NOT the seals. Look at the portlight from the outside. See the grey "connector" between the upper and lower frames? This connector seals that joint, and over time it starts deteriorate and leak. Leak where you ask? The frames are hollow extrusions, and the water gets into the hollow center of the lower frame. Now look on the inside of your portlight (with trim ring removed), you will see that there are numerous holes on the inner frame where the inner frame and twist locks mount. The water which pools in the hollow extrusion seeps through these holes, even if they have screws in them (not all the holes in my boat had something screwed into them). I tried siliconing the threads, siliconing the unused holes, etc. It worked for awhile, but in the winter water would get in the hollow, freeze, and push the silicon out. I was never able to fix 100% of the leaks, and had to re-do some number of the fixes every year. IMO, the only way to permanently fix the problem is to remove the entire portlight, disassemble the frame, fill the hollow just below where the connector fits with silicon, and install new connectors. Fair winds, Tim
Lewmar Portlight Leaks
Those pesky Portlights DO leak - mainly thru the joint btw upper/lower external halves. Three comments: - I also cleaned out the grove btw the halves and filled with 5200 then covered with aluminum tape. - The other source for the leaks may be the "O" rings around the locking handles. I removed them (one screw), cleaned well and used new "O" rings on reassembly that I found at a hardware store (make sure they are right diameter & thickness). - Finally, use plenty of silicone grease everywhere two parts easily join - gaskets, O-rings, hinges, etc. So far, no recurrence of leaks . . .
Those pesky Portlights DO leak - mainly thru the joint btw upper/lower external halves. Three comments: - I also cleaned out the grove btw the halves and filled with 5200 then covered with aluminum tape. - The other source for the leaks may be the "O" rings around the locking handles. I removed them (one screw), cleaned well and used new "O" rings on reassembly that I found at a hardware store (make sure they are right diameter & thickness). - Finally, use plenty of silicone grease everywhere two parts easily join - gaskets, O-rings, hinges, etc. So far, no recurrence of leaks . . .
- Status
- Not open for further replies.