non skid replacement

[NYSail]

Hello all, I am in the process of having my P36-2 completely re-cored. The p/o's never rebed a stantion or deck hardware and now the poor boat has severe core rot. I have been researching different non-skid surfaces that can be done to the new deck and am looking for advise. I have read about the tread master, the different rubber type finishes, epoxy with sand mixed in, however nothing has bitten me. I want to do the job right and have it look new...not like a fix. The problem with these products, it seems like you can't find a floating example. You would think if the product worked so well they would have traveling shows to let the boating public see and feel what the product looks like on the boat. Any advise and recomendations would be greatly appreciated.GregP36-2Mt. Sinai, NY

 

[Jentine]

Overhead

Do the work from the inside. The damage there will be easier to hide.

 

[NYSail]

repair from underneath

The inside of my boat has a complete solid fiberglass liner making the inside not an option, unless I want to cut it and remove it completely and then redo the entire interior fiberglass as it is a rough finish under the liner....

 

[Steve Dion]

What type of non-skid surface does it have now?

[nm]

 

[Rick]

Recored Deck

How are you planning on separating the deck to be recored? Are you injecting Epoxy between the fiberglass into the core material? The cost of the project must come close to the value of the boat.

 

[Steve Dion]

Have you thought about removing deck sections?

Greg:Have you considered removing deck sections? I think a common method to repair something of this magnitude would be to remove the fiberglass/gelcoat sections of the deck. You would cut along the edge between the smooth gelcoat and the non-skid. You would want to be very careful to preserve these sections.Replace the rotted core and then glass the sections back in place. I think that this process would be much easier if there are large area of rot. A good glass/gelcoat person should be patch these pieces back in place without much problem. This would basically eliminate redoing the non-skid. This method would also work if you decide to use some of the other methods/products too.

 

[NYSail]

re-core job

I am going to remove section by section as I work from bow to sterm. Re-using the sections is an option I have thought about. On the Pearson, they have traditional print nonskid over the entire deck area with no spaces, so I would have to cut the areas out and then redo with spaces.I plan on cutting the top skin off, cleaning out the rotted/wet balsa core and then re-coring with nida core, which is a plastic honeycombed composite material. The cost of the project does not come close to the value of the boat. When I purchased her, this cost was a consideration. When I am done with this, I will have a 100% dry core that will never get wet again due to the nida core as water infiltrated into this area will not be able to migrate; it will stay in a tiny area. It will be like a new boat when I am finished.The layout and design of the 1986 P36-2 is exactly what the wife and I were looking for to have for the next 10+ years - she is a great boat! GregP36-2

 

[Dale]

Voids in the finished product???

Unless this is a perfect world I'm curious how you'd take a flat sheet of anything and get it to conform to a curved surface and then get both top and bottom sections back, even close, to there original thickness...and then get anything near full contact without the use of a shape conforming foam-fill...or something like that. It seems to me that there would enevitably be some soft spots on the walking surface in re-sandwiching the whole affair. I am not all that familiar with the honeycomb core material....but isn't it typically used to create entirely new bulkhead/hull sections with the finished product as a built-up assembly.IMHO

 

[NYSail]

nida core

The nida core comes in sheets and is a flexible material, not ridgid at all. It is light weight and extremely strong. It has material stuff (pardon my ignorance) on the top and bottom (no difference) surfaces that absorbs the expoxy so when it is put into the core, it will adhere perfectly conforming to the deck shape. When the top layer of fiberglass is put back on, weight is added to keep everything together until it has cured, thus no voids. I have a 1' X 8" sample of the product as well as a strip that was cut from a replaced deck the shop recently did. It bonds to the fiberglass completely.The shop I am working with specializes in completely replacing decks for Bertrums (sp). The owner redesigned a deck for a customer (using nida-core) and now people from all over the country contact him to make the new designed decks for their boats.

 

[NYSail]

flexability

When I said flexible.....not extremely, however it will conform easily the contours of the deck and cabin top. Very strong stuff.....I can bend the sample sheet I have into a 90 degree angle without any problem and it bounces right back.

 

[Nice N Easy]

Non Skid

NY Sail,You can buy a non skid product at Home Depot or Lowes, that is very good and cost is almost nothing. It is made of styrene, or some similar material, a lot like micro ballons. You just mix it in with your deck paint. I have used it a few times, although on things other than a boat deck. But it works well. Have used it on outside ramps, etc. and gives a nice non skid finish.

 

[higgs]

Non skid surface

Re non skid surfaces. I beleive Shannon uses, or has used Treadmaster. I used it years ago on my Paceship Eastwind. In the dozen or so years I used the stuff, I really liked it. It held up fine until I sold the boat. At one point a corner did start to come up, but it was an easy quick fix. Excellent traction when wet.

 

[Cliff R]

Durabak

I jst re did the whole non skid deck on my J 29 and it turned out looking better then I thought. Durabak is a product used on Ferry boats for the non skid on the deck. I was very pleased with how my boat turned out. I can send photos. cliffr@sbcglobal.netCliff J 29 Wolf Pack

 

[John]

durabak

Ive been thinking of durabak for my deck .I have some cracks that let water into my core and it needs to be fixed .I plan to recore the spots and then grind the nonskid off and paint it smooth I think i will fix the core one year and finish the top the next.I used some durabak on some truck beds and trailers then i put some on my keel to see how it would work and its great .Its been down there for two years and looks new I also coated steel and wood and sunk them under my dock just for a test.I think you should use one coat of nonskid and the second coat use the smooth durabak with out the rubber so it has less grit .The durabak is made in teneck NJ .I use it for garage floors and around pools .I think it would be great on a steel boat .John