New Engine Parts for Repower Project

[morgantheship]

I am repowering my H27. I have removed the original Renault 8 Hp engine and have purchased a used (very good condition) Yanmar 2GM (16 Hp). I am planning on replacing all of the standard parts like belts, filters, etc. Below is the list of things I plan to replace. Any suggestions on additional parts I should replace and install before installing the engine into the boat?

* Air Filter
* Fuel Filter & Fuel Filter O Ring
* Oil Filter
* Alternator Belt
* Water Pump Belt
* Impeller
* Change Oil
* Change Transmission Oil
* Zinc & Zinc O Ring

Any other parts that I am missing?

PS - I am also putting on new engine mounts.

Thanks all.

 

[petersea]

just a few things come to mind but
what about thermostat and all engine water hoses ? radiator cap ? might be optional but as long as you are doing everything else can't hurt

 

[Benny]

Is the engine going to be raw water cooled or are you installing a heat exchanger for closed cooling system?

 

[Guest]

Yanmar 2GM

"Very good condition" is a relative term. Our fresh water cooled 2GM did not require a zinc, so I'm not sure why you need them. As far as all the other stuff goes, depending on the number of engine hours, does the air filter really need replacing?

If I were buying the engine my first step would be to have a Yanmar certified technician inspect it; compression test, valve adjustment, bench test the injectors, etc. The technician can also advise you on what the 2GM needs that perhaps your boat cannot provide in its current configuration.

Just a few possible problem areas:

1. Throttle cable, too short and/or wrong adapter?
2. Shifter cable, too short and/or wrong adapter?
3. Transmission to prop shaft coupler misaligned and/or unadaptable?
4. Raw water input/output hoses too short and/or wrong size (assumes raw water cooled)?
5. Captured cooled system has a separate set of possible problem areas similar to raw water cooled.
6. As mentioned in a different thread, our H28 used a 2GM20F engine with a 15X12RH two blade prop, which worked very well on our boat. A prop shop can verify whether your old prop is of the proper size and pitch for the new engine.

Just to give you an idea of what to expect, imagine trying to replace a Ford Escort engine with an engine made by General Motors. Seems simple enough until you take on the task.

Good luck!

Terry

 

[Ray T]

Re: Yanmar 2GM

Forgive my ignorance, does a marine diesel have an air filter? Ive only had gas engines and they had a backfire restricter.

 

[morgantheship]

Engine is Raw water cooled.

 

[morgantheship]

Re: Yanmar 2GM

Thanks for the insightful suggestions and comments from "Terry". I posted this so that I would receive the type of input that you provided and I thank you for that as this is truly a learning experience for me. The points you raise are excellent ones. You are correct about 'condition'. I am having the compression checked by some of the machinists in the shop that I work at. And yes, you are right, I don't require the zinc. I was just going down the list of parts.
I have already realized the different throttle and shifting cables that I will require. I currently have a pedestal wheel steering and will be using the control levers that are existing but replacing the cables. I will be using the existing engine kill cable. I do have the control panel which will be replacing the existing one.
I have already dealt with the shaft alignment issue. I have purchased new engine mounts and have measured carefully to insure that my alignment will be the same. I will have to either modify the existing coupling (machine shop offered to help) or I will purchase a new one.
Regarding the prop. I have determined since I wrote my first post that the engine does have the proper shaft rotation for the existing prop. I have been in contact with the people at Torrence Marine and they have indicated that the prop should be fine, but I will take your advice and speak with an actual prop expert.
I did do some research prior to purchasing this used engine and I realize that there will be some obstacles in this repower, but I believe it will far out weight the potential of not having an engine that works or one that I can not obtain parts for (as with the Renault).
I welcome any other comments and suggestions. I am the first to admit that I have a lot more to learn about this repower then I currently know, so please keep the questions and suggestions coming. Thanks.

 

[s sauer]

Engine mounts: you should make sure you get the proper engine mounts from Yanmar as the front and read mounts are different model numbers. This is also a good time to replace the reinforced rubber/nylon shaft log hose and hose clamps; re-install new teflon impregnated packing in the packing gland, and check the cutlas bearing in the strut. You need a basic alignment when you install the engine mounts so the shaft runs straight thru the shaft log without touching the sides and on to the cutlass bearing in the strut without binding. After the boat is in the water check and re-adjust the engine mount alignment with a feeler gauge at the propeller shaft ans transmission flanges. I purchased an engine manual: "SELOC Chilton Marine Yanmar Inboards 1975-98" which goes thru this and more in extensive detail. Don't leave home without it!

 

[Paul F]

Manuals

Here is a site that has manuals to download. It sounds like you know what you are doing. Best of to you.
http://www.motoren.ath.cx/menus/yanmar.html

 

[morgantheship]

The engine mounts have been recommended by Mack Boring who is the distributor to Yanmar in the US. The mounts that they have recommended are the same both front and rear.

That is a great idea of redoing the shaft hose and hose clamps. I was planning on redoing the stuffing box once it got a bit warmer. Tough to work down at the boat with the type of temperatures we currently have. That is why I am concentrating on the engine as I am able to work on it at my place of employment.
I have all of the manuals for the engine which describe the alignment process. I also down loaded an article from the forum on redoing the stuffing box and alignment.

Thanks for all your input. I figure that once this project is complete I might even understand a bit more about my own engine and how to maintain it. To be very honest, this is a real learning process for me and I am having fun and enjoying it. The challenge of re-installing and all the connections and testing it prior to being put in the water will I am sure offer some additional opportunities for expanding my education.

 

[Guest]

Repower

You are welcome. Teleflex makes control cables for most all marine applications. I've used them before with very good results. Most quality marine chandleries carry Teleflex brand cables.

Please let us know the outcome of your re-power project. The good, the bad, the ugly, so to speak. Both our H28 (2GM20F) and P42 (4JH2-TE) came standard with Yanmar engines. Strong, reliable and rock solid. You should be very happy with its performance.

Terry