I'm a new owner of a '97 h26 and have a couple of questions that I'd appreciate input on from the more experienced owners out there: 1. Topping Lift - My topping lift is nothing more than a line from the top of the mast tied to the end of boom...no shackle, no adjusting mechanism, no special attachment point on the boom...just a line tied at what seems to me to be a relatively weak point on the boom (the thin metal guides for the reefing/outhaul lines). I like simple things, but this seems too simple...is that all there is to it or am I missing something? When the mainsail fills, the topping lift just flops in the wind...kind of annoying! 2. CDI Roller Furling - I have the CDI furling system and it works well except that the furling line chafes against the stainless furling drum. I've tried moving the leads and adjusting the drum position without success. Do others have this problem? Any solutions? I've thought about "snipping" a cutout to allow freer movement of the line but figured I'd ask here first. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
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Ron Mehringer
Welcome new 26 owner
First of all, congratulations on your H26 ownership and welcome to the club. Regarding the topping lift, mine is configured just the same. I find the lack of an ADJUSTABLE topping lift less than acceptable. Since I find topping lifts something of an annoyance overall, my plan is to install a Garhauer rigid vang. Helps lift the boom for light air sailing and eliminates the topping lift. Not all agree with this approach. Different strokes... As far as the CDI furling goes, the stainless drum should not chafe against the furling line. I can't remember how this is adjusted but I'll check my manual next time I'm on the boat. Regards, Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
First of all, congratulations on your H26 ownership and welcome to the club. Regarding the topping lift, mine is configured just the same. I find the lack of an ADJUSTABLE topping lift less than acceptable. Since I find topping lifts something of an annoyance overall, my plan is to install a Garhauer rigid vang. Helps lift the boom for light air sailing and eliminates the topping lift. Not all agree with this approach. Different strokes... As far as the CDI furling goes, the stainless drum should not chafe against the furling line. I can't remember how this is adjusted but I'll check my manual next time I'm on the boat. Regards, Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
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Gus Elia
Extend the line
Tim, I agree with Ron's suggestions. The best alternative to a topping lift is a rigid vang. However until you have the money to spare on that, there are other solutions. If the tolling lift is long enough to feed inside the boom you can try this other method. Buy some additional line of the same diameter. Tie them together with a sheet bend and feed it through the boom with a messenger line. Secure the bitter end using the cleat on the boom by the mast. The topping lift line will ride on the block provided for it on the aft end of the boom. as you pull down on the forward end at the mast, the boom will raise up for motoring or for using the bimini. When you raise the sails, you uncleat the toppilng lift and lower it down putting sufficient slack in the line to not restrict the sail from taking its natural shape. I have used this method for the last 3 seasons and it works well. Good luck with your new boat.
Tim, I agree with Ron's suggestions. The best alternative to a topping lift is a rigid vang. However until you have the money to spare on that, there are other solutions. If the tolling lift is long enough to feed inside the boom you can try this other method. Buy some additional line of the same diameter. Tie them together with a sheet bend and feed it through the boom with a messenger line. Secure the bitter end using the cleat on the boom by the mast. The topping lift line will ride on the block provided for it on the aft end of the boom. as you pull down on the forward end at the mast, the boom will raise up for motoring or for using the bimini. When you raise the sails, you uncleat the toppilng lift and lower it down putting sufficient slack in the line to not restrict the sail from taking its natural shape. I have used this method for the last 3 seasons and it works well. Good luck with your new boat.
Here's another idea...
