New Reef Lines H34

splax · Feb 5, 2015

I replaced mine last year. An electrician's snake was used to pull the lines boom end to end, then the lines were worked around for correct placement. I might do one line at a time to avoid them being twisted inside the boom.
I used 3/8" yacht-braid line, like that for sheets. I considered this might help reduce the degradation from the sun and retain strength.

Allan12210 · Feb 5, 2015

Blackacre said:
I would like to replace my reef lines. Does anyone have advice on the best type of line to use and any tips for running the lines through the boom.

Currently I have one reef line that appears to be 3/8". My understanding is that I would just tie the new line to the old one and pull it through the boom.

Also, I only have one reef line installed but I would like to add the other. I was planning on tying them both to the one old line when i pull it though.

Any thoughts?

The reference I have for the reefing lines is 3/8" XLS 45' and 60' for first and second reefs, respectively.

When I pull a new line with the old one I usually butt them end to end and sew them together with some heavy thread or waxed string. Then I wrap some rigging tape around the junction really tight. This allows them to pass through small holes and over obstructions in the path of the original line.

Your missing second reef line should be run on the other side of the boom so it doesn't tangle up with the block that's in there for the outhaul. Might be a problem if pulled with the 1st reef line.

I've had success using an electrician's fish tape to pull a fresh line through something like a boom. Also, I've tied thread to one of those Styrofoam peanut packing materials. Stuff it in one end then I use a shop vacuum cleaner to suck it down the boom, then progressively increase the size of the messenger line until the new line can be attached.

Edit: Splax beat me to the finish line .

Allan12210 · Feb 5, 2015

Blackacre said:
Thanks for the advice. I would have never thought of doing this.

I will likely fish the new line with a tape. Is there a preference for which direction I should pull the line?

Yes, the easy way.

Good that you have the tape. I recall that there is a smallish hole at the gooseneck where the line emerges to engage the stopper. You will have to remove that bit to expose it. It would probably be best to insert the tape into that hole and push it down the boom, then pull the new line back through the hole.

Claude L.-Auger · Feb 5, 2015

Allan12210 said:
...When I pull a new line with the old one I usually butt them end to end and sew them together with some heavy thread or waxed string. Then I wrap some rigging tape around the junction really tight. This allows them to pass through small holes and over obstructions in the path of the original line./quote]

Great idea and it works really well be it for reefing lines or halyard. After you've put the rigging tape, you might want to put some dishwashing soap on the joint. It's slippery and will make passing through tight spaces easy. Will dry without a problem after. As for your spare halyard. from the top of the mast you can attach a nut or two to a fine line, and slowly drop it inside the mast. Remove the sheave at the bottom, fish the nuts and fine line out. Then insure that it is running free without snags. Attach your new halyard to the fine line, put rigging tape, coat with dishwashing soap and pull fine line from top of the mast. Your new halyard should go up without a problem, exit at the top and be brought down. Replace the sheave and you're done. Good luck

PGIJon · Feb 8, 2015

Not being as meticulous as Allan, for which I am sure I will one day pay dearly, when I join lines to be pulled through. I bend a paper clip so that in an elongated U and push the point through each of the abutting rope ends. I do this 2 twice 180 degrees offset from each other. Then I wrap tape around it. It's worked well for me so far, including pulling halyard lines through the top of the mast. However, I am sure I'll get a gotcha and I'll then take Allan's advice to sew the ends together.

Allan12210 · Feb 8, 2015

PGIJon said:
Not being as meticulous as Allan, for which I am sure I will one day pay dearly, when I join lines to be pulled through. I bend a paper clip so that in an elongated U and push the point through each of the abutting rope ends. I do this 2 twice 180 degrees offset from each other. Then I wrap tape around it. It's worked well for me so far, including pulling halyard lines through the top of the mast. However, I am sure I'll get a gotcha and I'll then take Allan's advice to sew the ends together.

I'm just paranoid.

PGIJon · Feb 8, 2015

Allan12210 said:
I'm just paranoid.

and that's a good thing!

Monty VM · Feb 20, 2015

if you tie them they wont go through the boom, the channel is too narrow. I use whipping twine and sew the two ends together. then the line will pull smoothly through.

Richard Bryer · Feb 23, 2015

Wow that looks way different than mine. I take the mast down every year so I have had a good look at what is inside. It almost looks like the mast was stepped so it bent the piece of conduit that comes up through the deck that provides a passage for the wiring.What is the orange stuff in the one picture?

Allan12210 · Feb 23, 2015

Blackacre said:
Oddly enough, I'm not sure what the wires are used for. I don't have a lot of electronics aboard. Only thing on the mast is one steaming and one anchor light.

You probably can't get a dental mirror up in there to see what's going on. If you were to separate that connector, you also probably couldn't get it back together. That would allow you to perhaps figure out with a voltmeter if it is active and for what. I know this doesn't necessarily help, but mine is rigged differently. That screw below the vang attachment point secures a cover over the enclosed wiring chase where all my wires go. The mast has to be removed and that piece (after removing the vang attachment and gooseneck) slides out the bottom. That is followed by the sail track. Under those is the wiring for my steaming light, anchor light and VHF antenna (that's not your wire). Your's looks like someone else added something that runs down the inside of the mast maybe.. Can't tell if it goes backup to loop into the short piece of PVC pipe that is stuck into the deck, keeping the rain out. You might check inside the boat for the wires that emerge at the bottom of the compression post inside the settee. See if they match what you are seeing.

One thing you may not know is the conduit for the steaming light runs fore and aft up on the mast. Its a tube that is welded to the backside of the front of the mast right behind the steaming light. It is also welded to the back of the mast and there is a hole into that wiring chase. Your halyards pass on either port or starboard of that transverse tube so they don't bind when under load.

If you do clear the area enough for new halyards, you can drop a messenger line with a steel nut tied to it down from the top and retrieve it with a magnet. Try and heel the boat some so it drops on the (in your case) port side of that tube.

You could try and remove that screw on the wire cover and see if you can slide it up a couple of inches to look in there for those wires coming down. Its been too long since I did my mast and I don't recall if there is a gap behind the gooseneck that would allow that.

splax · Feb 23, 2015

That wiring harness might belong to wiring for wind instruments at the top. Perhaps an antenna wire for UHF, VHF. shortwave, ...?

Allan12210 · Feb 24, 2015

Blackacre said:
Thanks for the advice. I'll remove that cover and see whats in there. I do have a VHF antenna on my mast but I believe thats a coax type cable. Would that be correct and if so would it run inside of a conduit of its own?

My VHF coax also runs in the wire chase under the sail track. There are no other conduits.

New Reef Lines H34

.

Attachments

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

Attachments

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

Attachments