New Oday 20 owner

Joe11688 · May 8, 2011

jljl said:
I have moved up from an Oday daysailerII to an Oday 20 that I picked up yesterday. I am posting pictures before I have cleaned her, because it is exciting (to me) to have herView attachment 39857

View attachment 39858.

1) It has the rear boom sheeting, which my Daysailer II did not
I was wondering if anyone could help me with some pics or original manual type info to help me rig this correctly as I am not familiar with the rear boom sheeting.

2) There is no drain plug (that I can find), is that normal for this boatl?
Does anyone put one in?

3) Good source of sails that are not too expensive? The one's that came with her are usable, but not great.

4) Must do (or highly recommended) list of alterations?

5) I would like to wire the mast as well and possibly put in a wire for an antenna. Any reason not to go ahead and do so?

Thank you very much.

Josh

Josh,
Check out this site; http://www.iheartodays.com/bwl_05.html Find your model O'Day and go from there.
My O'Day 222 came through with this type of sheeting. It had a triangular plate attached to the back stay and the Main Sheet block and tackle hooked into it and attached to the back of the boom.
Later on, I mounted a traveler in front of the companionway and did away with the end of the boom sheeting. I removed the plate from the back stay and had a Johnson Handy-Lock installed just under the open turnbuckle. The Handy-Lock is similar to an adjustable back stay. I use it to put slack into my fore stay when I want to take my mast down. It saves a lot of time and I never have to fumble with cotter pins.

I'm not all that familiar with the O'Day 20, but it seems as though there should be a thru-hull fitting located at the lowest point on the transom, just under the lower gudgeon for the self bailing cockpit. My boat has a hose in the bilge for the self bailing cockpit.

I would wire the mast and install a coax cable for a Shakespeare Stubby antenna. You could mount the antenna up near the top of the mast, on the side of the mast. I wound also mount a 12" bracket for a Davis Windex up there too. You can buy a thru-hull coax connector to mount next to the mast tabernacle and an electric receptacle can go next to it for your anchor light at the top of your mast. I wouldn't bother mounting a steaming light. I had one on my mast that a rigger installed and I wound up removing it a couple of years ago. My O'Day 222 never came with one.

I would get some prices on two new sails and buy a sail cover for your main sail. Keep your new sails covered when not in use, as much as possible. The sun has a way of rotting them.
The main sail should have at least one set of reefing points, a Cunningham, and sail slides on the luff. I favor sail slides on the foot of the sail as well.
Try to haggle with them on the price of the sails. They can come down if they really want your business.

As for modifications; I really don't know because I'm not too familiar with the O'Day 20. One of my friends had one, but I don't remember to much about it. Click on to my "Owner's Photos" under the name "Trinkka" and you may pick up some ideas that you can use on your boat. I think that the most fun of owning a boat is doing the changes or "mods" if you will, that really personalize a boat. Every year I do at least one or two to my boat. This year I did two and it was fun. Good luck with the 20!

Joe

Joe11688 · May 9, 2011

jljl said:
Thanks, that was very helpful.
Oddly enough though she does not have a through fitting at the lowest point on the transom.
The cockpit drains at the foremost point just aft of the companionway. There it connects to a hose that then goes to a through fitting out the bottom of the hull. I thought that it would have maked more sense to angle the cockpit floor aft and have the drain in the back of the cockpit, but not the case.

Thanks again.

