I am planning to take my Mac26D to the Bahamas. My Mac is already well equipped and the list would be probably too long. I am just wondering, is there anything specific to Mac 26D that I should know, remember, improve so my sea voyage is succesfull? So far I have been sailing for some time on Great Lakes ( Erie, Ontario, Huron) in sometimes advers condition, with 25-30 K winds and 6-9 foot waves. To my standards the boat handled just fine and at no time I felt in any danger. Can mac26D handle bigger waves? Thanks.
- Status
AIS receiver
I have friends sailing to the Bahamas now, they just purchased an AIS receiver and have been very pleased with the results. They were able to see vessel name, speed, heading, and all sorts of other information on all commercial traffic within 20 miles displayed on their laptop screen. I understand the plan is to also use this technology on many buoys as well so they will appear on chart plotters, radar screens, gps, laptop navigation programs etc. Good luck in your adventure, the Bahamas is a great place to sail, Bob
I have friends sailing to the Bahamas now, they just purchased an AIS receiver and have been very pleased with the results. They were able to see vessel name, speed, heading, and all sorts of other information on all commercial traffic within 20 miles displayed on their laptop screen. I understand the plan is to also use this technology on many buoys as well so they will appear on chart plotters, radar screens, gps, laptop navigation programs etc. Good luck in your adventure, the Bahamas is a great place to sail, Bob
AIS receiver
I have friends sailing to the Bahamas now, they just purchased an AIS receiver and have been very pleased with the results. They were able to see vessel name, speed, heading, and all sorts of other information on all commercial traffic within 20 miles displayed on their laptop screen. I understand the plan is to also use this technology on many buoys as well so they will appear on chart plotters, radar screens, gps, laptop navigation programs etc. Good luck in your adventure, the Bahamas is a great place to sail, Bob
I have friends sailing to the Bahamas now, they just purchased an AIS receiver and have been very pleased with the results. They were able to see vessel name, speed, heading, and all sorts of other information on all commercial traffic within 20 miles displayed on their laptop screen. I understand the plan is to also use this technology on many buoys as well so they will appear on chart plotters, radar screens, gps, laptop navigation programs etc. Good luck in your adventure, the Bahamas is a great place to sail, Bob
AIS receiver
I have friends sailing to the Bahamas now, they just purchased an AIS receiver and have been very pleased with the results. They were able to see vessel name, speed, heading, and all sorts of other information on all commercial traffic within 20 miles displayed on their laptop screen. I understand the plan is to also use this technology on many buoys as well so they will appear on chart plotters, radar screens, gps, laptop navigation programs etc. Good luck in your adventure, the Bahamas is a great place to sail, Bob
I have friends sailing to the Bahamas now, they just purchased an AIS receiver and have been very pleased with the results. They were able to see vessel name, speed, heading, and all sorts of other information on all commercial traffic within 20 miles displayed on their laptop screen. I understand the plan is to also use this technology on many buoys as well so they will appear on chart plotters, radar screens, gps, laptop navigation programs etc. Good luck in your adventure, the Bahamas is a great place to sail, Bob
AIS receiver
I have friends sailing to the Bahamas now, they just purchased an AIS receiver and have been very pleased with the results. They were able to see vessel name, speed, heading, and all sorts of other information on all commercial traffic within 20 miles displayed on their laptop screen. I understand the plan is to also use this technology on many buoys as well so they will appear on chart plotters, radar screens, gps, laptop navigation programs etc. Good luck in your adventure, the Bahamas is a great place to sail, Bob
I have friends sailing to the Bahamas now, they just purchased an AIS receiver and have been very pleased with the results. They were able to see vessel name, speed, heading, and all sorts of other information on all commercial traffic within 20 miles displayed on their laptop screen. I understand the plan is to also use this technology on many buoys as well so they will appear on chart plotters, radar screens, gps, laptop navigation programs etc. Good luck in your adventure, the Bahamas is a great place to sail, Bob
December / January crossing
December can often still be warm, we normally get a few really cold fronts (40's) between mid dec thru feb. you will need to plan a few days waiting for weather. no way you want to cross with a north front NW to NE winds. 12' seas is normal. Biscayne bay is a good place to hide out for a few days waiting for East winds. if you have not experienced large cargo ships as sea, its pretty intimidating. they move about 20knts, which is fast. you want about 1/2 to 1 mile distance between you and them. (they throw about a 6' wake) From the time I see them on the horizion, till they cross is 30-45 min.
