O 240 keel ?

Dec 27, 2012
587
Precision Precision 28 St Augustine
I'm considering moving up to a 240. I have been corisponding with a gentleman that has one for sale. I haven't looked at it yet. I have received several photos. Looks clean but my one concern is the keel. It may be the lighting in the picture but it looks the keel stub isn't fiberglassed to the hull. What do you think?
 

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Pat

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Jun 7, 2004
1,250
Oday 272LE Ninnescah Yacht Club, Wichita, Ks.
The keel bilge area looks normal but it is impossible to tell without better lighting of the bottom of the keel showing the bolts and backing plates. Our 272 has one of the bolts under the corner of the head floor (forward of the main cabin) but O'Day did provide a removable access floor hatch above that keel bolt for visual checks.
 
Nov 8, 2010
11,386
Beneteau First 36.7 & 260 Minneapolis MN & Bayfield WI
I think its a bit of an optical illusion caused by lighting. I'm guessing the dark line is a shadow. The keel stub is an integral part of the hull; its one laminate. The lead keel is only the lower half (you can see the form line).
 
Dec 27, 2012
587
Precision Precision 28 St Augustine
Thanks, I think your correct. I will certainly get a better look once I check it out.
 
Apr 4, 2013
116
O'day 240 NY, NY (City Island)
I just purchased (this spring) a 240 and am sorting out lots of issues with the running rigging (reefing, outhaul, topping lift...). If you do buy it, I'd be interested in learning how it is rigged. Meanwhile, I'll post what I've done as soon as it's all finished and tested.

Best,

Greg
 
Apr 4, 2013
116
O'day 240 NY, NY (City Island)
To answer your question, though, the keel looks ok to me, but try to get a better look at the bolts from the top, and the bilge area overall, to see if there is any evidence of leakage at the keel/hull joint.
 

Pat

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Jun 7, 2004
1,250
Oday 272LE Ninnescah Yacht Club, Wichita, Ks.
Did you check the I (heart) O'Day for the 240 manual? As I recall, the 240 had a Z-Spar
mast similiar in design to the Z-Spar on the 272...Had single line reefing system, topping lift, outhaul, etc., But I could easily be incorrect.. of course, the line diameters may be smaller...
 
Apr 4, 2013
116
O'day 240 NY, NY (City Island)
I did check the manual. It has been very helpful, but doesn't tell the whole story.

My boat has the Isomat boom and spars, which really is the source of the problem. The boat was rigged, from its initial commissioning, using the Isomat reefing design. This design, as some users may know, uses a notorious "shuttle block" inside the boom to translate the reefing force from the tack to the clew.

This, however, is *not* how the manual shows the reefing lines should be run... in fact it doesn't even show the shuttle block in the boom.

What the manual does show is a block at the reef point of the main along the leech. This does, in fact, translate the reefing force from the tack to the clew, once the tack is pulled down to the guide on the mast.

So as I am in the process of replacing all of the running rigging, after staring long and hard at that shuttle block and the mess of lines it created inside the boom, I decided there was no good reason to use it. It created no mechanical advantage, and instead added a lot of friction. Moreover, I asked a professional rigger about the shuttle block and he concurred...they are troublesome, and often end up over the course of a few years getting twisted inside the boom, requiring owners to remove the ends of their boom to get the whole mess out.

So, I cut all the lines, removed the shuttle block, and have as best as possible replicated the design in the O'day manual, which appears effective, and efficient. I do need a much longer reefing line than described in the manual, however (about 55').

Still working on a good outhaul design to work with my brandy-new loose-footed main. If you're interested, I'll let you know when I get that reasonably well sorted out.

Best,

Greg