Hi Peggie, Thanks in advance for your response. I am installing a new PHII per your recommendation, and, I just wondered if there is any beneficial pre-use servicing you'd recommend? I'm thinking in terms of lubrication of internal parts or is it ready to go until it's had some use? Thanks for your opinion. Regards, Big Joe
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It's ready to go,..
And if you're swapping it out for a cheaper toilet, you're gonna love it! Why? Because... The diameter of the piston of the PHII is 2 1/2 inches. The diameter of the piston of most other manual toilets is 1 3/4". Now this doesn't sound like much of a difference, but given the same length of stroke up and down, for demonstration purposes we'll say 2 1/2 inches for each head that we're considering. When you calculate the cubic inch capacity (displacement) of the PHII with a 2 1/2" diameter piston, it comes out to a little over 12 cubic inches. If you do the same calculation for a pump with a 1 3/4" diameter piston, with the same 2 1/2" stroke, the cubic inch capacity is only 6 cubic inches. So, to put that all into English, the PHII will pump twice as much per stroke, as it's competitors will. Adding the lever-type handle, there isn't as much actual effort required. So, in a nutshell, you only have to pump half as many times to flush it, and your arm doesn't get as tired. Plus, with the lever handle, you don't have to bend over as far, with your nose practically in the bowl, while you're pumping it. Get back to me in the fall for advice on how to winterize your system. Meanwhile, enjoy!
And if you're swapping it out for a cheaper toilet, you're gonna love it! Why? Because... The diameter of the piston of the PHII is 2 1/2 inches. The diameter of the piston of most other manual toilets is 1 3/4". Now this doesn't sound like much of a difference, but given the same length of stroke up and down, for demonstration purposes we'll say 2 1/2 inches for each head that we're considering. When you calculate the cubic inch capacity (displacement) of the PHII with a 2 1/2" diameter piston, it comes out to a little over 12 cubic inches. If you do the same calculation for a pump with a 1 3/4" diameter piston, with the same 2 1/2" stroke, the cubic inch capacity is only 6 cubic inches. So, to put that all into English, the PHII will pump twice as much per stroke, as it's competitors will. Adding the lever-type handle, there isn't as much actual effort required. So, in a nutshell, you only have to pump half as many times to flush it, and your arm doesn't get as tired. Plus, with the lever handle, you don't have to bend over as far, with your nose practically in the bowl, while you're pumping it. Get back to me in the fall for advice on how to winterize your system. Meanwhile, enjoy!
Thanks Peggie hall
Thanks so much Peggie. I know you are a big proponent of this unit, so the choice was ez. Thanks for the explanation and reassurance that it's good to go. Best Regards, Big Joe. PS. I'm in Marina Del Rey so winterization means taking a sweater down to the boat. Just in case it get's cold.
Thanks so much Peggie. I know you are a big proponent of this unit, so the choice was ez. Thanks for the explanation and reassurance that it's good to go. Best Regards, Big Joe. PS. I'm in Marina Del Rey so winterization means taking a sweater down to the boat. Just in case it get's cold.
Jabsco Replacement
Does the PHII match the holes,etc. to replace a Jabsco head ? What kind of skills are necessary to do the replacement work myself?
Does the PHII match the holes,etc. to replace a Jabsco head ? What kind of skills are necessary to do the replacement work myself?
b393capt - - - No, the holes don't match up.
I did the exact replacement last year and love the new Raritan. You can get the hole pattern information beforehand if you like and do some planning. The platform for the toilet in my H280 prevented me from using the existing cutout for the main septic hose (it went straight down from the fitting on the toilet)so I just enlarged my existing one. My steps were: 1 - Removed old toilet and "primary" hose. 2 - Placed the new Raritan where I needed to mount and carefully marked holes 3 - Moved the new toilet out of the way, drilled the new holes and expanded my existing primary hose cutout to accommodate the new hose position. I used one of those spiral saw bits in a Dremel and it worked great. 4 - Fed new primary hose into place 5 - Mounted new toilet and connected hose. I had to actually connect the new hose to the toilet output first then push the toilet into position before I could secure the hold down screws. If your primary hose is routed upwards or to either side, or if you can use the your existing cutout you may not have to do anything but drill new mounting holes for the PHII base. The deal here was that the distance from the centerline of the output flange to the centerline of the base is greater than for the Jabsco by about 1.5".
