No Raw-Water Flow for Yanmar 3HM - HELP!!!

Jul 19, 2013
12
Chris Craft Cherokee 32 Emeryville Marina, San Francisco Bay
I have a Yanmar 3HM that is repowering the original Atomic 4 aboard a 1969 Chris-Craft Cherokee 32 (Yes, Chris-Craft DID make sailboats!) which I bought last year. It sat at the dock sit for the better part of 9 years idle as a floating hobby boat (that just sat and rotted...ugh...) and "shag-shack" (for lack of a better term) for the previous 2 owners, and now, a year later, I was finally able to get the engine fired up. While the engine (now) fires up on the first try every time (that took awhile), the problem I am having is that there are only about 5-6 DRIPS per second coming out of the exhaust (and then, only at higher RPMs).

I've replaced the impeller with a brand-new Yanmar-certified one, checked to see that the seacock was open (yes, it was), checked the water filter (it's actually, believe it or not, fine and flows nicely), cleaned out the pump assembly thoroughly with both fine-grit sandpaper (!!!) and a vinegar solution, replaced the gasket (also with a Yanmar) with a new one, and...still nothing. Now, there are no leaks, and every thing LOOKED good, especially after I cleaned out the out-flow hose, which was COMPLETELY clogged with salt and mineral deposits, but, alas, still no water flow.

I hooked up a hose to our fresh-water supply from the marina (which has a very high pressure...actually, a little TOO high, truth be told, but that's neither here nor there) directly into the thermostat/bypass connection coming from the water pump, but still...nothing. I bypassed that directly and put it on the manifold intake, but again, nothing. No water, despite the pressure, was coming out of the exhaust.

Since this was repowered, it doesn't have the smooth flow-through of the original Atomic 4. That is, there isn't a nice mixing elbow going up to a vertical bend in the exhaust and out of the boat. Instead, from what I can see, it goes through TWO 90° elbows - one at the exhaust mix and another out of the muffler. I've tapped them with a mallet to see if this could loosen up anything that might be in there...hence, the drips I'm getting now.

I know that there is a blockage in there...somewhere...but the problem is that the Yanmar is a much larger engine, and I can't really get to where I could disconnect any hoses to see about cleaning them out in the "traditional" way (i.e; scraping out the crud with a screwdriver) without playing contortionist Yoga master...though I may have to before this is done.

What would you recommend in flushing the engine out? I've considered 50/50 mix of muriatic acid or some CLR, even just another vinegar solution, but am not certain about how I would get it in there, considering the strange setup that is in place now. I have a spare bilge pump (Rule 360) that I could probably use to keep the pressure on from a bucket intake, but that's about it. I also don't want to damage the hoses or any metallic parts, especially in the heat exchanger, so I'm a little leery about the acid flush. It IS, after all, an 8+ year-old engine (and I know that the parts haven't been changed in that time, despite the fact that they appear to be in good shape, especially all of the rubber hoses).

The engine runs strong, but there is just no flow, other than the drips.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks in advance!
 
Jul 19, 2013
12
Chris Craft Cherokee 32 Emeryville Marina, San Francisco Bay
Oh, and incidentally, I don't really have the $80.00 to throw into a Barnacle Buster mix, so it'll have to be something inexpensive. While I would PREFER something biodegradable and environmentally-friendly, the fact remains, this marina is...well...let's just say the EPA would have a field day if they investigated it with any integrity. Therefore, something that would dilute nicely after coming out is perfectly fine; hence, the aforementioned CLR or muriatic acid. I know, it's sad, and I hate to make that distinction, but I really want to get this boat working so I can get OUT of here and INTO a much better marina - but that won't happen unless I get ol' Betsy up and running without overheating in the (VERY) narrow channel leading out into the Bay, you know? ;-)
 
Jan 22, 2008
597
Oday 35 and Mariner 2+2 Alexandria, VA
I seem to recall the 3hm is a fresh water cooled engine. So the thermostat should have nothing to do with the raw water circuit. The pulsed outflow is normal on any engine with a vernalift or water muffler. Please do not flush the engine with acid. Find the raw water to fresh water heat exchanger and you will probably find the blockage.
Sometimes the heat exchanger can become blocked by debris from the zinc, an old impeller blade, or just crud. If you are not getting a good raw water flow to the exhaust, and you have good pressure/flow out of the pump, the I would bank on the heat exchanger being plugged up.
The parts breakdown can be found at
http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/c...odel=3HM&manufacturer=Yanmar&catalog=Y00R0902
 
Jul 19, 2013
12
Chris Craft Cherokee 32 Emeryville Marina, San Francisco Bay
Thanks, dparilla - this particular setup is raw-water only, but that may have been a foul-up from one of the previous owners. I'll look into the heat exchanger as a possible problem.

My main concern, however, is that it's only a few drips, rather than any actual flow, pulsed or otherwise. Like I mentioned, it's only about 5 drips a second, and then only at higher (above 3000) RPMs, which is why I'm concerned about it. No warning lights, but still...and the fact that I hooked up a hose to pump fresh water through at a decent pressure yielded nothing, this is my concern.

Nothing from the old impeller - in fact, the old impeller (and the ORIGINAL one) was still serviceable, oddly enough...it wasn't run much...as I mentioned, hobby boat and shag-shack...but there was a huge amount of crud in the old fuel, due to it sitting forever, as well as a huge amount of salt/mineral build-up in the hose coming out of the water pump, so that's why I'm leaning toward a blockage of some kind.

Still, I'll look into the heat exchanger breakdown and see if it's something that I can fix on my own (or...ulp...replace).

