New toilet install question

[Cpt. Jon]

I recently purchased a new toilet to replace the 30 year old WC (or something like that), we went with the jabsco (I know I know, but we just ordered a new main sail too, so budgeting a little). I don't think the bolt holes are going to line up from the original toilet to the new one and I am a little confused as to how to fasten the new toilet to the boat as there doesn't seem to many areas to access the underside of where the toilet sits.

The boat is a 1980 Hunter 30... any ideas or experiences would be appreciated!

 

[Tim R.]

Thru-bolt if you can. You can always create access by cutting a hole and attaching a Beckson port later. They also come in beige and white.

 

[Clark]

I second what Tim said. However, if there is no good place to make an access hole, many have used lag bolts. There is usually plenty of glass or plywood under there to take them. Just select the proper drill size and countersink the hole a bit to prevent cracking.

 

[Steve Dion]

Be sure to re-fill the old holes so water does not rot the existing platform.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Tim's idea is good, and would be certainly preferable offshore, but 90% of boats use lag bolts. This is a recurring question that comes up regularly: How do I access the nuts under the bolts in my head? You're not first and won't be the last...

 

[bobtigar]

cut a piece of 1/2" starboard the size of the platform and overlay on the old platform and screw down. Bob

 

[Cpt. Jon]

Thanks for the replies! Tim, good idea, I may go with that, I do prefer the more solid option. I figured this question came up a lot, but I guess when I was searching the forums (and google) my keyword selection wasn't the best because I couldn't find this information even after searching through pages of results... but there are a lot of toilet questions out there!

It was a little funny when I went to look at the spots Ithought I would be able to access the bottom side from and there was no access...

 

[Steve Dion]

My experience with these toilets is sometimes a couple of the old holes will line up so you only need to drill one or two more.

I have not had a toilet platform that really had any access or room for any additional access so lag bolts were the only solution. Just fill the old holes with caulking and be done with it is my solution.

 

[Cpt. Jon]

I'll check it out... there isn't a whole lot of room up there. I won't get around to it until this weekend at best I think. I'd sure like to have it done before my new mainsail shows up. other than the mounting everything else looks straight forward. Actually the ease of the lag bolts is appealing. Am I correct in assuming that after pre-drilling the holes and prior to fastening the lag bolts, I should should put some sealant in the holes to keep water from getting in there too?

Thanks again!

 

[Steve Dion]

I would!

 

[Joe Diver]

I cut a 2x6 to the length of the platform and mounted the head to it, countersinking the bolts. Then I drilled holes and lag bolted the assembly to the platform. It's rock solid and raised the head up a little so I'm not quite so squatted down anymore. I'll paint the 2x6 to match the head compartment.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Wow! Are y'all really good at turning a VERY simple job...

...into a major project! 'Cuz all toilets mount using lag bolts....so all you have to do is back 'em out to remove the old toilet...fill the ones that don't match up with the holes in the base of the new toilet...touch up with a little paint...drill any new holes needed, set the toilet down...tighten up the bolts...you're done!

Anything else will only turn replacing THIS toilet into another nightmare that you have to figure out how to UNDO and re-invent another complex way to install the next toilet ('cuz no two makes/models ever have the same mounting bolt pattern)...an even bigger nightmare for any new owner who first has figure out what the heck YOU did!

 

[Joe Diver]

If any dude can't figure out how to back out 4 lag bolts, remove a head and unbolt it from the mount should probably hire a professional to do the work anyway.

 

[Joe Diver]

When you replace the head, you might consider replacing the hoses as well. I replaced the fresh water intake hose and the sanitation line when I did my head. It was a little difficult to work with but I used some nice, smooth line specifically designed for marine sanitation....no odors leeching through and a nice tight seal. Should last another 30 years. I didn't need to replace the dump hose or vent line; they were in good shape.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

I wouldn't...

Am I correct in assuming that after pre-drilling the holes and prior to fastening the lag bolts, I should should put some sealant in the holes to keep water from getting in there too? Thanks again!

The holes should be drilled so that the bolts actually thread into the FG...the washer will keep water out unless you make the holes too big.

I would take Joe's advice about replacing the hoses too...but not with just any "nice smooth lines designed for sanitation"...'cuz the smoothest softest ones are the quickest to permeate. Trident 101 (or 102 if you simply MUST have white instead of black). They're the only hose I recommend any more...it's been on the market for more than 15 years without a single reported odor permeation failure...something that cannot be said about ANY other hose. The online store on this site has it--and everything else you need too--for a VERY good price. sbo.com plumbing

 

[Tim R.]

The holes should be drilled so that the bolts actually thread into the FG...the washer will keep water out.

I would take Joe's advice about replacing the hoses too...but not with just any "nice smooth lines designed for sanitation"...'cuz the smoothest softest ones are the quickest to permeate. Trident 101 (or 102 if you simply MUST have white instead of black). They're the only hose I recommend any more...it's been on the market for more than 15 years without a single reported odor permeation failure...something that cannot be said about ANY other hose.

The washer sits on top of the toilet flange so I do not see how the washer could possibly keep moisture out. Every boat I have owned that had a toilet attached with lag bolts into the wood had rot in it. This would be a great place to use butyl to seal the holes but allow easy removal if necessary.

 

[Cpt. Jon]

Thanks all!

Peggy, thanks for adding to the discussion. I am planning on replacing the hoses as well, but haven't purchased yet, will take your advice on the trident then.

Are hose sizes pretty much standard for the toilets and sanitation systems? 3/4" incoming raw water and 1.5" outgoing waste water?

Thanks,

Jon

 

[Joe Diver]

Should be but double check with whichever head you choose.

I don't remember the brand name of the sanitation line I got.....I got it a WM when I bought the head...it was the "better" of the sanitation lines. White, smooth, very stiff so kinda hard to work with. I had to give the ends a quick dunk in hot water to get them soft enough to go over the fittings, and when they cooled they sealed up very nicely. Hopefully it'll last and not permeate, but if it does a new hose isn't all that expensive and now that I've done it once, could do it again in about 30 mins.