- Status
Durability/reliability?
I recently had to replace a plastic (marelon) seacock on the head sink. It was a week before our two-week summer cruise when the handle broke off in my hand as I tried to open it. It stayed in the closed position. I had to have the boat hauled and a new shutoff installed. After all was said & done the cost to replace a $50 shutoff was outrageous. A bronze valve was recommended by the yard, but the parts weren't readily available since I was getting ready to shove off in a couple of days. (The valve was available but the bronze thru hull wasn't and would have to be ordered.) In the long run, the bronze shut off was cheaper (the thru hull much more expensive) and most likely more durable/reliable. The trick with marelon is to keep them properly lubricated with a teflon powder in the off season (when hauled) and periodically with a liquid lube when it's in the water.
I recently had to replace a plastic (marelon) seacock on the head sink. It was a week before our two-week summer cruise when the handle broke off in my hand as I tried to open it. It stayed in the closed position. I had to have the boat hauled and a new shutoff installed. After all was said & done the cost to replace a $50 shutoff was outrageous. A bronze valve was recommended by the yard, but the parts weren't readily available since I was getting ready to shove off in a couple of days. (The valve was available but the bronze thru hull wasn't and would have to be ordered.) In the long run, the bronze shut off was cheaper (the thru hull much more expensive) and most likely more durable/reliable. The trick with marelon is to keep them properly lubricated with a teflon powder in the off season (when hauled) and periodically with a liquid lube when it's in the water.
No saving grace for CHEAP seacocks
Thru-hulls and seacocks are an evil that most of us think of as necessary for our comfort and convenience. Our boats would be a heck of a lot safer without them. There is even less justification for CHEAP thru-hulls and seacocks. No one has ever said that nylon thru-hulls and seacocks are safer than bronze, only that they are cheaper and lighter and (in theory) may require less maintenance. If you regularly sail in water that is deeper than you are tall, there is really not a whole lot to think about here. Flying Dutchman
Thru-hulls and seacocks are an evil that most of us think of as necessary for our comfort and convenience. Our boats would be a heck of a lot safer without them. There is even less justification for CHEAP thru-hulls and seacocks. No one has ever said that nylon thru-hulls and seacocks are safer than bronze, only that they are cheaper and lighter and (in theory) may require less maintenance. If you regularly sail in water that is deeper than you are tall, there is really not a whole lot to think about here. Flying Dutchman
Marelon seacocks
The Marelon seacocks by Forespar have worked very well for me. The previous marina the boat was in had problems with 'hot' areas and with Marelon seacocks this was just one less thing to worry about. Before getting our H-35 I crewed for a friend on his C&C 36 who had bronze seacocks. His daughter got married (married the foredeck crew!) and they took their honeymoon on the boat in the San Juans. He received a frantic call from his daughter that the boat was in danger of sinking. They were in Friday Harbor and had the wood plug in the hole. Since he was a mechanical engineer I flew him up and he replaced the seacock with the boat in the water. The old seacock had corroded and broke off. The corrosion was not visible from the outside of the valve. It was really good that the problem was noticed as early as it was. I think it was the raw water intake and the engine temperature alarm went off. This paticular problem would not have happened with a plastic seacock. Lightning - again, no worry. Grounding wire corrosion - no worry. I've replaced two of my seacocks (last year) in 11 years but they've never been lubed and a few of them have been exercised very litle (located where there is poor access). I was going to lube them at this years haulout but didn't have time. Since the replacement (easy to do) they have been exercised more, however. It is possible to replace a seacock with the boat in the water though if you don't mind some water coming in and can handle a little excitement.
The Marelon seacocks by Forespar have worked very well for me. The previous marina the boat was in had problems with 'hot' areas and with Marelon seacocks this was just one less thing to worry about. Before getting our H-35 I crewed for a friend on his C&C 36 who had bronze seacocks. His daughter got married (married the foredeck crew!) and they took their honeymoon on the boat in the San Juans. He received a frantic call from his daughter that the boat was in danger of sinking. They were in Friday Harbor and had the wood plug in the hole. Since he was a mechanical engineer I flew him up and he replaced the seacock with the boat in the water. The old seacock had corroded and broke off. The corrosion was not visible from the outside of the valve. It was really good that the problem was noticed as early as it was. I think it was the raw water intake and the engine temperature alarm went off. This paticular problem would not have happened with a plastic seacock. Lightning - again, no worry. Grounding wire corrosion - no worry. I've replaced two of my seacocks (last year) in 11 years but they've never been lubed and a few of them have been exercised very litle (located where there is poor access). I was going to lube them at this years haulout but didn't have time. Since the replacement (easy to do) they have been exercised more, however. It is possible to replace a seacock with the boat in the water though if you don't mind some water coming in and can handle a little excitement.
How to install?
I'd like to replace my gate valves with ball valves. There's a good case here for nylon. Would new nylon ball valves mated to the existing brass thru-hulls be appropriate? Or since the thru-hulls are brass should I stick with brass all the way? This would be for engine fresh water and for the head.
I'd like to replace my gate valves with ball valves. There's a good case here for nylon. Would new nylon ball valves mated to the existing brass thru-hulls be appropriate? Or since the thru-hulls are brass should I stick with brass all the way? This would be for engine fresh water and for the head.
Thruhull abuse
Several years ago, a 30+' powerboat dock across the finger pier from me. Before he was secure in the slip, his ship bumped the dock and a nylon thruhaul broke into two pieces. Good thing it was above the waterline. No nylon for me.
Several years ago, a 30+' powerboat dock across the finger pier from me. Before he was secure in the slip, his ship bumped the dock and a nylon thruhaul broke into two pieces. Good thing it was above the waterline. No nylon for me.
Jamed brass seacock
Had a frozen brass seacock on the galley sink. went overboard and pluged the thru hull and then replaced the brass seacock with a new marelon seacock. I now have a brass thru hull and a merelon seacock, works for me.
Had a frozen brass seacock on the galley sink. went overboard and pluged the thru hull and then replaced the brass seacock with a new marelon seacock. I now have a brass thru hull and a merelon seacock, works for me.
- Status