December can often still be warm, we normally get a few really cold fronts (40's) between mid dec thru feb. you will need to plan a few days waiting for weather. no way you want to cross with a north front NW to NE winds. 12' seas is normal. Biscayne bay is a good place to hide out for a few days waiting for East winds. if you have not experienced large cargo ships as sea, its pretty intimidating. they move about 20knts, which is fast. you want about 1/2 to 1 mile distance between you and them. (they throw about a 6' wake) From the time I see them on the horizion, till they cross is 30-45 min.
I wouldn't call CARD a toy?
A radar reflector depends on the freighter crew not only maintaining 24/7 radar watch but also having their gear adjusted to see small targets (clutter filters etc). Most tests of the $100 units show them as pretty marginal in actual use. Plus, the reflector does not tell "you" there is a freighter out there and depends on the freighter crew taking action. Not much confidence in zero visibility and/or heavy seas! CARD tells "you" there is a commercial vessel within 6 - 8 miles and gives their bearing within 45 degrees. Doesn't matter if the bridge crew is asleep - doesn't matter if they have adjusted their radar so it doesn't see you. Considering how many sailors get run over by freighters it seems pretty cheap insurance at $500 (50 boat bucks...). I read of people trying K band radar detectors. Problem was insufficient range, no directional warning and not weatherproof. The $500 buys a commercial unit designed for continuous use at sea. I wouldn't be so fast to discount it as an "expensive toy" - just like a EPIRB. Chris
A radar reflector depends on the freighter crew not only maintaining 24/7 radar watch but also having their gear adjusted to see small targets (clutter filters etc). Most tests of the $100 units show them as pretty marginal in actual use. Plus, the reflector does not tell "you" there is a freighter out there and depends on the freighter crew taking action. Not much confidence in zero visibility and/or heavy seas! CARD tells "you" there is a commercial vessel within 6 - 8 miles and gives their bearing within 45 degrees. Doesn't matter if the bridge crew is asleep - doesn't matter if they have adjusted their radar so it doesn't see you. Considering how many sailors get run over by freighters it seems pretty cheap insurance at $500 (50 boat bucks...). I read of people trying K band radar detectors. Problem was insufficient range, no directional warning and not weatherproof. The $500 buys a commercial unit designed for continuous use at sea. I wouldn't be so fast to discount it as an "expensive toy" - just like a EPIRB. Chris
Off Shore II
To try and answer a few of Greg's questions. The rudders are weak because they are of a kick up design. You have a short fulcrum from the bottom of the side plate to the top of the rudder. With forces on the side of the rudder having all that length to lever against the side plates, they snap right there at the fulcrum point. If you make a rudder that is not of the kick up design, put your pintles right on the rudder and your tiller right on top of the rudder you will have less of a fulcrom, the leverage being only from the bottom pintle to the top pintle. This is much stronger, but won't kick up if it hits bottom. The rudder can be thicker then too. As to the outboard. The Briggs is not ment for use in salt water, I haven't seen any (except some electric trolling motors) that can't be used in salt water. However, motors for use in fresh water use aluminum anodes and motors for use in salt water use zinc anodes. If you pull your motor out of the water while sailing and at anchor it should be fine. The next problem comes with the water cooling system, fresh water cooling systems will use a thermostat that keeps the engine warmer, giving better fuel economy and less engine ware. Cooling systems for use in salt water have a thermostat that opens sooner so the engine runs cooler. This is so that salt will not build up in the engines. At temps of 180 degrees a good temp. for a freshwater cooled engine, salt will build up in the engine and heads and choke off the water flow, causing the engine to over heat and die. Put a 160 degree or lower thermostat in your engine if you plan to run it a lot durring your trip. Do flush the engine well when ever possible with fresh water, both inside and out. Spare shear pins or hub would be more important than a spare prop, unless you mean a spare prop and hub. Spare spark plugs can be a help if you