I have Yanmar 27hp and my Racor 120 fuel filter plugs at the worst times (usually in rough Canadian waters). I don't know if the mixing in tank or fuel is problem but it happens. I have a 10 micron in primary and 2 micron in secondary. I have cleaned tank, replaced line, secondary filter, used additive, removed screen and its works for awhile but I want an easier method of changing primary filter. Question 1 Reading posts it sounds like a Racor 500 may be the solution. My Racor 120 has a pump for bleeding the air but the Racor 500 does not seem to have any method to prime the filter or bleed the air. How is this accomplished? What would be the procedure for changing the filter? Question 2 Since the Racor 500 is easier to change, should I put a 2 micron in the primary and also a 2 micron in the secondary? I realize the primary will plug up faster but it is a alot easier to change under way. Question 3 Is there a reasonable cost/benefit with a vacuum gage to monitor filter pressure drop? Question 4 How critical is it to locate the fuel filter in engine compartment? I have limited space and might consider another location. Thanks Gary
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Dave
I'd look at the source ....
Sorry I can't answer any of your questions. But it makes me wonder about the source of the problem. If your are changing fuel filters annually, that should be enough (from everything I know). Your fuel source must have issues. Have you thought of filtering as you fill your tank? I know there are devices that allow you to do that.
Sorry I can't answer any of your questions. But it makes me wonder about the source of the problem. If your are changing fuel filters annually, that should be enough (from everything I know). Your fuel source must have issues. Have you thought of filtering as you fill your tank? I know there are devices that allow you to do that.
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DAid L
Try this.....
If the tank is clean as you say. Change the primary to a 30 micron and the secondary to a 10 micron. I believe this is what they should be anyway. Anyone else want to weigh in? David
If the tank is clean as you say. Change the primary to a 30 micron and the secondary to a 10 micron. I believe this is what they should be anyway. Anyone else want to weigh in? David
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Jim Rushing
Temporary Fix
After having my engine stop twice unexepectedly, I replaced the filter with one that has a clear bowl. I can now see what is going on. I also reused the old filter and put it in parallel with the new filter with valves. This way if the filter plugs up I can switch filters and run the engine long enough to get into port. The other advantage is that I close off the fuel lines when changing a filter and it makes it easier to bleed.
After having my engine stop twice unexepectedly, I replaced the filter with one that has a clear bowl. I can now see what is going on. I also reused the old filter and put it in parallel with the new filter with valves. This way if the filter plugs up I can switch filters and run the engine long enough to get into port. The other advantage is that I close off the fuel lines when changing a filter and it makes it easier to bleed.
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Patrick
Trucking
A friend solved a frequent blockage problem by having an eighteen wheeler diesel mechanic install a truck filtern on a 376 It was not expensive but it is big. there may be a downside other than size but he is happy.
A friend solved a frequent blockage problem by having an eighteen wheeler diesel mechanic install a truck filtern on a 376 It was not expensive but it is big. there may be a downside other than size but he is happy.
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Tom
Second Filter
Nice Job! What kind of valves did you use? This is avery smart thing to do. The first time I saw it done was on a Kaliber 40 where they have everything coming together in a nice neat Manifold & filter locker. Nothing wrong with your installation though. You have to take advantage of the space available. The clear bowl is a good idea. With that you should get an indication very quickly if there is water in the fuel. Nice work. Good thinking.
Nice Job! What kind of valves did you use? This is avery smart thing to do. The first time I saw it done was on a Kaliber 40 where they have everything coming together in a nice neat Manifold & filter locker. Nothing wrong with your installation though. You have to take advantage of the space available. The clear bowl is a good idea. With that you should get an indication very quickly if there is water in the fuel. Nice work. Good thinking.
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J. Tesoriero
Some suggestions
I agree with the previuos posts that you must find the source of your fuel contamination. It most probably is the fuel that you are buying which should be properly filtered before it enters your tank. The new West Marine fuel filter funnel is highly rated and cheap! I have a RACOR series 500 with a clear bowl and it works great. I added an outboard type primer bulb in the line from the tank and can easily primer the filter body and fuel system when I change filter elements. You should be able to use the 10 micron filter and get one or more seasons out of it. If you have a clear bowl on the filter you probably won't need a vacuum gauge to tell you that things are getting dirty. Lastly, I don't think it matters where you put the filter as long as it is not too close to the engine exhaust system. You also do not want it where a spill might keep a diesel smell in the boat.