Harken sells kits for adjustable topping lifts, but you can rig one easily with a small block, some extra line and and a small cam cleat. Shackle the block to the end of the boom, untie the existing topping lift and add the extra line (tie your sheet bend high enough on the old topping lift so it doesn't foul the block). Then run the line forward to the cam cleat that you pop-riveted about midway along the boom. Or, you can put a cheek block about midway along the boom, turn the line 180 degrees and bring it back to the cam cleat positioned near the end of the boom. BTW, the topping lift should be slack when the main is raised. It sounds like the furling line for your CDI may not be perpendicular to the headstay (and the axis of the drum). If it's not, you may eventually have a bigger problem than just chafe. The furling line can jam in the drum if you try to furl the sail when the wind pipes up. Check the turning block for the furling line; it should be on the deck below and to the right or left of the drum. If the furling line is not at right angles to the drum axis, move the mounting point of the block forward or backward until it is. If there is no turning block, consider adding one to reduce the friction in the system. Good luck! Peter S/V Raven
Harken sells kits for adjustable topping lifts, but you can rig one easily with a small block, some extra line and and a small cam cleat. Shackle the block to the end of the boom, untie the existing topping lift and add the extra line (tie your sheet bend high enough on the old topping lift so it doesn't foul the block). Then run the line forward to the cam cleat that you pop-riveted about midway along the boom. Or, you can put a cheek block about midway along the boom, turn the line 180 degrees and bring it back to the cam cleat positioned near the end of the boom. BTW, the topping lift should be slack when the main is raised. It sounds like the furling line for your CDI may not be perpendicular to the headstay (and the axis of the drum). If it's not, you may eventually have a bigger problem than just chafe. The furling line can jam in the drum if you try to furl the sail when the wind pipes up. Check the turning block for the furling line; it should be on the deck below and to the right or left of the drum. If the furling line is not at right angles to the drum axis, move the mounting point of the block forward or backward until it is. If there is no turning block, consider adding one to reduce the friction in the system. Good luck! Peter S/V Raven
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JZ
CDI Furler
I agree with Pete relating to the furling line being perpendicular to the drum. Another possibility to consider, especially if you have a 1/4" or larger diameter furling line, is to remove the core of the furling line back to the last fairlead. This will make more room for the furling line to roll onto the drum spool. Jim S/V Quest
I agree with Pete relating to the furling line being perpendicular to the drum. Another possibility to consider, especially if you have a 1/4" or larger diameter furling line, is to remove the core of the furling line back to the last fairlead. This will make more room for the furling line to roll onto the drum spool. Jim S/V Quest
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Dennis Brewer
Right on with Gus
Gus has the right idea. The manual shows the three lines (outhaul, topping lift and reefing line) going inside the boom and exiting at the fwd end where the three cleats are located. The center one is for the topping lift. Use at least one shackle at the aft end of the boom, as the topping lift starts up toward the mast. This makes it very easy to disconnect for removal of the boom.
Gus has the right idea. The manual shows the three lines (outhaul, topping lift and reefing line) going inside the boom and exiting at the fwd end where the three cleats are located. The center one is for the topping lift. Use at least one shackle at the aft end of the boom, as the topping lift starts up toward the mast. This makes it very easy to disconnect for removal of the boom.
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Tom
Wrap furling line in opposite direction
Hi Tim, Congrat's on you new boat. The problem with the furling line might be that it is wrapped on the drum in the opposite direction causing the line to feed closer to the edge of the feedthrough hole. Check to see if the line would clear if it were fed from the other side of the drum. If so, unwrap the line from the drum all the way, then continue to furl the sail in the same direction. For example, if your sail furls while the luff rotates in the counter clockwise direction, unfurl it (going clockwise) then refurl it continuing in the clockwise direction. This will feed the furling line on the other side of the drum. I have furled the genoa the "wrong way" at least once or twice during spring commisioning. Fair winds... Tom
Hi Tim, Congrat's on you new boat. The problem with the furling line might be that it is wrapped on the drum in the opposite direction causing the line to feed closer to the edge of the feedthrough hole. Check to see if the line would clear if it were fed from the other side of the drum. If so, unwrap the line from the drum all the way, then continue to furl the sail in the same direction. For example, if your sail furls while the luff rotates in the counter clockwise direction, unfurl it (going clockwise) then refurl it continuing in the clockwise direction. This will feed the furling line on the other side of the drum. I have furled the genoa the "wrong way" at least once or twice during spring commisioning. Fair winds... Tom
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Jim Loats
I added a block just aft of the furling drum
Welcome Tim. This is a great web site and bunch of fun guys to chat with. Dennis' description of the topping lift set up fits with how my 1996 26 is rigged. On the roller furler: I had to install a little block about 4 inches aft of the main drum so the line would feed to the center of the drum and perpendicular to it. The block is tethered to a misplaced fair lead that is mounted on the side of the deck too close and too far below the proper spot. then I lead the line through the little "triangle" on the first stantion and to a cam cleat by the cockpit. In heavy winds, there is still too much friction in the set up, so I am considering mounting another block on that forward stantion. I also replaced the line with the largest line that I could thread through the hole in the drum. Don't recall what size that is. Have fun ! Jim "Grizzly Bear" Loats
Welcome Tim. This is a great web site and bunch of fun guys to chat with. Dennis' description of the topping lift set up fits with how my 1996 26 is rigged. On the roller furler: I had to install a little block about 4 inches aft of the main drum so the line would feed to the center of the drum and perpendicular to it. The block is tethered to a misplaced fair lead that is mounted on the side of the deck too close and too far below the proper spot. then I lead the line through the little "triangle" on the first stantion and to a cam cleat by the cockpit. In heavy winds, there is still too much friction in the set up, so I am considering mounting another block on that forward stantion. I also replaced the line with the largest line that I could thread through the hole in the drum. Don't recall what size that is. Have fun ! Jim "Grizzly Bear" Loats
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