Yep...B.O.A.T.: Break Out Another Thousand. Le sigh...
 
Jul 19, 2013
12
Chris Craft Cherokee 32 Emeryville Marina, San Francisco Bay
Looking through the Yanmar Service Manual that I have for the 3HM, I am seeing that this is, in fact, intended as a raw-water cooling, rather than a fresh-water system. So, yeah, there's a deposit build-up somewhere.
 
Jul 19, 2013
12
Chris Craft Cherokee 32 Emeryville Marina, San Francisco Bay
Acid or vinegar solution? From the exhaust or the intake side? Is this even a viable solution? Yanmar 3HM (raw-water) running strong, no warning lights for the first few seconds of running at high RPMs (I've not tried it for longer) but only a few drips out of the exhaust. Fresh water flush at pressure yields nothing. Any suggestions on how I might go about clearing it and getting water flow? The engine is aft-mounted and taking up a lot of room, so there's very little room to work on it - any help is GREATLY appreciated. (New impeller, intake flowing nicely, outflow cleared of deposits/grime.)
 
Apr 11, 2005
57
Bayfield 36 Rock Creek
I keep going back to your statement that there are 2 90° elbows in the exhaust system. You've tapped them and some drips come out. I would think that this might be evidence that the tube is fully blocked and I would start there. Disassemble those elbows and I bet you will find them clogged.

Tod
 
May 24, 2004
7,164
CC 30 South Florida
Make sure the impeller does not have the rubber spinning on its hub. Happened to me once and could not figure what was happening for a little while. A brand new impeller was defective.
 
Nov 6, 2006
10,080
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Herrick is correct.. you'll need to disassemble the exhaust ell and clear it.. if one hose was clogged, (not sure which hose is outflow?) then ya probably have a clogged water inlet to the exhaust ell. You could check that by pulling the hose end that goes to the ell and blowing into it, toward the ell . The problem with flushing is that you need a fair flow to be able to accomplish anything.. without a flow established, ya can't flush.
Attached is a flow diagram of a raw water cooled 3HM cooling system
 

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Jul 19, 2013
12
Chris Craft Cherokee 32 Emeryville Marina, San Francisco Bay
Thanks, everyone - that's what I'm figuring as well, that the elbow(s) is/are clogged, probably from the previous owner having cranked the engine with bad fuel and a bad impeller, thinking it would just somehow miraculously start so he could ask for more money in the sale, then getting back-flushing and letting it sit there for however many years. (Then he boiled the batteries dry and let it continue to remain on a live charger - lucky the boat didn't just burn to the water line...yeah, he wasn't the brightest bulb in the pack, but that's another story.)

So, today and tomorrow, it looks like I'm going to be pulling everything out of the sail locker, crawling down in there, and having at it. Oh, this should be "fun". :doh:
 
Nov 6, 2006
10,080
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Good luck ! You should have a good flow of water from that nipple on the front of the exhaust manifold out through the exhaust elbow .. be careful to not fill the muffler when testing . This would back water up into the engine and make a mess.
 
Jul 19, 2013
12
Chris Craft Cherokee 32 Emeryville Marina, San Francisco Bay
Well, shoot. It doesn't appear that it's in the exhaust at all - this means a lot more work than I was wanting to do - namely disassembly of the thermostat and the bypass assembly through the manifold, and a vinegar or acid bath of the manifold itself. Oh, joy.
 

NYSail

.
Jan 6, 2006
3,143
Beneteau 423 Mt. Sinai, NY
I would have thought the mixing elbow..... Sitting that long the crud builds up and hardens.
 
Jul 19, 2013
12
Chris Craft Cherokee 32 Emeryville Marina, San Francisco Bay
It still may be - I can't seem to get that apart to check, but the hoses coming out of it were fine at least. I'm going to try a reverse flushing with a vinegar solution and see if that does anything.
 
Jul 21, 2013
333
Searching for 1st sailing boat 27-28, 34-36 Channel Islands, Marina Del Rey
Take both the elbows out and post pictures of the inside.
 

NYSail

.
Jan 6, 2006
3,143
Beneteau 423 Mt. Sinai, NY
Your vinegar won't work on an old mixing elbow. When I replaced mine when I bought my boat the water passage was at least 50% blocked...... Actually more. Limited water flow and killing engine
 
Jul 19, 2013
12
Chris Craft Cherokee 32 Emeryville Marina, San Francisco Bay
Yep, that's what I'm getting now. It's not in the engine itself - it's in that confounded mixing elbow that I can't get to without enduring serious pain during and afterward. But, it has to be done, and I can't train my cat to use tools, so...
 
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Apr 8, 2017
30
Hunter Cherubini 36' chherubini Poughkeepsie
Hi Guys
Sorry to interrupt
I have a newly purchased 1981 36' hunter cherubini
New at inboards and boats this big
Just had iit dewinterized

First time out 2 hrs sailing 1/2 hr or so motoring back and the warning light went on with buzzer
Yanmar 20hp?
Limped in after sailing to the marina
(Great 1st sail for the wife, who still likes the boat!)

Checked the fresh water pump its pumping out (screen clean, impeller in good shape)

I have not checked the sea water pump yet (wife asleep, and I think II need help to disconnect hose and start motor)

Don't see any significant water ouut the stern, butt I'm not sure what I'm lookiinhg for

Very reassuring when the service guy (kid) said he's not sure and has trouble gettting Yanmar parts!


The digital knot display reads 0 also separate problem

Other stuff also port water tank valve clogged , natural gas tank reads gas but empty when disconnected at regulator.


HELP what's up with the water?