I have an older model Hood roller furling attached to a boat I just bought & am encountering a perplexing problem. When I bent the genoa on and raised it up I could not roll the sail up without it jamming. I've checked the masthead and nothing is in the way, but it turns out the wire halyard is wrapping itself around the forestay, around what appears to be a spring at the top. I've tried this several times, all with the same result- the sail wraps 2-3 times, then jams, wire around the spring. I'm attaching a picture which shows what I'm talking about- it almost looks like something is missing, but I'm not familiar enough with these to know the difference. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated, since I really want to take advantage of this sailing weather here in VA! John
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Tension
Two things. Make sure the sail is fully hoisted, the top swivel should be within 5" of the top of the foil. Make sure there is plenty of halyard tension before you try to roll the sail up. It is remotely possible that the bearing in the halyard swivel is binding, but that is pretty rare. My bet is that the sail is short on the luff or the halyard does not have enough tension.
Two things. Make sure the sail is fully hoisted, the top swivel should be within 5" of the top of the foil. Make sure there is plenty of halyard tension before you try to roll the sail up. It is remotely possible that the bearing in the halyard swivel is binding, but that is pretty rare. My bet is that the sail is short on the luff or the halyard does not have enough tension.
It appears that your halyard needs to have a retainer on the mast to increase the angle between the headstay and the halyard. This will prevent 'halyard wrap' which is what is causing the sail to stop furling. You could also try increasing the tension on the halyard prior to furling but that may not work.
Halyard wrap
Halyard wrap is usually because the swivel is not hoisted high enough. If your sail is less than a full hoist try a wire pennant either at the head or the tack. I prefer it at the tack so I can see under the sail but some prefer it at the head to keep the sail lower.
Halyard wrap is usually because the swivel is not hoisted high enough. If your sail is less than a full hoist try a wire pennant either at the head or the tack. I prefer it at the tack so I can see under the sail but some prefer it at the head to keep the sail lower.
Obvious question perhaps...
Have you asked the previous owner? I agree that fully hoisting, adn some halyard tension might help. I've also seen installations with a pad eye on the mast below the halyard sheave through which the halyard is rove, so that when the sail is fully hoisted the angle of the halyard leaving the top spool is closer to 45 degrees. My Profurl has a plastic thing on the stay that engages the halyard fitting to stop it from rotating.
Have you asked the previous owner? I agree that fully hoisting, adn some halyard tension might help. I've also seen installations with a pad eye on the mast below the halyard sheave through which the halyard is rove, so that when the sail is fully hoisted the angle of the halyard leaving the top spool is closer to 45 degrees. My Profurl has a plastic thing on the stay that engages the halyard fitting to stop it from rotating.
tension, parts, and previous owners...
The previous owner has moved out of the state, and I have no way to contact him, so no possibility there. I've tightened up the halyard as much as possible before trying to wrap it, and I would say the top of the swivel is no more than 5" from the top & can't go further because it runs out of track. There is absolutely no adjustment on the furler, top or bottom, and the bearings spin freely when not loaded. Looking at the picture of the masthead, I can't see how the entire roll can spin freely without wrapping itself up, properly tensioned or not, which is why I suspected something may have broken off.
The previous owner has moved out of the state, and I have no way to contact him, so no possibility there. I've tightened up the halyard as much as possible before trying to wrap it, and I would say the top of the swivel is no more than 5" from the top & can't go further because it runs out of track. There is absolutely no adjustment on the furler, top or bottom, and the bearings spin freely when not loaded. Looking at the picture of the masthead, I can't see how the entire roll can spin freely without wrapping itself up, properly tensioned or not, which is why I suspected something may have broken off.
Questions
1. Does the foil rotate freely? Given the top piece is two pieces that rotate relative to one another: 2. is the head shackle (lower) part rotating with hte foil, i.e., locked to the foil? 3. is the halyard (top) part free to rotate relative to the foil? 4. Have you tried manually loading hte bearing and rotating it? 5. What' the model number/name of this furler?
1. Does the foil rotate freely? Given the top piece is two pieces that rotate relative to one another: 2. is the head shackle (lower) part rotating with hte foil, i.e., locked to the foil? 3. is the halyard (top) part free to rotate relative to the foil? 4. Have you tried manually loading hte bearing and rotating it? 5. What' the model number/name of this furler?
