I would like to get a few takes on my situation. I did OK in our Regattas the first year I have owned my Hunter 26.5, and my first year owning a fixed keel boat. Presently, the main is showing some real wear. It is probably the original sail from 1988!! I have a rip on the fore end of top batten; I find it is difficult to keep the draft forward; in general, it always seems to have too much draft; the top leech tends to curl on port tack. I can, of course, have and/or fix the defects. However, should I choke it up for a new main?? Will a new main really elevate the performance, pointing in, etc., or is the expectations greater than the actual gain?? Other questions: radial main verses standard as to performance? How much draft for inland lakes, 8 to 15 knot winds?? 12%?? Thanks all, Chaos
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Sailmaker's Input
Go for it and have a sailmaker measure your boat for a new main. With propper care, you should get at least 10-15 seasons out of a good well made loose footed dacron main. You could add some 'racing' upgrades such as a full top batten and longer (IOR length) batttens elsewhere, plus max hoist and max out haul measurements and accurate measurements of the luff curve with the mast 'relaxed' and with a back stay adjuster 'on' if you have one. Think about two reef points as more adjustability than one deep reef; plus cunningham cringle, draft stripes and sail numbers. The loose footed main can run the full adjustment range from dead flat to full draft more quickly than a bolt rope foot. In my opinion, you don't need to go with high tech sail cloth on boats this size. That said, a tri-radial cut mylar/dacron scrim combination may give slightly better performance over a longer initial period of time than the bi-radial dacron version and well more than the super lightweight racing mains that last only a couple seasons.
Go for it and have a sailmaker measure your boat for a new main. With propper care, you should get at least 10-15 seasons out of a good well made loose footed dacron main. You could add some 'racing' upgrades such as a full top batten and longer (IOR length) batttens elsewhere, plus max hoist and max out haul measurements and accurate measurements of the luff curve with the mast 'relaxed' and with a back stay adjuster 'on' if you have one. Think about two reef points as more adjustability than one deep reef; plus cunningham cringle, draft stripes and sail numbers. The loose footed main can run the full adjustment range from dead flat to full draft more quickly than a bolt rope foot. In my opinion, you don't need to go with high tech sail cloth on boats this size. That said, a tri-radial cut mylar/dacron scrim combination may give slightly better performance over a longer initial period of time than the bi-radial dacron version and well more than the super lightweight racing mains that last only a couple seasons.
Your 26.5 is a sleeper. That boat has real potential. BUT it needs a good suite of sails and good running gear. Sure its gonna cost money but what exactly are you looking for? Get rid of that old blown out cloth and get into some quality sails. You wont believe the difference in your boat. Get some quotes from a few sail makers. Definitely triradial laminate will perform the best and hold its shape through a much wider wind range than dacron.
I can tell you...
that even a simple "recut", adding full battens, and conversion to loose footed made a huge difference in my 28.5s performance and I wasn't even racing it. Yes, new sails will make a huge difference, especially if made by a loft with local experience.
that even a simple "recut", adding full battens, and conversion to loose footed made a huge difference in my 28.5s performance and I wasn't even racing it. Yes, new sails will make a huge difference, especially if made by a loft with local experience.
A new main
is like dropping a new engine in your old car. When I bought my 1986 H28.5 in 2003, I feel certain it came with the OEM main. Soft as a an old flannel shirt and really baggy. Did it work? Yep, it moved the boat. But it was almost impossible to flatten out when the winds were up and so the boat would heel excessively. I had a new main made by North and really love it. I second the motion offered by Steward Sauer below: talk to a reputable sailmaker about measuring your boat and making you a new main. The smile on your face when you first hoist it and sail with it will be well worth the money.
is like dropping a new engine in your old car. When I bought my 1986 H28.5 in 2003, I feel certain it came with the OEM main. Soft as a an old flannel shirt and really baggy. Did it work? Yep, it moved the boat. But it was almost impossible to flatten out when the winds were up and so the boat would heel excessively. I had a new main made by North and really love it. I second the motion offered by Steward Sauer below: talk to a reputable sailmaker about measuring your boat and making you a new main. The smile on your face when you first hoist it and sail with it will be well worth the money.
Loose foot
Thanks for everyones input.OK, I GOT IT, a new main it is. One question for Sauer: is a loose footed main adjusted with short reef points? Great suggestions on measuring mast bend, etc. Chaos
Thanks for everyones input.OK, I GOT IT, a new main it is. One question for Sauer: is a loose footed main adjusted with short reef points? Great suggestions on measuring mast bend, etc. Chaos
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