flood the bugger. A can of carb cleaner incase you need to clean out a float bowl and jets. A spare hunk of line to replace the pull start rope, but this may already be in your spare line bag. Bigger repairs at sea are just too hard to do. I rely on spare sails. Being a cutter 2 jibs and a main are just for starters, I also have a flying jib, storm jib, 150 genny, and a drifter, tri sail and my old main, along with my old yankee and staysail. My boats engine is a 6 HP evinrude, but I also have a Water Bug (1.5 HP) for the dinghy that could be hung on the Vn 23. It wouldn't go fast but it would be better than nothing if there's no wind. Last ditch, get in the dinghy and tow the Vn with oars (OUCH). Think I'd just wait for the wind. As for an EPIRB. These have come way down in price the last several years. And there is also the Personal Locators too. Just like an EPIRB, same freq. same responce, just they transmit half as long. BUT the batteries on the personal locators are user replaceable. So with a spare battery would give you just as much coverage as an EPIRB. They do cost about the same, but the personal locators are smaller too. Rental runs about 3-350 a week, a new unit about 500, so with a 2 week cruise, may as well buy it. The rentals rarely have the built in GPS which can make a responce much faster. Both the personal Locators and the EPIRBs have this capability available. EPIRBs are required on commercial vessels with an automatic release (not available for the Personal Locators) and must have a stobe built in (not on all EPIRBS)(not on Personal Locators). Either way, a small stobe attached to each life jacket could save some-ones life if they were to go over board. Do get harnesses and teathers along with a jack line, if the weather comes up you won't want to be without them. The jack line can be made of good 7/16" line ran from the bow to the cockpit. Have good anchor points whether you buy your jack line or just run line. There's just too much stuff to suggest to bring, and not enough room to store it all. Make your list, decide what you can't do with out, and what ever you bring, hope you don't need. Lastly, what ever you leave at home, is exactly what you will need. Oh 6 gallons isn't much fuel at sea, so unless you sail like me, double that and cut back a little on the water. I get by on 1 gallon a day. Learn to conserve your water. Wash the dishes and your self with salt water, cook the noodles and soups with salt water (then you don't need to salt them either). Hint, don't ever put any chemical in the top part of your port a potty, in an emergency you can use the water.
To try and answer a few of Greg's questions. The rudders are weak because they are of a kick up design. You have a short fulcrum from the bottom of the side plate to the top of the rudder. With forces on the side of the rudder having all that length to lever against the side plates, they snap right there at the fulcrum point. If you make a rudder that is not of the kick up design, put your pintles right on the rudder and your tiller right on top of the rudder you will have less of a fulcrom, the leverage being only from the bottom pintle to the top pintle. This is much stronger, but won't kick up if it hits bottom. The rudder can be thicker then too. As to the outboard. The Briggs is not ment for use in salt water, I haven't seen any (except some electric trolling motors) that can't be used in salt water. However, motors for use in fresh water use aluminum anodes and motors for use in salt water use zinc anodes. If you pull your motor out of the water while sailing and at anchor it should be fine. The next problem comes with the water cooling system, fresh water cooling systems will use a thermostat that keeps the engine warmer, giving better fuel economy and less engine ware. Cooling systems for use in salt water have a thermostat that opens sooner so the engine runs cooler. This is so that salt will not build up in the engines. At temps of 180 degrees a good temp. for a freshwater cooled engine, salt will build up in the engine and heads and choke off the water flow, causing the engine to over heat and die. Put a 160 degree or lower thermostat in your engine if you plan to run it a lot durring your trip. Do flush the engine well when ever possible with fresh water, both inside and out. Spare shear pins or hub would be more important than a spare prop, unless you mean a spare prop and hub. Spare spark plugs can be a help if you flood the bugger. A can of carb cleaner incase you need to clean out a float bowl and