First of all, I think all holes in boat hulls are stupid. This confirms that opinion. Now, I never worried about the plastic plug thingy at the bottom of the mast crutch on a H23.5 since the hole is drilled through the lip external which is outside the boat. Well, today we were finishing the painting and I notice the screw head on the bottom of the boat was wet. So I unscrewed the phillips screw and nut on the plastic plug and water started pouring out...FROM WHERE?? I can look up the hole and see sky??? I took a small piece of wire and bent it and slipped it into the hole from the bottom. It went up then turned forward and went into a void between the bottom of the boat and the inside of the boat. The boat has been out of the water for a month and is absolutly dry inside. A dehumidifier inside assured no moisture even from the air. It looks like there may be a 1/8 inch space inside the almost 1 inch thick hull at the stern. Anybody ever notice something like this before. There are no soft spots, and this is not in a cored area. My intention is to dry it out then fill it as best as I can before resealing it. Thoughts??
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rebed your fittings
I had a smililar problem on our 23.5 I resealed the hardware for the mast crutch, the boarding ladder and the outboard bracket and the problem was solved. It might be time to check all the fittings and rebed them,even the ones on the deck.
I had a smililar problem on our 23.5 I resealed the hardware for the mast crutch, the boarding ladder and the outboard bracket and the problem was solved. It might be time to check all the fittings and rebed them,even the ones on the deck.
Agree that rebedding will fix it..
but how much water can be stored inside voids in the hull of the boat?? If it leaked into the boat, I could understand it, but its leaking into the hull itself and not into the boat, and when I pulled the screw out, maybe 3-4 ounces of water came out. not a lot, but from a 3/16 inch hole a half inch deep?? I'm going to use thickend epoxy forced into the void, then use 4200 to seal the screw, but it still bothers me that the void is there. Also I have no idea how big the void is and does it eventually end up inside the boat? The boat appears to have no leaks, from the water, but does pick up water sailing, and with rain. I think I'm just frustrated that even if I fix it, I won't know if there are other voids filling with water??
but how much water can be stored inside voids in the hull of the boat?? If it leaked into the boat, I could understand it, but its leaking into the hull itself and not into the boat, and when I pulled the screw out, maybe 3-4 ounces of water came out. not a lot, but from a 3/16 inch hole a half inch deep?? I'm going to use thickend epoxy forced into the void, then use 4200 to seal the screw, but it still bothers me that the void is there. Also I have no idea how big the void is and does it eventually end up inside the boat? The boat appears to have no leaks, from the water, but does pick up water sailing, and with rain. I think I'm just frustrated that even if I fix it, I won't know if there are other voids filling with water??
expert time
After 12 years, time to rebed and it sounds like this is the case. Remember that the mast crutch base is being pulled and tugged and that may break the seal. Let dry, and then add a good silicon if above water and I suggest 5200 not the 4200 below the water.
After 12 years, time to rebed and it sounds like this is the case. Remember that the mast crutch base is being pulled and tugged and that may break the seal. Let dry, and then add a good silicon if above water and I suggest 5200 not the 4200 below the water.
update...
Mixed up some thickened epoxy and managed to cram it into the hole then forward, aft, and both port and starboard to seal up the inner void in the glass. After that cured, I used 5200 to rebed the screw. I feel pretty good about this rebedding and hope not to find any other unusual leaks. By the end of the summer, I hope to have all the rest of the "parts" rebedded. Also replaced the bunks on the trailer, and will tackle the bearings this week also.
Mixed up some thickened epoxy and managed to cram it into the hole then forward, aft, and both port and starboard to seal up the inner void in the glass. After that cured, I used 5200 to rebed the screw. I feel pretty good about this rebedding and hope not to find any other unusual leaks. By the end of the summer, I hope to have all the rest of the "parts" rebedded. Also replaced the bunks on the trailer, and will tackle the bearings this week also.
