New Sails...dimensions?

[shanker]

I am ordering new sails for my Hunter 260, both a new main and new head sail. With my boat tucked away or the winter, I cannot get the physical measurements that the sail maker requires. I have sent him the dimensions from the manual and I'm wondering if those measurements correspond to actual sizes. For instance, is the 'E' dimension the mast to the end of the boom or is that the dimension of the foot of the main sail?
Can I rely on the dimensions from the manual to order these sails? As far as I can tell there were no modifications to the mast or boom.

Thank you,

 

[cb32863]

Did you tell the sail maker that the dimensions you gave them were your JIPE dimensions and not the actual sail dimensions? They should be able to work off of your JIPE. All that info is well known by a good sail loft. When I ordered my new sails, I said I needed them for a First 235, not a problem with them.

 

[Ted]

So, what is your sailmaker doing to deserve your business? Obviously not measuring your boat like a good local loft should do. Sorry to be so blunt but it's for your protection. If you provide dimensions and they're wrong, it's going to be your fault and you may not have recourse in the event modifications have to be made to make them fit correctly. Don't depend on measurements from others either because some stock looking boats have had rig and spar modifications over the years. There are many measurements that a designer would need to know besides the IJPE dimensions. Roller furling and genoa lead locations are just a couple that come to mind that aren't taken into consideration with just the IJPE dimensions. Measure twice and cut once! Proceed with caution.

 

[RajinCajun]

I purchased a new mail from North Sails and Benz came to the boat and took the measurements. Put the monkey on their back. I'm very happy with the whole experience, yes, I may have paid a little more but not much.

 

[shemandr]

I am a proponent of having your boat measured by the sailmaker. Sail making, while scientific, is also a craft and an art. No doubt you can get quality sails mail order but there are intangibles that are boat specific and locale specific. That's not to mention sail cloth weight, spreader patches, stanchion patches, sail track issues, batten systems, reefing issues, sail #'s and insignias, and that's not even getting into materials. They are expensive so I think it's best to get it right.

 

[shemandr]

Oh and I'll add: Laminate sails are great at holding their shape. But if that shape is wrong, the sail is a dog and you can't fix it. Just look at boat ads where it isn't hard to find a boat for sale with recent laminate sails. Why is that boat for sale? Because the owner was tired of winning? No. It's because he spend the money and the boat still won't go.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

The deminsions in the manual and under boat information for the 260 is spot on but a lot will depend on the furler and how attached at the deck or raised. Best advice is the suggestion to measure the sail or better yet, send it to the sail loft for sure. Yes it will cost but if the loft has the sail and screws up, that will be on their nickle. Also the forum store does sell the main and jib for the 260 so you might want to check there and they do work with you. For the jib on a furler, do get the sunbrella edge and you will need to tell the sail loft which side the sail furls out so the cover is on that side.

 

[Jackdaw]

If he has made sails for the 260 before this could go OK.

If not, the jib will be a particular concern. First you have to factor in the shorter luff if a roller is used, and the BIG issue is the max size of the sail as the rig is non-overlapping. Of particular interest will be the position of the clew to get a good sheeting angle to the tracks, and the hollow of the leach to keep the trailing edge of the sail off the rigging.

The main is simpler, but any mast rake will effect the angle at the tack, and he will also have to know how much pre-bend is dialed into your rig. Also how much roach? More will be more powerful, but might snag on the backstay in lighter airs.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Only up to a 110 job lapped can be used on this boat due to the spreader bars , deck and chain plate arrangement. You have more or bigger main for power vs a standard boat main

 

[Captain Larry-DH]

+1 for having the sailmaker measure and responsible for measurements. If not possible, sent him your old sails.

 

[Will Gilmore]

Include photographs. Take a long shot from the side with the halyard hanging by a free swinging weight to show the rake angle. Put a large tape measure along the boom for scale. Photograph the halyard and masthead, the outhaul, the mast-slot and goose-neck. Take pictures of the block and winch locations and include a tape measure with large, clear markings for scale.

It really doesn't sound like your sailmaker asked enough questions.

Call them up and ask them what kind of information they think is necessary to make a sail? There are a lot of things to consider. Compare their answers to your previous experience with them. Were they so busy that they forgot and took shortcuts? Do they really think the measurements you gave them is all they ever need? If your boat is stock and they've done that model before, yes, it might work out, but change the rake, the outhaul, the downhaul and the halyard shackle even, could have some effect on the main. As Jackdaw and Dave point out, the jib has questions to be answered and restrictions to be understood too.

I got my new sail from Judy at Hydesailsdirect and they walked me through all of that with phone conversations, a mailed in measuring kit with guide, emailed pictures, amazing how much they wanted to know. And I was saying, "but it's a one-design, stock boat. Most places have these sails sitting on their shelf. " And Judy was very patiently saying, "not so, even a boat like that has a history and characteristics that make it unique."(I'm paraphrasing).

- Will (Dragonfly)