jets. A spare hunk of line to replace the pull start rope, but this may already be in your spare line bag. Bigger repairs at sea are just too hard to do. I rely on spare sails. Being a cutter 2 jibs and a main are just for starters, I also have a flying jib, storm jib, 150 genny, and a drifter, tri sail and my old main, along with my old yankee and staysail. My boats engine is a 6 HP evinrude, but I also have a Water Bug (1.5 HP) for the dinghy that could be hung on the Vn 23. It wouldn't go fast but it would be better than nothing if there's no wind. Last ditch, get in the dinghy and tow the Vn with oars (OUCH). Think I'd just wait for the wind. As for an EPIRB. These have come way down in price the last several years. And there is also the Personal Locators too. Just like an EPIRB, same freq. same responce, just they transmit half as long. BUT the batteries on the personal locators are user replaceable. So with a spare battery would give you just as much coverage as an EPIRB. They do cost about the same, but the personal locators are smaller too. Rental runs about 3-350 a week, a new unit about 500, so with a 2 week cruise, may as well buy it. The rentals rarely have the built in GPS which can make a responce much faster. Both the personal Locators and the EPIRBs have this capability available. EPIRBs are required on commercial vessels with an automatic release (not available for the Personal Locators) and must have a stobe built in (not on all EPIRBS)(not on Personal Locators). Either way, a small stobe attached to each life jacket could save some-ones life if they were to go over board. Do get harnesses and teathers along with a jack line, if the weather comes up you won't want to be without them. The jack line can be made of good 7/16" line ran from the bow to the cockpit. Have good anchor points whether you buy your jack line or just run line. There's just too much stuff to suggest to bring, and not enough room to store it all. Make your list, decide what you can't do with out, and what ever you bring, hope you don't need. Lastly, what ever you leave at home, is exactly what you will need. Oh 6 gallons isn't much fuel at sea, so unless you sail like me, double that and cut back a little on the water. I get by on 1 gallon a day. Learn to conserve your water. Wash the dishes and your self with salt water, cook the noodles and soups with salt water (then you don't need to salt them either). Hint, don't ever put any chemical in the top part of your port a potty, in an emergency you can use the water.
CARD TOY
For Chris, yes I will always think of CARD as a toy. It really isn't that helpful and it's expensive. Heck if $500 isn't much to you then go $1000 and get a RADAR. That will tell you where the ships are, where the other small craft are, a 16 mile range instead of an 8 mile range, and you can tell the speed and heading as well as the intercept of all those vessels, plus it can be used for navigation, spotting Nav aids, harbors, and other landmarks, at night and in a heavy fog. What good is it knowing that a ships radar has swept you and it's somewhere off your port side? Which way do you go to prevent a collision? It's pot luck, as what ever way you turn could be putting you right in it's path. What a shame if it actually did change corse to miss you, then you change corse right back infront of it. CARD an expensive toy. AIS is a different stoy, and more expensive. CG has hopes some day of requiring them on all vessels. I don't like that either. Talk about BIG BROTHER. It works with RADAR and GPS chart plotters. Neat but how much electronic crap do you want on a small sailboat? I sail to get away, and don't want to run a generator just to feed electronics. That's why there is no RADAR on any of my sailboats. I do have RADAR on my powerboat. That's for fishing, not relaxing. It has a motor running anyways so the power draw doesn't matter. It has a GPS chart plotter too, and a depth/fish finder. None of these electric do-dads are on any of my sailboats. The powerboat never goes more than 25 miles off shore, I take my sailboats where ever I feel like. Even the Vn23 has been out 40 miles from the nearest land. Running lights and my auto pilot are my only electric items, I'd have a windvane instead of an auto pilot if they weren't so darn expensive. I do have EPIRB and have never used it, probably never will. Don't think I'd light it up even if I was sinking. That's what the dinghy is for. I'd have to not be able to make land before setting off the EPIRB. I don't want a baby sitter over my sholder.
