We recently replaced the original Ferryman engine in our CAL 2-29 with a 2GM Yanmar. We replaced the old two blade prop with a three blade. Before, the boat steered well in reverse. Now there is NO control at all which makes departing the slip a real challenge. The person that moved our boat to the new slip told us our boat was "under propped" but offered no suggestions. Can anyone offer some good advice on how to correct this problem? We are pulling the boat for a bottom job next month and would like to get it done then. Thank you.
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Fred Ficarra
Jim, I don't understand how your boat can have no
control in reverse. Do you mean that the boat does not BACK UP? i.e.; reverse not engaging. It sounds like your saying that she doesn't steer where desired. That can't be, can it? Assuming that you are not getting a good reversing action, check your transmissions shift lever. The cable, when in reverse, should move the lever all the way to it's stop. You can check the lever travel with the cable disconnected. These gear boxes don't need much lever movement to work as desired though. Good luck.
control in reverse. Do you mean that the boat does not BACK UP? i.e.; reverse not engaging. It sounds like your saying that she doesn't steer where desired. That can't be, can it? Assuming that you are not getting a good reversing action, check your transmissions shift lever. The cable, when in reverse, should move the lever all the way to it's stop. You can check the lever travel with the cable disconnected. These gear boxes don't need much lever movement to work as desired though. Good luck.
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Trevor - SailboatOwners.com
3 blade usually = more prop walk
Hi Jim - There may be more to your problem (i.e. transmission issues), but I do know that along with increased torque going forward, you'll likely get increased prop walk when shifting into reverse. The only way to overcome this is to get the boat moving backwards as quickly as possible and then shift into neutral. Now the rudder takes over and steers the boat without interference from the prop. Another way to get water moving over the rudder is to drag the boat out with the docklines before adding any prop. In my experience, I find that turning the rudder 1/2 way to one side (not all the way over) tends to grab the transom and start the turn faster. There may be some adjustments you can make to the prop, but try practicing several times and see if you can learn some techniques that will help you. Best of luck, Trevor
Hi Jim - There may be more to your problem (i.e. transmission issues), but I do know that along with increased torque going forward, you'll likely get increased prop walk when shifting into reverse. The only way to overcome this is to get the boat moving backwards as quickly as possible and then shift into neutral. Now the rudder takes over and steers the boat without interference from the prop. Another way to get water moving over the rudder is to drag the boat out with the docklines before adding any prop. In my experience, I find that turning the rudder 1/2 way to one side (not all the way over) tends to grab the transom and start the turn faster. There may be some adjustments you can make to the prop, but try practicing several times and see if you can learn some techniques that will help you. Best of luck, Trevor
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Allen
The right idea...
Jim, I agree with Trevor. I think that you will find that you will have control once you build up enough speed for the rudder to take over from the sideways torque created by the prop. The problem is, that you'll never be able to get that kind of speed backing out of the slip. I found that it was easier to start "walking" the boat out of the slip, either by the dock lines or pushing on the pilings. Then, bump it in reverse to keep it moving, shift to neutral for control, and bump it into reverse again if needed. Oh...and pray for wind from the correct direction. After awhile you'll find that it gets easier. Good luck. ;D
Jim, I agree with Trevor. I think that you will find that you will have control once you build up enough speed for the rudder to take over from the sideways torque created by the prop. The problem is, that you'll never be able to get that kind of speed backing out of the slip. I found that it was easier to start "walking" the boat out of the slip, either by the dock lines or pushing on the pilings. Then, bump it in reverse to keep it moving, shift to neutral for control, and bump it into reverse again if needed. Oh...and pray for wind from the correct direction. After awhile you'll find that it gets easier. Good luck. ;D
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Steve
A little control... keep the rudder amidships unti
The trick is to get water over the rudder. Put the engine in reverse with the rudder amidships till the boat actually starts moving. Don't have to be going very fast but DO have to be moving. As soon as your speed goes up from zero, put the rudder over no more than 45 degrees. Putting it hard over will block the water flow from the rudder and stop the boat. I made this mistake the first time I used our "new" old boat. Had NO steering control with the rudder all the way over. Nothing, till I put it amidships and then moved it SLIGHTLY (up to 45 degrees) in the direction I wanted it. Hope this helps. Steve
The trick is to get water over the rudder. Put the engine in reverse with the rudder amidships till the boat actually starts moving. Don't have to be going very fast but DO have to be moving. As soon as your speed goes up from zero, put the rudder over no more than 45 degrees. Putting it hard over will block the water flow from the rudder and stop the boat. I made this mistake the first time I used our "new" old boat. Had NO steering control with the rudder all the way over. Nothing, till I put it amidships and then moved it SLIGHTLY (up to 45 degrees) in the direction I wanted it. Hope this helps. Steve
Contact Bob Kilian at Bay Props.
Jim: Contact Bob Kilian at Bay Props in Alameda, CA. Talk to him about the correct prop for your boat/engine/transmission combo. They may be able to rework your prop into one of their no-slip-tip props.
Jim: Contact Bob Kilian at Bay Props in Alameda, CA. Talk to him about the correct prop for your boat/engine/transmission combo. They may be able to rework your prop into one of their no-slip-tip props.
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Tim Donley
Backing
Something that seems to work where the rudder and prop have a fair separation is to put in gear to start headway then shift to nuetral and coast then repeat as often as needed. This keeps the prop from clawing its way over. My boat will back perfect then it will start pulling and then has its own mind. Maybe this will help.
Something that seems to work where the rudder and prop have a fair separation is to put in gear to start headway then shift to nuetral and coast then repeat as often as needed. This keeps the prop from clawing its way over. My boat will back perfect then it will start pulling and then has its own mind. Maybe this will help.
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Fred Ficarra
Jim, Knock Knock, are you there?
Need more info. The answers we're giving you are based on assumptions.
Need more info. The answers we're giving you are based on assumptions.
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Jim
Steve and all offering helpful advice-Thanks.
Steve, you are the man. Your advice worked like a charm. With a line held to keep the aft section close to the dock and a good shove off,we got ourselves straight and into forward w/o incident despite 12knot winds. Thanks to all that offered constructive advice.
Steve, you are the man. Your advice worked like a charm. With a line held to keep the aft section close to the dock and a good shove off,we got ourselves straight and into forward w/o incident despite 12knot winds. Thanks to all that offered constructive advice.
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