removehtml]I need someone with experience in replacing the flax in the stuffing box a Hunter 27. The engine has been upgraded to a Yanmar 2GM in my boat. The problem is there is only 3/16" between the stuffing box and the threaded housing which is not enough room to remove the old stuffing. I am thinking that I will have to remove the 8 screws holding the engine mounts and pull the engine forward toward the bow, or loosen the propellar shaft at the transmission output flange and pull the propellar shaft backward after removing the propellar shaft flange. The flange on the propellar shaft does not look like it is going to come off easily. I am leaning toward sliding the engine forward. Does that sound like the best way? Thanks, MikeError: Error: expected [/URL], but found [/removehtml] instead[/removehtml]
new flax packing for the stuffing box
- Thread starter mike16498
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another idea
Mike, Let me suggest if you need to do all that work to replace the stuffing box material you may want to think about a pss shaft seal they are almost maintance free for about 7 to 10 years and you will not have to remove the engine from the mounting bed. It sounds like you engine modification/upgrade has changed some dimension from the original installation so you will need to make sure a pss shaft seal will fit. It will require that you pull the shaft (at least several inches and that would seam easier and a better idea,also a good time to replace your cutlass bearing and making your drive shaft virtually maintenance free for many years. Just another thought....
Mike, Let me suggest if you need to do all that work to replace the stuffing box material you may want to think about a pss shaft seal they are almost maintance free for about 7 to 10 years and you will not have to remove the engine from the mounting bed. It sounds like you engine modification/upgrade has changed some dimension from the original installation so you will need to make sure a pss shaft seal will fit. It will require that you pull the shaft (at least several inches and that would seam easier and a better idea,also a good time to replace your cutlass bearing and making your drive shaft virtually maintenance free for many years. Just another thought....
lift the engine
Mike, After uncoupling the shaft from the transmission maybe you can lift the engine high enough to pull the shaft forward underneath the engine. I have a 1GM and use the boom vang fastened to the boom above and to the loop on the engine to pull the engine off the mounts. In the yeard with the prop off it is easy to pull the shaft into the boat. I don't think I could loosen the flange on the shaft in place, and not touching the mounts themselves helps in aligning the engine afterwards. Good luck.
Mike, After uncoupling the shaft from the transmission maybe you can lift the engine high enough to pull the shaft forward underneath the engine. I have a 1GM and use the boom vang fastened to the boom above and to the loop on the engine to pull the engine off the mounts. In the yeard with the prop off it is easy to pull the shaft into the boat. I don't think I could loosen the flange on the shaft in place, and not touching the mounts themselves helps in aligning the engine afterwards. Good luck.
I replaced the flax packing in the stuffing box
Well after looking at the situation, I dedided to remove the engine mount bolts, slide the engine forward which increased the opening of the stuffing box. I cleaned up the shaft a little, repacked the stuffing box and slid the engine back into place and made up the stuffing box onto the threaded portion. I was able to get the engine back pretty close to its origninal location because I was left with an outline around the engine mounts on the mounting bed. I will now have to separate the propellar shaft flange from the transmission flange and align the 2 flanges to the proper specifications. I appreciate the help from all that answered. Thanks again. Mike
Well after looking at the situation, I dedided to remove the engine mount bolts, slide the engine forward which increased the opening of the stuffing box. I cleaned up the shaft a little, repacked the stuffing box and slid the engine back into place and made up the stuffing box onto the threaded portion. I was able to get the engine back pretty close to its origninal location because I was left with an outline around the engine mounts on the mounting bed. I will now have to separate the propellar shaft flange from the transmission flange and align the 2 flanges to the proper specifications. I appreciate the help from all that answered. Thanks again. Mike
Hunter 27 Alignment
Mike, Glad you were able to move the engine forward as suggested. I had repowered my H27 with a new YM15 two years ago. Last fall, I serviced the flax stuffing as suggested and did not realign enging. I had no problems with vibration, but I'm curious how you make out on your plan to realign. Even though my engine and flanges are only 2 years old, I'm in brackish water and there is some rust at flanges. I'm not looking forward to a realignment, but in the long run you may be right to do it anyway. Pls posy your results. Thanks Tony
Mike, Glad you were able to move the engine forward as suggested. I had repowered my H27 with a new YM15 two years ago. Last fall, I serviced the flax stuffing as suggested and did not realign enging. I had no problems with vibration, but I'm curious how you make out on your plan to realign. Even though my engine and flanges are only 2 years old, I'm in brackish water and there is some rust at flanges. I'm not looking forward to a realignment, but in the long run you may be right to do it anyway. Pls posy your results. Thanks Tony
I separated the propellar shaft from trans. flange
I did manage to separate the propellar flange from the transmission flange and the both flanges are out of alignment. The truth of the matter is that they never were aligned there is no way I could have affected the vertical alignment as much as it is out by just sliding the engine forward. The engine mounts do not have any provisions for adjustment. They are fixed to the mounting plade which screws into the bed and the mount arm which is coming off of the engine. The engine is high and there is no way of lowering it short of replacing the mounts. The weather has been bad up here in New York so I can't always get to the boat to complete the work. I plan on tackleing the situation again tomorrow. I will post the results as soon as possible. Mike
I did manage to separate the propellar flange from the transmission flange and the both flanges are out of alignment. The truth of the matter is that they never were aligned there is no way I could have affected the vertical alignment as much as it is out by just sliding the engine forward. The engine mounts do not have any provisions for adjustment. They are fixed to the mounting plade which screws into the bed and the mount arm which is coming off of the engine. The engine is high and there is no way of lowering it short of replacing the mounts. The weather has been bad up here in New York so I can't always get to the boat to complete the work. I plan on tackleing the situation again tomorrow. I will post the results as soon as possible. Mike
Aligning the Shaft
It seems like you need new mounts, or new mount placement. You really do need to align the shaft with the engine/tranny. I know it's a P.I.T.A. but you need to get it done. David Lady Lillie
It seems like you need new mounts, or new mount placement. You really do need to align the shaft with the engine/tranny. I know it's a P.I.T.A. but you need to get it done. David Lady Lillie
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