For Chris, yes I will always think of CARD as a toy. It really isn't that helpful and it's expensive. Heck if $500 isn't much to you then go $1000 and get a RADAR. That will tell you where the ships are, where the other small craft are, a 16 mile range instead of an 8 mile range, and you can tell the speed and heading as well as the intercept of all those vessels, plus it can be used for navigation, spotting Nav aids, harbors, and other landmarks, at night and in a heavy fog. What good is it knowing that a ships radar has swept you and it's somewhere off your port side? Which way do you go to prevent a collision? It's pot luck, as what ever way you turn could be putting you right in it's path. What a shame if it actually did change corse to miss you, then you change corse right back infront of it. CARD an expensive toy. AIS is a different stoy, and more expensive. CG has hopes some day of requiring them on all vessels. I don't like that either. Talk about BIG BROTHER. It works with RADAR and GPS chart plotters. Neat but how much electronic crap do you want on a small sailboat? I sail to get away, and don't want to run a generator just to feed electronics. That's why there is no RADAR on any of my sailboats. I do have RADAR on my powerboat. That's for fishing, not relaxing. It has a motor running anyways so the power draw doesn't matter. It has a GPS chart plotter too, and a depth/fish finder. None of these electric do-dads are on any of my sailboats. The powerboat never goes more than 25 miles off shore, I take my sailboats where ever I feel like. Even the Vn23 has been out 40 miles from the nearest land. Running lights and my auto pilot are my only electric items, I'd have a windvane instead of an auto pilot if they weren't so darn expensive. I do have EPIRB and have never used it, probably never will. Don't think I'd light it up even if I was sinking. That's what the dinghy is for. I'd have to not be able to make land before setting off the EPIRB. I don't want a baby sitter over my sholder.
Crossing the Gulf Stream
I looked up this site (eboating com) on crossing the Gulf Stream (I hope it shows here). Anyway, they caution that the speed can be around 2.5 - 3.0 knots per hour northwards,and should be taken into consideration Good luck Ron
I looked up this site (eboating com) on crossing the Gulf Stream (I hope it shows here). Anyway, they caution that the speed can be around 2.5 - 3.0 knots per hour northwards,and should be taken into consideration Good luck Ron
Thansk for the "article"
Thanks to the guy from Leeroy You have almost written an article. All great suggestions. Can you onfirm if the heading towards bimini is correct? I have read that once at Fowey Rocks waypoint sailboats should head towards Sounth Riding rock that is to maintain East 115 heading, that suppose to compensate for the current and it should carry me to Bimini. Can you correct if I am wrong? Thanks
Thanks to the guy from Leeroy You have almost written an article. All great suggestions. Can you onfirm if the heading towards bimini is correct? I have read that once at Fowey Rocks waypoint sailboats should head towards Sounth Riding rock that is to maintain East 115 heading, that suppose to compensate for the current and it should carry me to Bimini. Can you correct if I am wrong? Thanks
planning corse
Corse will depend on what speed you are making. Plan on a 2 K current and plot that line first. This would be the furthest North you would allow the boat to go. Then, if the wind changes make a little more southing, It's always easier to fall off the wind and go down current than try and make ground up beating into a current. Note, I count on a southerly wind, that's because with a wind out of the north you don't want to make this passage in a small boat. When the wind goes against the current the seas will really build. In other words plot a point about 13-14 miles south of where you want to make land fall and steer this corse or more. Check your posistion at least every 2 hours or so, and watch your speed. If you slow down, head more south. After clearing the stream, you can correct your corse and shorten the trip a little. A GPS will give you what corse you are making good, not steering, and will let you make the passage in the shortest time. Still I like to plan on a noon arrival, the sun is high and you can see pretty deep. Then if I run a little late I don't have to stand off till morning. This means a night of sailing, but it's beautiful. If you haven't sailed at night yet, try that first in waters you are familiar with first. It is really easier at sea than near shore. Near shore, lights onshore block out and are easily confused with the navigational lights.
Corse will depend on what speed you are making. Plan on a 2 K current and plot that line first. This would be the furthest North you would allow the boat to go. Then, if the wind changes make a little more southing, It's always easier to fall off the wind and go down current than try and make ground up beating into a current. Note, I count on a southerly wind, that's because with a wind out of the north you don't want to make this passage in a small boat. When the wind goes against the current the seas will really build. In other words plot a point about 13-14 miles south of where you want to make land fall and steer this corse or more. Check your posistion at least every 2 hours or so, and watch your speed. If you slow down, head more south. After clearing the stream, you can correct your corse and shorten the trip a little. A GPS will give you what corse you are making good, not steering, and will let you make the passage in the shortest time. Still I like to plan on a noon arrival, the sun is high and you can see pretty deep. Then if I run a little late I don't have to stand off till morning. This means a night of sailing, but it's beautiful. If you haven't sailed at night yet, try that first in waters you are familiar with first. It is really easier at sea than near shore. Near shore, lights onshore block out and are easily confused with the navigational lights.
