Hey again, Standing rigging question. I have an old CDI FF2 furler that came from a larger boat, so it's 2 feet longer than I need. The bottom part is a swaged on turnbuckle that I want to leave as is. But the top swaged eye I do have to cut off to make the forestay shorter. Question is, can I use a nicropressed loop with a thimble instead of the swage-eye? If not, Is it possible to swage a new eye on it "at home" without taking the whole thing to a rigging shop? (I would hate to coil that extrusion up again..it took me so long to get it straight)... ...Just for your info, my forestay is a 1x19 3/16 stainless wire rope.
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turnbuckle
What kind of turnbuckle do you have that you can't just take it apart?? I have a CDI FF2 and had a forestay made for it. When installing it I unscerwed the turnbuckle, slid the threadded, swaged on, part through the FF2 and then reattached the turnbuckle. Chris M25 Chara
What kind of turnbuckle do you have that you can't just take it apart?? I have a CDI FF2 and had a forestay made for it. When installing it I unscerwed the turnbuckle, slid the threadded, swaged on, part through the FF2 and then reattached the turnbuckle. Chris M25 Chara
I agree with Chris
You should not hesitate to take apart the CDI drum and remove the turnbuckle. The headstay should then pull through the extrusion and you can leave it flat in your backyard, on the roof or anywhere you wish. Taking apart the turnbuckle is something you should learn to do. It should at least be inspected every season so just learn to do it. It's not that hard. I'd go for the swaged eye change. Nicropress sleeves just aren't as strong or dependable as a good swaged eye. I'm going to get a lot of mail saying it ain't so but those people can go their way and I safely go mine. Having your mast come down at some inopertune moment is reason enough. I experienced a tornado and lost all my rigging on a Com Pac 27/2. Three of the stays were torn apart about 1/2" from the swaged end. That's strong on 5/16" cable. Nicropress sleeves won't hold up that well. Be as safe as you can. Go online at CDI and print the manual for your furler, you can do it. Steve P.
You should not hesitate to take apart the CDI drum and remove the turnbuckle. The headstay should then pull through the extrusion and you can leave it flat in your backyard, on the roof or anywhere you wish. Taking apart the turnbuckle is something you should learn to do. It should at least be inspected every season so just learn to do it. It's not that hard. I'd go for the swaged eye change. Nicropress sleeves just aren't as strong or dependable as a good swaged eye. I'm going to get a lot of mail saying it ain't so but those people can go their way and I safely go mine. Having your mast come down at some inopertune moment is reason enough. I experienced a tornado and lost all my rigging on a Com Pac 27/2. Three of the stays were torn apart about 1/2" from the swaged end. That's strong on 5/16" cable. Nicropress sleeves won't hold up that well. Be as safe as you can. Go online at CDI and print the manual for your furler, you can do it. Steve P.
Either Or
I just installed a CDI FF2 on my MAC 25 a few weeks ago. Took the precaution to purchase a complete forestay from Sail Warehouse. Cost 109 bucks, but was gauranteed to fit my boat. It has a swaged eye at the top and an open faced turnbuckle at the bow-end. Either way, at the halyard swivel end of the foil (top part) closest to the mast, there is about two or three inches clearance from the eye&pin plate mounted on the mast ... but all that is determined by the sail clothe dimension that will wrap itself on the foil. If I ain't mistaken it is the length of the forestay minus one and one quarter foot. That will be the length of the foil extrusion after you cut it. But part of that will be taken up by the length of the turnbuckle as well. So the important thing to remember to jot down is the length of the forestay once you finished cutting it. It should be the measurement from anchor pin to anchor pin. Nothing like installing the forestay and then trying to send up a tape measure to measure it because it ain't easy. So it seems to me whichever method would work okay. If you choose a nicopressed thimble than a swivel/eye type, I couldn't see where the difference would matter. Especially since the forestay is first mounted to the mast end with the remaining end free to slide through the flexible foil extrusion before mounting to the drum assembly and turnbuckle. I would say 'go for it! But a word of caution on the shortening of your new forestay; Measure twice and cut once. Same applies to the extrusion. I strongly recommend going over the manual a number of times so as to get yourself well acqainted with the operation. And above all, pick a friend to help you do this and make certain you have plenty of time. Mine took longer than I anticipated (nearly all day), because I had to read and re-read every step to make certain there would be no mistakes. Good luck 'ol buddy. Tom
I just installed a CDI FF2 on my MAC 25 a few weeks ago. Took the precaution to purchase a complete forestay from Sail Warehouse. Cost 109 bucks, but was gauranteed to fit my boat. It has a swaged eye at the top and an open faced turnbuckle at the bow-end. Either way, at the halyard swivel end of the foil (top part) closest to the mast, there is about two or three inches clearance from the eye&pin plate mounted on the mast ... but all that is determined by the sail clothe dimension that will wrap itself on the foil. If I ain't mistaken it is the length of the forestay minus one and one quarter foot. That will be the length of the foil extrusion after you cut it. But part of that will be taken up by the length of the turnbuckle as well. So the important thing to remember to jot down is the length of the forestay once you finished cutting it. It should be the measurement from anchor pin to anchor pin. Nothing like installing the forestay and then trying to send up a tape measure to measure it because it ain't easy. So it seems to me whichever method would work okay. If you choose a nicopressed thimble than a swivel/eye type, I couldn't see where the difference would matter. Especially since the forestay is first mounted to the mast end with the remaining end free to slide through the flexible foil extrusion before mounting to the drum assembly and turnbuckle. I would say 'go for it! But a word of caution on the shortening of your new forestay; Measure twice and cut once. Same applies to the extrusion. I strongly recommend going over the manual a number of times so as to get yourself well acqainted with the operation. And above all, pick a friend to help you do this and make certain you have plenty of time. Mine took longer than I anticipated (nearly all day), because I had to read and re-read every step to make certain there would be no mistakes. Good luck 'ol buddy. Tom
turnbuckle
Guys, thanks for your input. The turnbuckle is an original (1/4in) one that came with CDI. CDI is a very simple design and I have no problem taking it all apart(and I did)turnbuckle rod did pull thru the extrusion, but not freely, I had to pull it), my only problem is that I would have to coil it and transport it to a rigging shop...I wanted to be able to fix it all myself, but, I guess, I have no choice...better save than sorry
THANKS
Guys, thanks for your input. The turnbuckle is an original (1/4in) one that came with CDI. CDI is a very simple design and I have no problem taking it all apart(and I did)turnbuckle rod did pull thru the extrusion, but not freely, I had to pull it), my only problem is that I would have to coil it and transport it to a rigging shop...I wanted to be able to fix it all myself, but, I guess, I have no choice...better save than sorry
THANKS- Status