Hood Sea Furl
The two fixed tack fittings on the drum and the opposing luff groves make it a Sea Furl. The Cast line guide makes it a Size B or C (the A's had wire line guides). The Halyard swivel is a MkII. The furler is old, there is no evidence that it ever had a halyard restrainer. It is safe to assume that it used to work without a restrainer, so it should work without one now. There are two swivel inserts that fit inside the swivel that hold the swivel aligned with the foil, the halyard swivel has a single ball bearing in the top. The halyard swivel must turn freely under load, the inserts keep it aligned with the foil so it can spin. The part # for the inserts is D1975 for the unit B and D1976 for the unit C. The bearing is A2005, the complete assembly (less inserts and shackle) is D2010. My notes show that a SKF 6015-DDU bearing will work in the swivel. I show the 1997 price of the bearing as $194.99 from Hood. Inserts run $72.66 or $83.30 each (in 1997). Unless the bearing is bad or the inserts are worn/missing the only things that will keep the halyard swivel from working correctly are luff length and halyard tension. Try this, run the halyard swivel up the foil until it touches the washers at the top of the foil. Mark your halyard at full hoist. Hoist the sail and see how close to the top of the foil you are. If the swivel is not within 5" of full hoist, the sail needs a pennant.
The two fixed tack fittings on the drum and the opposing luff groves make it a Sea Furl. The Cast line guide makes it a Size B or C (the A's had wire line guides). The Halyard swivel is a MkII. The furler is old, there is no evidence that it ever had a halyard restrainer. It is safe to assume that it used to work without a restrainer, so it should work without one now. There are two swivel inserts that fit inside the swivel that hold the swivel aligned with the foil, the halyard swivel has a single ball bearing in the top. The halyard swivel must turn freely under load, the inserts keep it aligned with the foil so it can spin. The part # for the inserts is D1975 for the unit B and D1976 for the unit C. The bearing is A2005, the complete assembly (less inserts and shackle) is D2010. My notes show that a SKF 6015-DDU bearing will work in the swivel. I show the 1997 price of the bearing as $194.99 from Hood. Inserts run $72.66 or $83.30 each (in 1997). Unless the bearing is bad or the inserts are worn/missing the only things that will keep the halyard swivel from working correctly are luff length and halyard tension. Try this, run the halyard swivel up the foil until it touches the washers at the top of the foil. Mark your halyard at full hoist. Hoist the sail and see how close to the top of the foil you are. If the swivel is not within 5" of full hoist, the sail needs a pennant.
Roller Reef
I think I would rig a fake sail with a five foot luff. Try to furl it and you can see what's happening right at eye level then work from there to solve the problem
I think I would rig a fake sail with a five foot luff. Try to furl it and you can see what's happening right at eye level then work from there to solve the problem
RF
I have a CDI roller furler installed on my 24' boat. I have experienced the frustration of having the furler jam. Take this advice with a grain of salt because the hood furler may be very different from the CDI, but what I have found out is that the halyard adjustment must be right, and ALSO, the backstay tension must be right too. Literally, a quarter of an inch of tightening on the backstay turnbuckle has made the difference between jamming and smooth deployment if the headsail. Lemme know if this helps. I miss the old hank on jib. Eric
I have a CDI roller furler installed on my 24' boat. I have experienced the frustration of having the furler jam. Take this advice with a grain of salt because the hood furler may be very different from the CDI, but what I have found out is that the halyard adjustment must be right, and ALSO, the backstay tension must be right too. Literally, a quarter of an inch of tightening on the backstay turnbuckle has made the difference between jamming and smooth deployment if the headsail. Lemme know if this helps. I miss the old hank on jib. Eric
Halyard fairlead
As mentioned, if the sail luff is shorter than the headstay, you need a pendant at the head to allow the top spinner to go all the way to the top of the foil. Apparenlty, just being a little off on the length of the pendant can lead to big problems with the halyard wrapping around the foil. The rigger who was working on my boat in May recommended that I add a fixed block about six inches down from the top of the mast for the halyard. The halyard goes up inside the mast, out through the sheave at the top and down through the extra block before it is attached to the furler. This way the halyard is not in line with the headstay when the sail is hoisted. This changes the angle so the halyard can't wrap.