You may want to check those hoses if you can, just to make sure they're in good condition. I figured that it had some kind of a self bailing system but I wasn't sure of how it was configured. I think you'll have a lot of fun with that boat. It's just the right size for single handed sailing and coastal cruising.
I just launched my boat today. I was able to get my mast up with the aid of my Gin Pole today with wind gusts up to what seemed like 30 mph at times. She floated of the trailer pretty easy too. It really wasn't the best day to do it, but the tide was just right and I didn't want to wait any longer than I had to, to get her on the mooring. Good luck with the OD 20 Josh!
Joe

LordNelson · May 13, 2011

i have an oday 20 and the hull does not have a drain, at least not one i have ever found. it does have a single cockpit drain which goes through the hull.

my hose needed replacing as it was hard to find anything that could make the 2 tight 90 degree turns between the cockpit floor and hull fitting without kinking. I used a premium marine 1" water hardwall sae 2006 100-1000-1 which the local marine suggested and that worked.

you can try finding some used sails at www.baconsails.com

i would highly recommend you install a permanent swim ladder as a safety feature, especially if you are sailing solo. i installed one from www.railmakers.com. you will need to back it with something inside the hull. i also had to fashion some oak wedges to fit the curved hull on the exterior.

it's a fun boat. on windy days you can reef the main by pulling out the boom and rolling the sail on the boom. i don't have roller reefing so i use a smaller thistle jib on those days and the boat sail great.

Lubberdink · May 14, 2011

Another O'day 20 Owner

Josh,
We got our '77 20 a year ago and love it. We also moved up from a 16' Skipper Snipe that was just too much work and too much wet for us old folks. We've been working on ours this spring getting ready to get 'er wet. I just added a hatch on the in the port rear cockpit seat. It has some storage place and there was no real easy way to get to it.
I've also been working on the teak rails. Sanding down and re-varnishing. The PO did it at one time but looks like he slopped it on with a broom. Windows are also etched from varnish running over them so need to do those as well. But we sailed her last year and could float her right now. Just trying to pretty her up.
I agree with the swim ladder. Ours came with it and not only is it handy on the water, it makes getting in and out to do maintenance and pre-trip loading a LOT easier.
Also added a Windex and little porta potty (for the first mate-she doesn't like hanging it over the side and the 5 gal bucket with a seat wasn't very classy either).
Companionway boards were rotted when I got 'er so since a buddy of mine works at a lumber yard, I got some ship-lap redwood siding and cut to fit then varnished them well. They slide in one by one (about five sections) and make a real nice look.

Welcome to the 20 club and the site. Happy sailing

PS-Kudos to Joe for the good suggestions

Lubberdink · May 15, 2011

I actually left the port bulkhead but it's only a piece of thin plywood like a floor underlayment. There's a square cut out of mine with a couple of hinges and a latch but pretty flimsy. That was the only access to that part of the cockpit under the seat but now with the hatch placed about 6" aft of the bulkhead it's accessible and really no reason to go in from the berth.

I don't have a (I think it's called a clamshell vent-I'm new at this too) on the bow of mine so never thougth about running a rode that way. We have our anchor and rode in an old milk carton we store down below and bring up when needed. I am planning to put in a vent on the bow as there is none (zero, nada) ventilation up in the V-berth. Would like a pic of your vent if you can post one.
I too am thinking about an access hatch up under the v berth as that seems to be a lot of wasted space. I think Joe on the Trinkka had a picture of his (maybe it was another on though-I've looked at a lot of owner pics getting ideas).
I also just added a drink holder made out of cedar that's varnished and plan on using it. My water bottle kept rolling around the cockpit floor.

Hope you enjoy your 20 as much as we do.

Keep yer mast pointed skyward---
-r-

Joe11688 · May 16, 2011

jljl said:
I was thinking about taking that bulkhead aft of the port berth to access that very area that you made the hatch for.
I haven't investigated yet whether it does anything structurally or not.
Did you keep it?
I was also thinking of putting in a hatch to gain access to the area under the V-berth, as I don't currently have any access to all that space.

Lastly, did you modify anything for your anchor rode to stow below deck?
I was thinking of running it down that vent thingamajiggy on the fore deck.
I regret that I don't know what the proper name for that scooplike vent.
That probably isn't kosher though?

