I'm in need of main companionway/hatch covers...either teak,plexiglass etc...does any other O'day owners have a source? Also looking for a copy of original O'Day 23 color brochure...willing to pay for a copy...email me pls at www.hazelwood@rockisland.com Thank you, Dan O Smith, Orcas Island, Wash.
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Hatch Boards
Dan - Nice, relatively inexpensive hatch boards can be had pretty esaily. Use cardboard to make templates of the companionway opening. Go to a building supplier - off island I imagine - and buy stair treads. Its actually cheaper most of the time than buying lumber. Transcripe the templates, cut them out, and you're good to go. I finished mine with epoxy covered with varnish. They look great. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
Dan - Nice, relatively inexpensive hatch boards can be had pretty esaily. Use cardboard to make templates of the companionway opening. Go to a building supplier - off island I imagine - and buy stair treads. Its actually cheaper most of the time than buying lumber. Transcripe the templates, cut them out, and you're good to go. I finished mine with epoxy covered with varnish. They look great. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
Stair tread?
I'm in need of these as well. Could you please define stair tread to us carpentry enept? Do you mean the horizontal boards that they use in a stair case that you walk on? Is stair tread the 'technical term' for them, or your own personal? I just always assumed that was raw lumber...had no idea it was a specific type of board. Has anyone replaced these with some type of plexi or fiberglass? If so, how did it work for you? Josh
I'm in need of these as well. Could you please define stair tread to us carpentry enept? Do you mean the horizontal boards that they use in a stair case that you walk on? Is stair tread the 'technical term' for them, or your own personal? I just always assumed that was raw lumber...had no idea it was a specific type of board. Has anyone replaced these with some type of plexi or fiberglass? If so, how did it work for you? Josh
For the less handy...
Personally, I wouldn't go near a power tool for fear of cutting the boat in half... for those like me, the chandlery here sells custom hatch boards. They're not cheap, but they are teak and literally a work of art. ph.
Personally, I wouldn't go near a power tool for fear of cutting the boat in half... for those like me, the chandlery here sells custom hatch boards. They're not cheap, but they are teak and literally a work of art. ph.
Stair treads
Dan, Stair tread stock is available at any lumber yard or builder supply store. It is what you step on when you go up or down the stairs. It is usually 11 1/4" wide and comes in either precut lengths from 36"-48" and longer if special ordered, or in long lengths of 12'-16' to be cut to length. The materials can be yellow pine, oak or maple to name a few examples. It is usually designated 5/4 which is actually 1 1/16" thick which makes it stronger than 3/4" but not as heavy as 1 1/2" stock. Now, as to how to use it... Stair tread stock has a round edge called a bullnose on one edge of the stock and that must be trimmed off and a rabbet or bevel should be cut on one edge of the top and bottom pieces and on both edges of the intermediate pieces to keep the water from leaking at the seams. How many pieces you will have to cut depends on the height of your companionway. Thickness could also be a problem if your companionway slats have to slide into slots at the edges of the openings. 5/4 stock is probably too thick to fit the slot. You will have to rabbet the edge on a saw or with a router. Cutting and fitting should not be a problem if you're handy with wood. That's probably more than you ever wanted to know about stair tread stock, but I teach carpentry/cabinet-making, and you just got a dose of my classroom spiel. Good luck Tom
Dan, Stair tread stock is available at any lumber yard or builder supply store. It is what you step on when you go up or down the stairs. It is usually 11 1/4" wide and comes in either precut lengths from 36"-48" and longer if special ordered, or in long lengths of 12'-16' to be cut to length. The materials can be yellow pine, oak or maple to name a few examples. It is usually designated 5/4 which is actually 1 1/16" thick which makes it stronger than 3/4" but not as heavy as 1 1/2" stock. Now, as to how to use it... Stair tread stock has a round edge called a bullnose on one edge of the stock and that must be trimmed off and a rabbet or bevel should be cut on one edge of the top and bottom pieces and on both edges of the intermediate pieces to keep the water from leaking at the seams. How many pieces you will have to cut depends on the height of your companionway. Thickness could also be a problem if your companionway slats have to slide into slots at the edges of the openings. 5/4 stock is probably too thick to fit the slot. You will have to rabbet the edge on a saw or with a router. Cutting and fitting should not be a problem if you're handy with wood. That's probably more than you ever wanted to know about stair tread stock, but I teach carpentry/cabinet-making, and you just got a dose of my classroom spiel. Good luck Tom
Thanks for the info...
Hmm..not a bad idea. What about keeping the round edge and bevelling the back side so they fit into eachother like a tongue and grove? To keep the water out... Luckily I have a cabinet maker in the family...and will have to bother him soon about the doors... Josh
Hmm..not a bad idea. What about keeping the round edge and bevelling the back side so they fit into eachother like a tongue and grove? To keep the water out... Luckily I have a cabinet maker in the family...and will have to bother him soon about the doors... Josh
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