hi i bought a new thruhull depth finder,raymarine st40,i took the old datamarine out, putting the new one which glue do you use thanks vincent
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- Jan 22, 2008
- 519
I Fought a Failed Echo Sounder Xducer
I fought the sounder transducer for four hours (between tides!). I guess it was in with 5200 because I have never come across such a difficult one to get out. The problem was that the rubbery nature of the sealant prevented me from withdrawing the transducer to the extent where the sealant parted. I used very large screwdrivers and a big wrench but every time I moved it even 1/2" downwards it sprang back into its original position. Eventually I put a two foot long Stillson wrench - the type plumbers use to tackle 3" pipe joints - onto the thread and actually 'unscrewed' the fitting from the inside. The thread on the bronze housing was wrecked in the process so, if I hadn't won the battle, I would have had no means of making it secure on the following tide - other than the X%£%%$ 5200. In fact the only need for sealant was to keep the water out as the outer flange and inside nut were more than capable of holding the transducer in position.
I fought the sounder transducer for four hours (between tides!). I guess it was in with 5200 because I have never come across such a difficult one to get out. The problem was that the rubbery nature of the sealant prevented me from withdrawing the transducer to the extent where the sealant parted. I used very large screwdrivers and a big wrench but every time I moved it even 1/2" downwards it sprang back into its original position. Eventually I put a two foot long Stillson wrench - the type plumbers use to tackle 3" pipe joints - onto the thread and actually 'unscrewed' the fitting from the inside. The thread on the bronze housing was wrecked in the process so, if I hadn't won the battle, I would have had no means of making it secure on the following tide - other than the X%£%%$ 5200. In fact the only need for sealant was to keep the water out as the outer flange and inside nut were more than capable of holding the transducer in position.
There are other product that are equal or better....
There are other products on the market that are equal to or better than the 3M products. Check out Life Product or Sikaflex for starters. Regardless of which product you choose, you should never use 5200 for a thru hull. The purpose of the sealant is only to keep the water out, not to glue it to the hull for some structural reason. It is fastened to the hull with the backing plate & a nut.
There are other products on the market that are equal to or better than the 3M products. Check out Life Product or Sikaflex for starters. Regardless of which product you choose, you should never use 5200 for a thru hull. The purpose of the sealant is only to keep the water out, not to glue it to the hull for some structural reason. It is fastened to the hull with the backing plate & a nut.
thanks for the fast responce
thanks everyone, that was real fast, tomorrow it goes in with 4200 , i will also check out Life products, thanks again vincent
thanks everyone, that was real fast, tomorrow it goes in with 4200 , i will also check out Life products, thanks again vincent
From the Irwin Yachts Web Site
http://www.irwinyachts.com/Drawings-Manuals-Engineering/Adhesives%20and%20caulks.htm Have fun Joe
http://www.irwinyachts.com/Drawings-Manuals-Engineering/Adhesives%20and%20caulks.htm Have fun Joe
Once again, folks,
the ONLY place for 5200 on a boat is the hull to deck joint. Other than that, use a SEALANT, NOT an adhesive.
the ONLY place for 5200 on a boat is the hull to deck joint. Other than that, use a SEALANT, NOT an adhesive.
Just an FYI..
I like 3M 101 because it's easy to remove in the future and it does not have the DEATH grip of 5200 that is not needed in a mechanical connection. It is not however more flexible at break than any other 3M sealant other than 3M silicone. In my experience the polyurethane sealants continue to harden until they become almost brittle and polysulfides stay rubbery for the duration depending on UV exposure.. My Take from years of experience is that in 20 years the 3M101 will still be very close to it's 416% elongation and the 5200 or 4200 will be less that 101 given time as they continue to harden.... Elongation at break and tensile/grip strength: 3M 5200 = 1350% Tensile Strength = 700psi 3M 4200 = 900% Tensile Strength = 300psi 3M UV400 = 800% Tensile Strength = 300psi 3M Silicone = 350% Tensile Strength = 220psi 3M 101 = 416% Tensile Strength = 139psi The tensile strength of polyester resinated fiberglass is between 400 and 500 psi. Why one would want to adhere something to their hull at 700 psi, that will literally tear the gel coat clean off the substrate, if not removed patiently and carefully, is out of my realm of comprehension!!!! If you must use a polyurethane use 4200 not 5200!!!
I like 3M 101 because it's easy to remove in the future and it does not have the DEATH grip of 5200 that is not needed in a mechanical connection. It is not however more flexible at break than any other 3M sealant other than 3M silicone. In my experience the polyurethane sealants continue to harden until they become almost brittle and polysulfides stay rubbery for the duration depending on UV exposure.. My Take from years of experience is that in 20 years the 3M101 will still be very close to it's 416% elongation and the 5200 or 4200 will be less that 101 given time as they continue to harden.... Elongation at break and tensile/grip strength: 3M 5200 = 1350% Tensile Strength = 700psi 3M 4200 = 900% Tensile Strength = 300psi 3M UV400 = 800% Tensile Strength = 300psi 3M Silicone = 350% Tensile Strength = 220psi 3M 101 = 416% Tensile Strength = 139psi The tensile strength of polyester resinated fiberglass is between 400 and 500 psi. Why one would want to adhere something to their hull at 700 psi, that will literally tear the gel coat clean off the substrate, if not removed patiently and carefully, is out of my realm of comprehension!!!! If you must use a polyurethane use 4200 not 5200!!!
What happened to me this year with 5200
My 2 year old transducer took a crap and I installed it not knowing about 5200 and its grip I could not remove the old one! even with a plumbers wrench so I bought some 5200 anti bond (the good stuff)and it loosened it but still was stuck and I already destroyed it with the wrench so I ended up using a hole saw to cut it out from the outside and installed the new one with Boat Life As Stu said 5200=hull to deck joint!
My 2 year old transducer took a crap and I installed it not knowing about 5200 and its grip I could not remove the old one! even with a plumbers wrench so I bought some 5200 anti bond (the good stuff)and it loosened it but still was stuck and I already destroyed it with the wrench so I ended up using a hole saw to cut it out from the outside and installed the new one with Boat Life As Stu said 5200=hull to deck joint!
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