I agree with the previuos posts that you must find the source of your fuel contamination. It most probably is the fuel that you are buying which should be properly filtered before it enters your tank. The new West Marine fuel filter funnel is highly rated and cheap! I have a RACOR series 500 with a clear bowl and it works great. I added an outboard type primer bulb in the line from the tank and can easily primer the filter body and fuel system when I change filter elements. You should be able to use the 10 micron filter and get one or more seasons out of it. If you have a clear bowl on the filter you probably won't need a vacuum gauge to tell you that things are getting dirty. Lastly, I don't think it matters where you put the filter as long as it is not too close to the engine exhaust system. You also do not want it where a spill might keep a diesel smell in the boat.
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Gary
Racor 500
E-mailed my questions to Racor and they said the following: No need to prime or bleed air on filter change, just drain, install new filter, and then FILL FILTER with clean fuel. (I guess you just have a jug of clean fuel sitting around?) Pressure drop if filter is located too far from engine fuel pump...best is closer. He said big problem is junk in tank, but ok to use 2 micron until it is solved. I am going to purchase the Racor 500 and then work on the tank problem. Thanks guys for your comments Gary
E-mailed my questions to Racor and they said the following: No need to prime or bleed air on filter change, just drain, install new filter, and then FILL FILTER with clean fuel. (I guess you just have a jug of clean fuel sitting around?) Pressure drop if filter is located too far from engine fuel pump...best is closer. He said big problem is junk in tank, but ok to use 2 micron until it is solved. I am going to purchase the Racor 500 and then work on the tank problem. Thanks guys for your comments Gary
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Tom S.
Vacuum gauge is really easy to instal on Racor
I highly recommend....its about $65 on sale and just needs an "l" fitting to mount. When the vacuum pressure starts going up to 5-7 psi (hg?) then you know its starting to get a bit clogged and time to replace. I have a 2 micron primary and 2 micron secondary (don't know why? Boat came with it) and I also put the vacuum guage on. I have never had a problem yet. I have 400 hours on the engine over 4 years and never changed either filter. The vacuum guage hasn't moved and the bowl has no sediment in it whatsoever. I guess I have always gotten real clean fuel....Knock on wood (knock, knock, knock)
I highly recommend....its about $65 on sale and just needs an "l" fitting to mount. When the vacuum pressure starts going up to 5-7 psi (hg?) then you know its starting to get a bit clogged and time to replace. I have a 2 micron primary and 2 micron secondary (don't know why? Boat came with it) and I also put the vacuum guage on. I have never had a problem yet. I have 400 hours on the engine over 4 years and never changed either filter. The vacuum guage hasn't moved and the bowl has no sediment in it whatsoever. I guess I have always gotten real clean fuel....Knock on wood (knock, knock, knock)
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Brian
Racor should be 30 Micron
For what it is worth....I can't remember if Racor or Yanamr told me, but the primary should be 30 micron and the secondary 2 micron. (at least for my 3JH3E). The local diesel mechanic confirmed this while doing an injector check the other day. Brian Crew Rest
For what it is worth....I can't remember if Racor or Yanamr told me, but the primary should be 30 micron and the secondary 2 micron. (at least for my 3JH3E). The local diesel mechanic confirmed this while doing an injector check the other day. Brian Crew Rest
with only one filter...
Gary: We only have one racor filter on ours. The Yanmar mechanic recommmended a 10 micron filter (I had a 2 as a spare). I would think that a primary Racor with a 30 and a secondary with a 2 micron or 10 micron would be a good combination. Another thing since you have 2 racors. Have you thought about setting up a bypass circuit. If you engine stops because the primary is plugged, you could turn a couple of valves and you would be running off the secondary until you get to port? I have to agree with the other posters that you need to find the source of the contamination. This is paramount to curing the problem. Have you check your fuel source? They may have a problem. I would consider draining your tank and disposing of the fuel (in a recycling center or some place that will accept it) and start with a clean batch. You can get one of those filters from West Marine. If you are getting contamination in the fuel you should be able to see it in the filter.
Gary: We only have one racor filter on ours. The Yanmar mechanic recommmended a 10 micron filter (I had a 2 as a spare). I would think that a primary Racor with a 30 and a secondary with a 2 micron or 10 micron would be a good combination. Another thing since you have 2 racors. Have you thought about setting up a bypass circuit. If you engine stops because the primary is plugged, you could turn a couple of valves and you would be running off the secondary until you get to port? I have to agree with the other posters that you need to find the source of the contamination. This is paramount to curing the problem. Have you check your fuel source? They may have a problem. I would consider draining your tank and disposing of the fuel (in a recycling center or some place that will accept it) and start with a clean batch. You can get one of those filters from West Marine. If you are getting contamination in the fuel you should be able to see it in the filter.
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