I became the owner of a 1985 37 cutter last week. The fresh water system worked fine during the sea trial, including the shower sump. Now no power at the pump under the galley sink, with the battary switches on and the panel switch light illuminated for the pressure water switch. All other electrical systems work and there is good charge in the battaries. When I added electricity from a battary charger connected to a couple of probes to the wire connectors right at the pump motor, the pump worked fine, as did the shower sump at the same time. So, before I start doing some destructive investigation, is the fresh water pump normally fused and if so, where should I start by search. Also, as a general questions, I assume that the panel switches are not circuit breakers, is this correct.
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Jerry
I replaced the pump in my 1981..
and it was not fused separate. The "switches" on my panel are circuit breakers, and there are two breakers for the two pumps. The pressure water breaker is the second from the bottom in the first (aft) row, and the shower sump is the bottom breaker in the second (middle) row. Of course the 3rd row (forward) is AC. It sounds like Hunter changed the layout in 85', or someone did some wiring changes. If you applied power direct to the pump and it worked, you sure have a wiring problem. Good luck! Look in the archives for H37C wiring diagrams.
and it was not fused separate. The "switches" on my panel are circuit breakers, and there are two breakers for the two pumps. The pressure water breaker is the second from the bottom in the first (aft) row, and the shower sump is the bottom breaker in the second (middle) row. Of course the 3rd row (forward) is AC. It sounds like Hunter changed the layout in 85', or someone did some wiring changes. If you applied power direct to the pump and it worked, you sure have a wiring problem. Good luck! Look in the archives for H37C wiring diagrams.
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Ed Schenck
As Jerry said. . .
the panel switches are also circuit breakers. And they do go bad, have had it happen. Easy test is to use your pump tester and connect to pump side of that circuit breaker. If that doesn't work then it is time to run a new wire. I don't think you will be able to find a break in those bundles but you could try. If there is a fuse someplace I have not found it. And the wiring diagrams that have been around have nowhere near the detail you would need. I have an 8.5 x 14 factory diagram at home and you cannot see a fuse or where the wires go.
the panel switches are also circuit breakers. And they do go bad, have had it happen. Easy test is to use your pump tester and connect to pump side of that circuit breaker. If that doesn't work then it is time to run a new wire. I don't think you will be able to find a break in those bundles but you could try. If there is a fuse someplace I have not found it. And the wiring diagrams that have been around have nowhere near the detail you would need. I have an 8.5 x 14 factory diagram at home and you cannot see a fuse or where the wires go.
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Scott Wilson
Thanks Ed re water pump
If the indicator light is illuminated when I turn on the panel switch for pressure water, does this "prove" that the curcuit breaker switch has not failed?
If the indicator light is illuminated when I turn on the panel switch for pressure water, does this "prove" that the curcuit breaker switch has not failed?
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Dave Simpson
Pump failure
What gets me is that the pump worked during the sea trial; was that recent? Merely defeating the breaker by "jumping" will tell you if the breaker is the culprit. If not, and the pump operates when power is applied directly, then there is probably a break in the wire from the "Load" side of the breaker to the pump. Easily cured with a brand new wire!
What gets me is that the pump worked during the sea trial; was that recent? Merely defeating the breaker by "jumping" will tell you if the breaker is the culprit. If not, and the pump operates when power is applied directly, then there is probably a break in the wire from the "Load" side of the breaker to the pump. Easily cured with a brand new wire!
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Ed Schenck
C/B light.
The breakers on my old H37C are not lighted so no experience. But I can imagine that a breaker switch could be lit and still not pass 12 volts through. Using your tester or jumping it as Dave suggests will quickly prove this out. I carry a piece of #12 wire with alligator clips for just such occasions.
The breakers on my old H37C are not lighted so no experience. But I can imagine that a breaker switch could be lit and still not pass 12 volts through. Using your tester or jumping it as Dave suggests will quickly prove this out. I carry a piece of #12 wire with alligator clips for just such occasions.
