New (to me) MacGregor 26X

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Ken

After having dreamed for about three years, I finally made a deal on a 1998 (new to me) Macgregor 26X - now I have some modificatioins that I would like to do - and hoping I can get some advice from those that have gone before me electrical system - it only has one battery - I would like to add two "house" batteries to use seperate from the existing starting and main batery - what kind of an "isolator" do I need - the motor is a 50 HP Honda with charger - will that be OK to keep a good charge in all the batteries - do I need any kind of manual switches or should I get something that switches automatically - what are the best kind of batteries should I get - are regular "marine" starting batteries sufficient or is it necessary to go to the really good (and expensive) sealed bateries? Does anyone have any wiring diagrams on how the wiring should be done plumbing - I'd like to install a pressure water system with a water heater (if possible) and shower - I've read that some of the marine water heaters use the hot water off the motor cooling - can you do this with an outboard - or any other ideas (I'd just as soon not go with a propane heater if I can do otherwise) - also what kind of plumbing would be necessary to use a shower - can a "sump" be installed below the head floor for drainage - and I would assume that this is pumped directly overboard? Has anyone used the "flexible" water tanks for fresh water storage. we're planning on doing some "cruising" with the boat so some of the "creature comforts" become somewhat important. I've been reading the "forum" for a number of years now - I know that you guys are an absolute wealth of info - probably have a lot more questions once I actually get into the boat (don't actually get it 'til middle of August) thansk in advance for your advice. Ken
 
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MArk

More 26X Mods

Ken, Many mods of all kinds for the 26X on the link below. Happy sails *_/), MArk
 
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Tim Bastian

Been there done that.

Hi Ken, I've done all of the mods you are looking at except for the water heater but have an idea there too. I don't have time to go into it now but would be glad to E-Mail you the information Either tonight or tomorrow. Drop me an E-Mail timbastian@hangar-a.com or I'll post something back here when I get a chance. Tim Bastian Zephyr's Aura Hixson, TN
 
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Tony Houk

Your mods

Hey Ken and all that read, I have had my boat since new, it is a 98, and I have done a lot of the mods you are talking about also. I have my boat set up for two batteries. I have a master switch so that I can pick and isloate each battery. I also have an isolator in the system so that I can charge both batteries when I am running the engine. The only bad thing is it will charge one off the other when either battery is selected. As far as the batteries go it depends on you. I had a gel cell and a lead acid. The gel cellis still going so I plan on getting another to replace the dead lead acid. It will be about double the cost but I like the longevity. As far as plumbing goes, you can install one it is not that hard. For the hot water heater that runs off the engine outboards do not put out enough hot water to heat the core. those units are designed for inboards. Try looking at the zodi heaters. Another option is the solar heaters that heat the bags. Yes you can install a sump under the head. There is a void under the head floor. Remember that any discharge of liquid overboard besides plain water is a violation. Coast Guard frowns when they write out tickets. For the wiring look at the Twelve volt Bible. It will give you loads of info. Happy sails and be safe out there. Another place that you may want to go is to Sailnet.com and sign up for their email list on the 26X. Tony
 
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Tim Bastian

More detail

I have a little more time to write tonight so here goes. I have a flush toilet. SeaLand Marine Traveler (West Marian P/N 374074) with self-contained holding tank. It has a deck pumpout and a SureFlow macerator pump (West marine P/N 1936335) with a Y valve (West Marine P/N 423780) to dump overboard and a vented loop to stop siphoning. I have a FloJet pressure water pump (purchased from J.C. Whitney) with a 39.7 gallon Plastimo flexible water tank (purchased from Online Marine) under the port settee. I have a shower in the head with a sump system under the cooler. I made the sump system out of an Attwood automatic bilge pump and a Tupper Ware bowl from Wal-Mart. I have two batteries. One lead acid for engine starting and an 8D house battery. The 8D is a AGM sealed battery purchased from e-Marine.com. I have a Blue Seas DC breaker panel with battery selector switch and 13 breakers purchased from Dave’s Marine Electronics. I have an 80 watt Kyocera solar panel Purchased from e-Marine.com. I have a CruzPro battery monitor with alarms for low voltage and low amp hours remaining (Purchased from e-Marine.com). I have a Rule 2000 GPH electric bilge pump with float switch and manual switch. West Marine P/N (Oops couldn't find it) I have a Whale Titon hand bilge pump 1800 GPH. West marine P/N 182329 As for hot water I plan on installing an EEMAX Electric Instantaneous Water Heater (West Marine P/N 1677368) and a Prowatt 3000 Inverter (West Marine P/N 3371945). I estimate 3 minutes use per shower which would equate to approximately 12.5 amp hours / shower. If you want more specific installation help let me know. I’ll be glad to take some pictures of the installations and E-Mail them to you. Tim Bastian Zephyr's Aura Hixson, TN Check out our last cruise at http://hcgiles.home.mindspring.com/macflotilla.htm
 
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Cameron Root

plumbing / electrical

I have a 2002 26X. I also have my own plumbing company so I'll start with some plumbing mods. 3-way portable marine toilet c/w stainless steel hold-down brackets. 11/2 discharge piped vertical to reconfigured Y valve. Y valve mounted thru cooler seat backrest in head. Dockside piping continues vertical thru deck terminating with a stainless waste deckfill. Macerator piping makes a 180 at Y valve then a swooping left thru wall at floor level. Macerator pump mounted approx 8" thru head wall on aft vertical cooler compartment under removable cooler cabnet. All piping done thus far with 1 1/2" extra heavy duty smooth white vinyle sanitation hose. Joints marine sealed and clamped directly on single barb on Y valve & macerator pump. I will interupt here for a moment. An additional Y valve installed at this location ahead of the macerator suction side would fit the bill for shower sump under head. Continuing with the macerator discharge under head and rear berth thru transom above water line between motor well and balast valve. Piping done with semi ridgid kitec and braided high pressure hose connected to 1" thru hull. Electrical I use 2 batterys, 2-32 watt fexable solar panels, lcd solar/battery management system, extra 6 breaker panal same as the factory 4. I have 3 extra lights v berth, head, rear berth and 3-12v power sockets, I use a large 12v igloo cooler, fan, garmin map/sounder, vhf, sat. phone and many more things to come. My solar system works great. Thats it for now.
 
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Cameron Root

showering

The head is to small for showering it's a one leg in one out most times. The self draining cockpit would bemore suitable location. For the shower I would use a weed sprayer pump up container fitted with a on off hand held shower head. heated water supplied by the sun and or stove. privacy if needed dowsars camper top. right now the lake and a bar of soap works for me
 
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Tim Bastian

Showering

Showering is not a problem. I have a hand held sink sprayer installed and a shower curtain. You sit on the toilet, spray down, soap up, and rinse off. There is room to do this without much trouble but I agree it would be nice to have a little moor room. I tried the bug sprayer it did ok but we love our shower. The shower in the head is much more convenient and gives a better degree of privacy. Tim Bastian Zephyr’s Aura Hixson, TN
 
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Cameron Root

5 foot 10 and 250 lbs

I,ll re think it next time I am in there with the door closed.
 
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