If you want to get into more nitty-gritty of your rig, and a variety of other rigs, you could check out Seldén Mast's rigging guide, available as "Hints and Advice" PDFs to download here:
Rigging instructions & sailmakers guide : Seldén Mast AB
One thing you should be aware of is that the 222 is not designed as a performance boat, and rig tensions recommended by Seldén are, in my opinion, way too high for the boat. In fact, the original O'day rigging guide describes the rig as "hand tight" if memory serves.
As a racing influence sailor who is always trying to "sail fast," over time I have become less and less obsessive over my rig, and have allowed the rig tensions of my 192 to go far less than I normally would do. Sailing in roughly 8-10 knots, I allow the leeward upper shroud to loosen, not to the point of flailing around, but visibly looser. When I ran higher tensions, I had issues with the rig loosening over time. I have since shored up my mast step, and I am loathe to have to cut the whole thing apart and repair it, though I know this is in my future. Besides which, the boat wasn't designed to have a very tight rig anyway.
I rig my boat with about .75-1" of mast pre-bend, and I have learned not to make the lowers too tight, as they will pull the pre-bend out of the mast. I sail the boat close hauled in about 8-10 knots, and note the amount of weather helm, going for about 6º of weather helm in the tiller. I adjust this primarily using the balance between uppers and forestay, slacking off both uppers the same amount, and taking up on the forestay to reduce weather helm, or converse to increase weather helm. At first attempts to tune the rig, I had it so neutral, that in higher winds I had definite lee helm. But I don't want so much weather helm that I'm slowing the boat down with excessive pull on the tiller. I tighten my backstay so that it's not flopping around, and I've found that more backstay just seems to put a noticeable crick in the top of the mast above the hounds, and that doesn't look right to me, so I see to reduce that. I use the main halyard pulled down to chainplates to make sure that the mast is straight up and down side-to-side, and with main halyard pulled down to the base of the mast tightly, to sight up the back of the mast to estimate pre-bend. Then use lowers to make sure the mast is in column, but not pull out the pre-bend. Because I have one, I use my Loos gauge to make sure uppers kinda match tension, lowers match each other, and forestay doesn't seem excessively high tension compared to uppers.