As mentioned, if the sail luff is shorter than the headstay, you need a pendant at the head to allow the top spinner to go all the way to the top of the foil. Apparenlty, just being a little off on the length of the pendant can lead to big problems with the halyard wrapping around the foil. The rigger who was working on my boat in May recommended that I add a fixed block about six inches down from the top of the mast for the halyard. The halyard goes up inside the mast, out through the sheave at the top and down through the extra block before it is attached to the furler. This way the halyard is not in line with the headstay when the sail is hoisted. This changes the angle so the halyard can't wrap.
Call Pompanette
If you call Pompanette (813) 885-2182, they can fax you the manual for your system. Then you can see if you have any parts missing, and if everything's set up right. Also, you could look here http://www.pompanette.com/hood, click on Online Catalog - they have diagrams of their different systems, and some replacement parts. I have an old system that wouldn't turn easily (it took two hands on the drum to unfurl the final 8 feet). They were very helpful even though my system was so old. With the manual, I was able to take apart the old system, clean it up and replace the bearings & lube for about $2.50. Now I can easily furl with one hand. My guess would be the halyard angle, as mentioned before, or possibly a dent in the bearing race. You say it spins freely with no load - can you feel any bumps or resistance if you try to turn it while you're pulling down on it? Good luck, Kevin
If you call Pompanette (813) 885-2182, they can fax you the manual for your system. Then you can see if you have any parts missing, and if everything's set up right. Also, you could look here http://www.pompanette.com/hood, click on Online Catalog - they have diagrams of their different systems, and some replacement parts. I have an old system that wouldn't turn easily (it took two hands on the drum to unfurl the final 8 feet). They were very helpful even though my system was so old. With the manual, I was able to take apart the old system, clean it up and replace the bearings & lube for about $2.50. Now I can easily furl with one hand. My guess would be the halyard angle, as mentioned before, or possibly a dent in the bearing race. You say it spins freely with no load - can you feel any bumps or resistance if you try to turn it while you're pulling down on it? Good luck, Kevin
easy test
an easy test is to hoist the sail without attaching the tack - then furl it. If it furls, you need the pennant which you can attach at the head or the tack. If you don't mind attaching at the tack, a good trick is to tie off 1/8 to 1/4 line to the sail tack, run it through the shackle and tack a few times and then secure with a hitch.
an easy test is to hoist the sail without attaching the tack - then furl it. If it furls, you need the pennant which you can attach at the head or the tack. If you don't mind attaching at the tack, a good trick is to tie off 1/8 to 1/4 line to the sail tack, run it through the shackle and tack a few times and then secure with a hitch.
Wow
Great responses! Thanks! I called Pompanette today, and according to the Hood rep this is a 30 year old system & they no longer make replacement parts for it. I'm still not sure I need the bearings, but it would be nice to know that they were available if I did need them. I can't wait to get to the boat this weekend and try all the great suggestions mentioned here. Will reply back with the results.........
Great responses! Thanks! I called Pompanette today, and according to the Hood rep this is a 30 year old system & they no longer make replacement parts for it. I'm still not sure I need the bearings, but it would be nice to know that they were available if I did need them. I can't wait to get to the boat this weekend and try all the great suggestions mentioned here. Will reply back with the results.........
If you do need bearings...
If you do need bearings, I got mine at a bike shop. I took some of the old ones in, they used calipers to find the size, and I was on my way in a few minutes. Did Pompanette fax you a manual? If not, let me know and I can fax or email you the one they sent to me. It wasn't an exact match, but it was close enough for me to figure it out. Kevin
If you do need bearings, I got mine at a bike shop. I took some of the old ones in, they used calipers to find the size, and I was on my way in a few minutes. Did Pompanette fax you a manual? If not, let me know and I can fax or email you the one they sent to me. It wasn't an exact match, but it was close enough for me to figure it out. Kevin
had that problem
You might want to look at the halyard in the down position to make sure it isn't wrapped around the forstay. That was the real problem mine screwed up. It sounds stupid, but once I unwrapped it, no problem.
You might want to look at the halyard in the down position to make sure it isn't wrapped around the forstay. That was the real problem mine screwed up. It sounds stupid, but once I unwrapped it, no problem.
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