Another area that holds water
Jack and Dave, Here is a question for both of you. I have a 2002 Hunter 240 in the Chesapeake. I plumbing a new MSD porti-potty this spring before putting the boat in the slip for the season. While running the waste and vent line I opened the forward compartment (under the anchor locker - most forward part of bow) and found quite a bit of water. It probably amounted to a quart or more. I tried locating the leak and thought it may be the front stanchion. I rebedded the stanchion and thought I solved the leak. We have had numerous drenching thunderstorms in the past few weeks so last week I opened the compartment to see if it were still dry. Sure enough the water is back - about a quart. The thru-hole and hose for the anchor locker drain seem dry as does the anchor locker. The only other thing I can think of is the hull connection at the rub rail. Any thoughts? Ron
Jack and Dave, Here is a question for both of you. I have a 2002 Hunter 240 in the Chesapeake. I plumbing a new MSD porti-potty this spring before putting the boat in the slip for the season. While running the waste and vent line I opened the forward compartment (under the anchor locker - most forward part of bow) and found quite a bit of water. It probably amounted to a quart or more. I tried locating the leak and thought it may be the front stanchion. I rebedded the stanchion and thought I solved the leak. We have had numerous drenching thunderstorms in the past few weeks so last week I opened the compartment to see if it were still dry. Sure enough the water is back - about a quart. The thru-hole and hose for the anchor locker drain seem dry as does the anchor locker. The only other thing I can think of is the hull connection at the rub rail. Any thoughts? Ron
suggestions
on the trailer, the bearings turn on an what we call racers. If replacing the bearings, always replace the racers. Make sure you lube up the bearings with grease before putting those rascals on. Force it in with your hand. On the 240, you have two hasps that hold the anchor locker in place, drain hose from the anchor locker, bow pulpit and fairleads if you have the roller furling option. First, I would highly suspect the white thru hull of the anchor locker drain may have broken its seal, loose hose connection or possible puncture of the hose to be the culprits or culprit. The next would be the fairleads for the roller furling line. Then the next item would be the anchor lid hasps and then the bow pulpit. I doubt seriously you have a leake in the hull to deck joint covered up by the rub rail. When all else fails, then close all opening ports tight, place tape over the forward hatch and seal the companionway with plastic taped around. Slit the plastic, insert leaf blower, tape around the blower which will then pressurize the cabin. Have a allot of soapy water in a bucket and brush. Then brush everyting and look for the air bubbles. That will tell you where your souce of water is coming in but I suspect the thru hull fitting in the bottom of the anchor locker and/or the hose connection. Good luck.
on the trailer, the bearings turn on an what we call racers. If replacing the bearings, always replace the racers. Make sure you lube up the bearings with grease before putting those rascals on. Force it in with your hand. On the 240, you have two hasps that hold the anchor locker in place, drain hose from the anchor locker, bow pulpit and fairleads if you have the roller furling option. First, I would highly suspect the white thru hull of the anchor locker drain may have broken its seal, loose hose connection or possible puncture of the hose to be the culprits or culprit. The next would be the fairleads for the roller furling line. Then the next item would be the anchor lid hasps and then the bow pulpit. I doubt seriously you have a leake in the hull to deck joint covered up by the rub rail. When all else fails, then close all opening ports tight, place tape over the forward hatch and seal the companionway with plastic taped around. Slit the plastic, insert leaf blower, tape around the blower which will then pressurize the cabin. Have a allot of soapy water in a bucket and brush. Then brush everyting and look for the air bubbles. That will tell you where your souce of water is coming in but I suspect the thru hull fitting in the bottom of the anchor locker and/or the hose connection. Good luck.
Leaks
I have had one leak that seemed to defy locating until I was on my boat in the rain one day and found that the drain in the rear of the cockpit had a pinhole in the drain line that was filling my bilge slowly during rainstorms and washdowns. This water was getting forward of the bulkhead under the floor. I also read "Sailing Away From Winter" by Silver Donald Cameron and he had a leak in a Magnus 30 at the keel that they sealed with self expanding foam....a unique approach. It held from Nova Scotia to the Bahamas and back if I remember correctly.
I have had one leak that seemed to defy locating until I was on my boat in the rain one day and found that the drain in the rear of the cockpit had a pinhole in the drain line that was filling my bilge slowly during rainstorms and washdowns. This water was getting forward of the bulkhead under the floor. I also read "Sailing Away From Winter" by Silver Donald Cameron and he had a leak in a Magnus 30 at the keel that they sealed with self expanding foam....a unique approach. It held from Nova Scotia to the Bahamas and back if I remember correctly.
Ck the bow eye
Our 2000 H240 leaked from the bow eye which had been pulled too aggressively, settled over time or just loosened from road vibration. While you're in there you might want to fabricate a better backing plate and rebed it. Good luck in your search. Michael
Our 2000 H240 leaked from the bow eye which had been pulled too aggressively, settled over time or just loosened from road vibration. While you're in there you might want to fabricate a better backing plate and rebed it. Good luck in your search. Michael
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