New Electric Wiring

PaulK · Mar 6, 2020

What are the power ports for? They’re going to need a lot of juice if you’re lighting cigarettes with them. If there are already two batteries it makes sense to keep them both until you determine if just one is sufficient. A solar panel is a great way to keep them both topped up, especially without an alternator.

Tom J · Mar 6, 2020

I think you will appreciate having two batteries. I had a 23' O'Day with no charging system, so I had installed a second battery. When one battery got a low charge, I switched to the second battery and brought the first one home to charge. With a solar panel, though, you might not have this issue.
Definitely install the 12v receptacles, but be sure to fuse them separately. When I bought my 31' Catalina, it didn't have any 12v receptacles, so I installed three, like you.
On the circuit breaker panel, you should have the VHF radio on it's own CB. You'll need separate switches for the anchor and steaming lights if you have them both on the same CB.
I like to rip out a rat's nest like you have and make it into something neat and safe and tailored to my needs.
Good luck and have fun!

rgranger · Mar 7, 2020

I put a solar panel on every boat (7) that I have purchased. And went with two deep cycle batteries.

capta · Mar 7, 2020

Rather than only 3 cig lighter sockets, you might want a few directly wired USB ports throughout the boat and not need to plug them into the cig lighter sockets.
Some cig lighter sockets are 15 amps, so three would require a 45 amp breaker, a bit high if using only one, unless you also fuse them individually. Maybe go with a bigger panel in case you want to add a circuit or two later?

dlochner · Mar 7, 2020

ScourgeOfTheHudson said:
Hello fellow hivemind!

With it warming up finally on the Hudson, I'm getting ready to have at the new in fall 26D Mac that followed me home.
Currently there are two batteries installed, but the wiring is honestly scary and one heck of a rats best. So I'm going to attempt to rewire and wanted to run my ideas out there and see what y'all think.

new panel, 5 switch
circuits will be

Nav Lights (bow & stern)
Mast (anchor/steaming)
Systems (Signet P80, VHF & FM radio)
Power Ports (3 12v cigarette outlets, fore/mid/aft)
Cabin Lights: Led tape lights, 3 zones {v berth, midships and stern berth}) Head & Galley fixtures)

Also was thinking of adding a solar panel for recharging.
Most sailing will be daytrips, with an occasional overnight onboard. Not sure if I need the second battery or not. OB is a 9hp Mariner pullstart from the late 80s.

opinions? and thanks in advance

In some form or fashion this is a frequently asked question.

I'd encourage you think about your electrical system as a system and not as individual components. If approached with a systems perspective you'll end up with an efficient system that meets your needs, fits your boat and sailing style, and stays sort of in budget.

There are 3 key components to the system: Electrical demand or consumption, power storage (battery), and power generation (solar, charger, alternator, etc.). A well designed system will be balanced, i.e., you'll have enough power to meet demands, sufficient usable storage of that power, and a way to generate power to recharged the depleted storage. There are lots of ways to accomplish this some will be more suitable for your boat and sailing, some more suitable for your budget.

The starting point is to accurately and realistically assess your power needs. Then how much stored power do you need to meet those demands and how to replenish that power. Once you have the answers to these questions, it is time to evaluate whether your solution is viable for your boat. What works for your 26' Mac will be inadequate for my 36' coastal cruising Sabre, and what's adequate for my boat will be inadequate for a boat on a trans Atlantic crossing. Finally, can you afford the system you designed and will it actually fit on the boat?

If the system you first design won't work for your boat, the problem will probably lie in the demand part of the system. Re-evaluate your needs and then work your way back through the storage and charging parts. If you're lucky, you'll get it right the first time. Otherwise, expect to make several attempts before finding a solution that works.

Good Luck, keep us posted.

jssailem · Mar 8, 2020

Great info stated by @dlochner. You will be happier when installed the system that you have fully vetted. Separate the “I Wants” from the ”I Needs”.

Then look at the system as “I will Use”.