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Mark
Sticky Diaphram
After purchasing my '81 H37C I had an intermittent problem with my fresh water pump. At times it would not work as if it did not have power. As it turned out the diaphram which senses discharge pressure was sticky and a few taps and exercising the diaphram by cycling the set screw on top of the pump fixed the problem. Before any destructive testing, recommend checking the voltage going to your pump. The added voltage from the charger may be overcoming a sticky diaphram.
After purchasing my '81 H37C I had an intermittent problem with my fresh water pump. At times it would not work as if it did not have power. As it turned out the diaphram which senses discharge pressure was sticky and a few taps and exercising the diaphram by cycling the set screw on top of the pump fixed the problem. Before any destructive testing, recommend checking the voltage going to your pump. The added voltage from the charger may be overcoming a sticky diaphram.
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Peggie Hall/HeadMistress
Mark, I'd replace the diaphragm if I were you
When rubber becomes sticky, it's deteriorating. Sooner or later it's gonna develop a leak that'll cause your pump to cycle for no reason and then run without pumping any water. Diaphragm kits are inexpensive and easy to install.
When rubber becomes sticky, it's deteriorating. Sooner or later it's gonna develop a leak that'll cause your pump to cycle for no reason and then run without pumping any water. Diaphragm kits are inexpensive and easy to install.
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Ed
My vote
Is for a bad circut breaker, if the pump works when you apply power directly to it..MYST is a '79, all the "switches" on the panel are cb's and I have replaced 2 so far, and plan on more when they fail, after the second one failed I bought a spare for each size to carry with us..Ours are not lit, so I can't help you there..Good luck with it..Let us know what you found..73 Ed bt
Is for a bad circut breaker, if the pump works when you apply power directly to it..MYST is a '79, all the "switches" on the panel are cb's and I have replaced 2 so far, and plan on more when they fail, after the second one failed I bought a spare for each size to carry with us..Ours are not lit, so I can't help you there..Good luck with it..Let us know what you found..73 Ed bt
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Scott Wilson
Thanks all re water pump responses
So, since there is no power at the pump (checked with voltmeter) and there is no known fuse other than panel switch/breaker, I am going to take the panel out and "jump" the pressure water switch by putting a wire across the terminals on both sides of the switch, with the battery/DC switch on. If the pump runs, I will replace the switch on the panel. If the pump is dead when the switch is jumped, I will run a wire from the load side of the switch across the cabin sole to pump. If pump then works, I will actually run the wire properly. Meanwhile, I will develope upper body toning by operating the counter top push/pull manual pump. Thank you to all for your responses. I read this bullitin board for a couple of months after I was serious on making an offer for a Hunter 37. So I know where to look for info when it comes time to replace the "hidden" holding tank under the shower stall seat.
So, since there is no power at the pump (checked with voltmeter) and there is no known fuse other than panel switch/breaker, I am going to take the panel out and "jump" the pressure water switch by putting a wire across the terminals on both sides of the switch, with the battery/DC switch on. If the pump runs, I will replace the switch on the panel. If the pump is dead when the switch is jumped, I will run a wire from the load side of the switch across the cabin sole to pump. If pump then works, I will actually run the wire properly. Meanwhile, I will develope upper body toning by operating the counter top push/pull manual pump. Thank you to all for your responses. I read this bullitin board for a couple of months after I was serious on making an offer for a Hunter 37. So I know where to look for info when it comes time to replace the "hidden" holding tank under the shower stall seat.
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Dave Simpson
What Hidden Holding Tank? ........
I think all that poop goes into the sewer, like at home........well, doesn't it? It HAS to go somewhere...!!!??? Actually................ Am sitting here on a mooring in beautiful Avalon Bay, hoping that after 15 years of CONSTANT use, that little bugger under the shower seat holds together!
I think all that poop goes into the sewer, like at home........well, doesn't it? It HAS to go somewhere...!!!??? Actually................ Am sitting here on a mooring in beautiful Avalon Bay, hoping that after 15 years of CONSTANT use, that little bugger under the shower seat holds together!
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