Bahamas
Interesting fact. once you reach the Bahamas, there is little or no bottom growth. Because there are no rivers I've been told, If you scrub the bottom after crossing, you could go quite a long time before seeing any bottom growth. whatever the reason, its a lot better than the USA. btw, cruising season just started, 80's and sunny, high 60's at night.
Interesting fact. once you reach the Bahamas, there is little or no bottom growth. Because there are no rivers I've been told, If you scrub the bottom after crossing, you could go quite a long time before seeing any bottom growth. whatever the reason, its a lot better than the USA. btw, cruising season just started, 80's and sunny, high 60's at night.
GS correction
I Think the correction for the Gulf Steam is more like 3knts. 3.5-4 at center. you could also aim for gun/cat cay. its a few miles south of Bimini, good anchorage, and you can clear, but cat is private.
I Think the correction for the Gulf Steam is more like 3knts. 3.5-4 at center. you could also aim for gun/cat cay. its a few miles south of Bimini, good anchorage, and you can clear, but cat is private.
GS Correction, Correction
Mr. Bill you are correct. But if you take the time for the whole passage and the current average for the same you average about 2 K north. Average is the key here. Like I said, check your posistion and adjust. The boat will not only be carried north by the current (set), but it will have some drift too. One should also consult the tide and current tables for the day and time of passage. Never trust any-one elses navigation plans. Get out the charts, tables. etc. and plot it yourself. Learn to navigate without a GPS. These are nice gadgets. They help a lot. But be able to find where you are. Know where you are going (that's the one I don't do so well with), and what way to go to get there. Know all your navigational equipment, and how to use it. Cpt. Bliegh sailed a long way with some inaccurate hand drawn charts and a compass, in a very small open boat. With all the technology and great gadgets at our disposil, there is no reason not to be able to do better. (He did loose one man to cannibles).
Mr. Bill you are correct. But if you take the time for the whole passage and the current average for the same you average about 2 K north. Average is the key here. Like I said, check your posistion and adjust. The boat will not only be carried north by the current (set), but it will have some drift too. One should also consult the tide and current tables for the day and time of passage. Never trust any-one elses navigation plans. Get out the charts, tables. etc. and plot it yourself. Learn to navigate without a GPS. These are nice gadgets. They help a lot. But be able to find where you are. Know where you are going (that's the one I don't do so well with), and what way to go to get there. Know all your navigational equipment, and how to use it. Cpt. Bliegh sailed a long way with some inaccurate hand drawn charts and a compass, in a very small open boat. With all the technology and great gadgets at our disposil, there is no reason not to be able to do better. (He did loose one man to cannibles).
More facts, great.
Thanks again to all responding guys out there, I am learning a lot. It is important to know as much as possible to avoid any silly mistakes. Sailing around big tankers is very intimidating, we have quite a number of them on Lake Ontario but I don't remember them leaving 6 foot wake. I have few new questions. I read that any foreign boat over 30' or so has to purchase a cruising licence for the USA. It is about $30? Since Mac is only 26' I probably don't need one. Can you confirm that? If I drop the boat in Miami ( boat is licenced in Canada), do I need to contact the US coastguard or other outhorities before I launch or they don't care about it. Do I need to contact US emigration or other outhorities ( asking for clearance)before I leave for the bahamas? If I launch in Crandon Park (there is a big launchng area there), can I leave my car and trailer for 3 weeks right on the huge parking lot they have there? If not, where can I leave my vehicle and trailer? so when I come back they will still be there. Can you recommend any reasonably priced parking in the Crandon park area? thanks again.
Thanks again to all responding guys out there, I am learning a lot. It is important to know as much as possible to avoid any silly mistakes. Sailing around big tankers is very intimidating, we have quite a number of them on Lake Ontario but I don't remember them leaving 6 foot wake. I have few new questions. I read that any foreign boat over 30' or so has to purchase a cruising licence for the USA. It is about $30? Since Mac is only 26' I probably don't need one. Can you confirm that? If I drop the boat in Miami ( boat is licenced in Canada), do I need to contact the US coastguard or other outhorities before I launch or they don't care about it. Do I need to contact US emigration or other outhorities ( asking for clearance)before I leave for the bahamas? If I launch in Crandon Park (there is a big launchng area there), can I leave my car and trailer for 3 weeks right on the huge parking lot they have there? If not, where can I leave my vehicle and trailer? so when I come back they will still be there. Can you recommend any reasonably priced parking in the Crandon park area? thanks again.