Thanks,

Josh

Josh,
The best thing that I've found for stowing the anchor line is a cut down milk crate. I spliced two rope handles to it and I keep it tied to my bow pulpit so it doesn't go over the side. I run the bitter end of my anchor line through the basket and tie it off to my bow rail but I have a Herreshoff cleat that is in like with my anchor roller that I use to cleat off my anchor. All I do is drop the line loosly in the crate as I pull up my anchor. When I drop my anchor, the line runs right out of the crate without tangles and knots. I added two thin Teak skids to the bottom of the crate so that it sits on the curved deck a little better.

The crate has had it's advantages on my boat. On a few occasions I've had to pull my anchor up from the cockpit while manning my outboard. I use two snatch blocks at the bottom of my lifeline rails for my anchor line. The rope handles allow me to move my anchor line to the cockpit and tie it off on my stern cleat until I'm ready to hoist the anchor. This is where the off-set anchor roller on the bow of my boat comes in very handy.
On a couple of occasions I woke up in the morning and discovered that the wind had changed over night and the stern of my boat was close to the shore of an island and the tide is low. Being able to hold my boat from drifting into shore with my outboard power while I raise the anchor this way, is well worth the set up effort.

Years ago when I didn't know any better, I used to coil up my anchor line each time I raised the anchor only to have it get tangled with knots and twists when I had to get the anchor down in a hurry. Then I said to myself, "what the heck am I doing this for?" "This is dumb!" "There has to be a better way." After that, I started dropping the line on the fore deck as I pulled the anchor line up and that worked great because I did it for years, but it didn't look all the good. That's when I decided to use a milk crate, but I only needed it to be a few inches high, so I cut it down and made rope handles for it.
Give it a shot. If you don't like it, try something else.

emergpa1 · May 16, 2011

Hey Joe,
I mounted a bow roller for my anchor this spring but when I pull up the anchor the shackle where the rope connects to the chain, and again where the chain is connected to the anchor gets caught on the roller. I ran the line back to the cockpit like you did so I could winch it up. If the bow roller was larger it probably wouldn't get caught. But I just bought this one and don't want to buy another. Is there a different solution?
Thanks
Keith

Joe11688 · May 16, 2011

emergpa1 said:
Hey Joe,
I mounted a bow roller for my anchor this spring but when I pull up the anchor the shackle where the rope connects to the chain, and again where the chain is connected to the anchor gets caught on the roller. I ran the line back to the cockpit like you did so I could winch it up. If the bow roller was larger it probably wouldn't get caught. But I just bought this one and don't want to buy another. Is there a different solution?
Thanks
Keith

Hi Keith,
Yes there is. I used regular galvanized shackles and tightened the heck out of them. Then I peened the end of the bolts with a hammer and metal punch, and cut the protruding ears with the holes in them, off of each of them. I also have a swivel on my chain between the braid line and the chain. They make a special swivel that won't hang up, but it's too pricey. All my shackles are about the same diameter as my chain and I was able to get away with cutting ears off them so that they don't hang up in my roller. They probably have slim connectors on the market for the anchor chain very similar to the slim swivel that sells for like $60, but like everything else in marine hardware, you'd pay all outside for it.
Joe

Lubberdink · May 16, 2011

Re: Clamshell Vent

Great pics. I'm thinking about putting one on mine as well but was thinking not only about the water issue but also how to put some screen over it to keep the bugs out.
My swim ladder has 3 rungs and folds up with a piece of strap and snap that holds it up. It frequently falls down but no big deal. Thought about putting on a second strap. But it's a nice addition. inside the transom you can see that whomever put it on put a plywood plate inside to strengthen it. Looks like a pretty straight-forward design.
If you want closeup pics let me know and I'l shoot a few.
Happy sailing.

Joe11688 · May 17, 2011

Lubberdink said:
Great pics. I'm thinking about putting one on mine as well but was thinking not only about the water issue but also how to put some screen over it to keep the bugs out.
My swim ladder has 3 rungs and folds up with a piece of strap and snap that holds it up. It frequently falls down but no big deal. Thought about putting on a second strap. But it's a nice addition. inside the transom you can see that whomever put it on put a plywood plate inside to strengthen it. Looks like a pretty straight-forward design.
If you want closeup pics let me know and I'l shoot a few.
Happy sailing.