I did the exact replacement last year and love the new Raritan. You can get the hole pattern information beforehand if you like and do some planning. The platform for the toilet in my H280 prevented me from using the existing cutout for the main septic hose (it went straight down from the fitting on the toilet)so I just enlarged my existing one. My steps were: 1 - Removed old toilet and "primary" hose. 2 - Placed the new Raritan where I needed to mount and carefully marked holes 3 - Moved the new toilet out of the way, drilled the new holes and expanded my existing primary hose cutout to accommodate the new hose position. I used one of those spiral saw bits in a Dremel and it worked great. 4 - Fed new primary hose into place 5 - Mounted new toilet and connected hose. I had to actually connect the new hose to the toilet output first then push the toilet into position before I could secure the hold down screws. If your primary hose is routed upwards or to either side, or if you can use the your existing cutout you may not have to do anything but drill new mounting holes for the PHII base. The deal here was that the distance from the centerline of the output flange to the centerline of the base is greater than for the Jabsco by about 1.5".
Mounting Hole Layout
b393capt, there are no standard in the marine sanitation industry to where the mounting bolt pattern from one manufacturer will match those from another manufacturer. With household toilets, an American Standard will match up to a Koehler, or whatever. Not so in the marine industry - and for a reason. Marine toilets are basically two pumps - one to bring in raw water to rinse the bowl; the other to pull the bowl's contents out and pump them off to the holding tank. Depending on the types of pumps being used, what size they are, etc., etc., the toilet manufacturer has to add the tabs for the mounting bolts wherever he can find room. and they must be located in places that offer the best support for the toilet's components. Different models from the same manufacturer won't even be the same. The best thing to do when replacing a toilet is to remove everything that is currently there. Clean and disinfect the area thoroughly. Then fit a piece of teak or formica-faced marine plywood over the top of the deck, effectively covering all the existing holes. Attach it with screws, not 5200 - because you may need to remove it at some point in the future. Then get a nice piece of metal, plastic or wood molding to cover the laminations at the front edge of the plywood. You can even use regular marine plywood and paint it - the variations are endless. Now that you've got a nice platform for your new head, set it in place and sit on it. Then adjust it as necessary so that your "overhang" doesn't interfere with a wall or a cabinet, making it uncomfortable to use. Mark the locations for the new mounting bolts and places where the hoses may possibly come up through the plywood. If drilling holes for your hoses, drill them approximately 1/4" oversize, to facilitate running them through the holes. You can always put caulk over the gaps, if they're too big. When you're all done, you'll have a nice, neat, professional-looking job that you can be proud of.
b393capt, there are no standard in the marine sanitation industry to where the mounting bolt pattern from one manufacturer will match those from another manufacturer. With household toilets, an American Standard will match up to a Koehler, or whatever. Not so in the marine industry - and for a reason. Marine toilets are basically two pumps - one to bring in raw water to rinse the bowl; the other to pull the bowl's contents out and pump them off to the holding tank. Depending on the types of pumps being used, what size they are, etc., etc., the toilet manufacturer has to add the tabs for the mounting bolts wherever he can find room. and they must be located in places that offer the best support for the toilet's components. Different models from the same manufacturer won't even be the same. The best thing to do when replacing a toilet is to remove everything that is currently there. Clean and disinfect the area thoroughly. Then fit a piece of teak or formica-faced marine plywood over the top of the deck, effectively covering all the existing holes. Attach it with screws, not 5200 - because you may need to remove it at some point in the future. Then get a nice piece of metal, plastic or wood molding to cover the laminations at the front edge of the plywood. You can even use regular marine plywood and paint it - the variations are endless. Now that you've got a nice platform for your new head, set it in place and sit on it. Then adjust it as necessary so that your "overhang" doesn't interfere with a wall or a cabinet, making it uncomfortable to use. Mark the locations for the new mounting bolts and places where the hoses may possibly come up through the plywood. If drilling holes for your hoses, drill them approximately 1/4" oversize, to facilitate running them through the holes. You can always put caulk over the gaps, if they're too big. When you're all done, you'll have a nice, neat, professional-looking job that you can be proud of.
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