Customs
heck that I don't know. I have my brother take my car and trailer back to his place (West Palm). As far as customs goes, you cleared US customs when you came in to the US. Florida will require a boat registration if you are on Fl. waters for more than 24 hours. At least it used to be that way, thing are always changing. You will need to clear US customs when you come back into US waters just like you had to clear Bahamas customs there. Contact US Customs office as they are very busy changing all the rules. Pass ports will be nessasary for everything soon. It will be easier getting into Bahamas than back into US, at least it's that way for us. It's always very easy and fast when I go into Canada, and takes me hours to clear coming back home. Personally, I would worry more about the burecrates than the ocean. Seas are more predictable.
heck that I don't know. I have my brother take my car and trailer back to his place (West Palm). As far as customs goes, you cleared US customs when you came in to the US. Florida will require a boat registration if you are on Fl. waters for more than 24 hours. At least it used to be that way, thing are always changing. You will need to clear US customs when you come back into US waters just like you had to clear Bahamas customs there. Contact US Customs office as they are very busy changing all the rules. Pass ports will be nessasary for everything soon. It will be easier getting into Bahamas than back into US, at least it's that way for us. It's always very easy and fast when I go into Canada, and takes me hours to clear coming back home. Personally, I would worry more about the burecrates than the ocean. Seas are more predictable.
Please Read the conch cruisers site
All of this has been covered on the conch's fourms. I suggest you launch at Homestad vs Crandon, even though its farther south. you can exit at anglefish creek, and return thru biscayne/stiltsville channel But yes, you can launch at crandon... no guarantee on your vehicle or trailer. homestead is safer and nicer, imho. your Bahamian cruising fee will be $150.00 for your boat, over 35' is $300, and ask for the fishing, crawfish, and spearfishing permit exception. They will give it to you, but only if you ask. water and ice and fuel are pricey too... might just want to keys and save $$$
All of this has been covered on the conch's fourms. I suggest you launch at Homestad vs Crandon, even though its farther south. you can exit at anglefish creek, and return thru biscayne/stiltsville channel But yes, you can launch at crandon... no guarantee on your vehicle or trailer. homestead is safer and nicer, imho. your Bahamian cruising fee will be $150.00 for your boat, over 35' is $300, and ask for the fishing, crawfish, and spearfishing permit exception. They will give it to you, but only if you ask. water and ice and fuel are pricey too... might just want to keys and save $$$
whee to launch?
So where is the ramp in Homestead? Is it in the Biscayne National Park at the Military Canal? Can I leave the car there? Do I have to contact US customs before I leave Florida for Bimini or I can just leave without notifying anybody? ok,,thanks..
So where is the ramp in Homestead? Is it in the Biscayne National Park at the Military Canal? Can I leave the car there? Do I have to contact US customs before I leave Florida for Bimini or I can just leave without notifying anybody? ok,,thanks..
marinas
Crandon marina on key biscayne is ok, and shorter trip to hurricane harbor and then out biscayne channel, but facilities are poor and less secure IMHO. but you would probably burn less fuel. homestead is smaller, but has plenty of parking, and is further south. turnpike south to speedway blvd, then just before you get to the speedway you take a left down a 2 lane bumpy road, canal, at end of road bear right into county park, (left is a national park center, MP docks but no ramp there) http://www.miamidade.gov/parks/parks/homestead_beach.asp please read the conch cruisers past trips to bimini, http://www.conchcruisers.net/
Crandon marina on key biscayne is ok, and shorter trip to hurricane harbor and then out biscayne channel, but facilities are poor and less secure IMHO. but you would probably burn less fuel. homestead is smaller, but has plenty of parking, and is further south. turnpike south to speedway blvd, then just before you get to the speedway you take a left down a 2 lane bumpy road, canal, at end of road bear right into county park, (left is a national park center, MP docks but no ramp there) http://www.miamidade.gov/parks/parks/homestead_beach.asp please read the conch cruisers past trips to bimini, http://www.conchcruisers.net/
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