You can't beat an anchor roller Captain Rocky. You only need to unhook the anchor and give it a little shove out of the roller. My late pal and fellow club member Walter had given me that FX-11 Fortress Aluminum anchor before he sold his 24' Chris Craft cabin cruiser years ago and I love it. I also keep another Danforth on board.

As for the bugs and mosquitoes; I have that one covered too. One of my other friends gave me a companionway screen that has weights on the bottom. He had bought it at "Worst Marine."
For the forward hatch; I made up a screen for it by cutting a square piece of Fiberglass mesh screen and glued four strips of Velcro along the edges of it. I just stick it to the head liner fabric around the edges of the hatch on the inside and the screen covers the hatch from the inside. I had done the same thing to the companionway hatch years ago, but I glued fabric strips to the Teak molding for the Velcro hooks on the hatch screen. Today, I favor the companionway screen that my friend gave me. I just tie it off to the handrails on each side of the top of the cabin, slide the hatch closed and pull the screen over the hatch opening. This screen just fits my hatch opening, so it may fit your's with plenty of room to spare.

My swim ladder had a 3/16" bungee cord with a hook on it when I first got the boat, I think. I didn't care much for that set up so I tied a 3/16" braid line to the top of my ladder and the other end is tied near the bottom of the ladder. I use a "Highwayman's Hitch" to hold the ladder in the up position. If for some reason I ever fall overboard, I can swim to the stern and pull on the braid line and the hitch will come undone and gain me access to the ladder.

LordNelson · May 17, 2011

i use a solid bin instead of a milk crate so any mud stays in the bin. i don't anchor enough to do anything else.

i have a hatch in front of the mast on the cabin roof a previous owner installed. it is weak and a pain when raising/lowering sails as i don't dare step on it and it is in the way.

i usually not in favor of putting holes in the boat for vents etc, especially if over a bunk as they all seem to leak at some point. i think the less holes in the balsa deck the better, but then i mainly day sail and have yet to spend a night on it.

emergpa1 · May 17, 2011

Trinkka said:
Hi Keith,
Yes there is. I used regular galvanized shackles and tightened the heck out of them. Then I peened the end of the bolts with a hammer and metal punch, and cut the protruding ears with the holes in them, off of each of them. I also have a swivel on my chain between the braid line and the chain. They make a special swivel that won't hang up, but it's too pricey. All my shackles are about the same diameter as my chain and I was able to get away with cutting ears off them so that they don't hang up in my roller. They probably have slim connectors on the market for the anchor chain very similar to the slim swivel that sells for like $60, but like everything else in marine hardware, you'd pay all outside for it.
Joe

thanks joe, i will look into that. what are the two blocks in the pic on the right, are those part of the anchor set up? If so, in what way?
thanks
keith

Joe11688 · May 17, 2011

emergpa1 said:
thanks joe, i will look into that. what are the two blocks in the pic on the right, are those part of the anchor set up? If so, in what way?
thanks
keith

I bought those two snatch blocks for cheap money at a Newport RI marine consignment store. I break them out and attach them to the bases of my Starboard lifeline stanchions when I need to pull the anchor up from the cockpit while holding the boat's position with the outboard. These are great because you can attach them to anything, open them up and lay the line in and close it. They also come in handy for other tasks on the boat. Most of the time I keep them stored in the cabin in my ditty bag with all my boat tools and other odds and ends.

Sunbird22358 · May 17, 2011

Any O'DAY specific parts and PLENTY of great advice, can be had from Rudy Nickerson of D&R Marine, (508) 644-3001 www.drmarine.com
He used to be the Parts Dept .Manager at O'DAY and now runs a little "mom & pop" store (litteraly, it is really just Rudy and his wife, Debbie!) in Assonet, MA selling O'DAY Parts. He has OEM Sails available.

New Oday 20 owner

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