As an example: You indicate the anchor and the steaming light will be on the same circuit. Since we often use the circuit switches as our “On-Off” switch for the loads, will you be using the Anchor and the Steaming light “ON” at the same time?

dlochner · Mar 8, 2020

ScourgeOfTheHudson said:
I had been thinking of using the panel be the main on/off for that circuit, then having another toggle wired after it to determine which of the two was powered.
unfortunately electric is not a strong suit, so I'm very grateful for the help and advice so far

It will be simpler to have separate switches on the panel for the anchor light and the steaming light. Neither of the lights should be on at the same time, so they should be separate.

Terry Cox · Mar 8, 2020

ScourgeOfTheHudson said:
Power Ports (3 12v cigarette outlets, fore/mid/aft)

No smoker here since 1963. Have several 12v sockets on the boat. They come in very handy for a variety of uses. Heating blanket, electronics chargers (cell phone, toothbrushes), electric drills, handheld GPS, VHF radio, etc. Handy too for those small 12v inverters that deliver 120v AC. I really like the ones that have one plug in and two USB ports. Look for one that does not have a built-in annoying fan.

The fam got me this one, but it has two USB ports. Works like a charm and quiet. https://www.amazon.com/STANLEY-PCA1...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583795261604130&psc=1

Ron20324 · Mar 8, 2020

dlochner said:
It will be simpler to have separate switches on the panel for the anchor light and the steaming light. Neither of the lights should be on at the same time, so they should be separate.

i USED ONE BREAKER ON THE PANEL AND RAN ONE WIRE TO THE MAST AT THE INSIDE OF THE DECK. THERE, PLACE A SWITCH FOR THE 3 MAST LIGHTS. THIS FREED UP A BREAKER ON THE PANEL.

Ken Cross · Mar 9, 2020

Also for your boat, consider one nearby 12-volt outlet for a pool toy inflator to pressurize your ballast tank. This is so you can empty the ballast before putting the boat on the trailer. They work great and minimize the time you tie up the ramp dumping the ballast. This also makes loading on the trailer easier. To use it you put the inflator in the vent hole and turn it on. Then open the fill/drain valve. and wait until bubbles come up beside the boat. Then close the fill/drain valve before switching the pool toy inflator off. Once on the ramp, you would drain any remaining ballast water.

Ken

Tom J · Mar 10, 2020

Not bad. A very workable system. Buy I don't see any fuse or circuit breaker in your dedicated bilge pump circuit. You need one or the other in front of the float switches.

dlochner · Mar 10, 2020

Nice first effort, there are few things to consider. In no particular order.

The bilge pump should be wired directly (appropriately fused) to a power source and always on. This can be accomplish by connecting to the Common post on the 1-2-Both switch, unless the switch has an off position. Also, for a 26 foot boat used in protected waters, 3 bilge pumps are over kill. One would suffice and two would provide a back up if one should fail.

If there is only one device, outlet, etc on a circuit, then it is not necessary to go to a power strip first, the fewer connection points the fewer potential problem areas.

As shown, the 1-2-both switch is not wired correctly. Battery 1 goes to post 1, Battery 2 goes to Post 2 and the cable to the Panel goes on the C or common post.

The diagram does not show a charging circuit. The alternators on outboards are not all that powerful and will likely provide minimal charging capacity.

As shown, when ever the Stereo is turned on, the compass light and instruments will be on. That's an unnecessary drain on the battery. The stereo may need a connection to an always on circuit so the channel memory works.

dlochner · Mar 10, 2020

ScourgeOfTheHudson said:
charging was going to be accomplished via a solar panel on deck during the week, I know not optimal, but wasn't sure about investing in shore power yet.
I had thought about a toggle for the compass light. the instruments are just the Signet P80 tridata that came with the boat.

How much power will you consume in a weekend? And how big a panel will you use?

If you are at a dock with shore power availble, the cost of installing a simple shore power system and charger will not be that much more than the solar panel and controller.

New Electric Wiring

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SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

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