New Code 0 needs an genoa block attachment

[Rafael8008]

I have been noodling the notion of adding a Code 0 or A 60 as a light air reaching sail for a few years.
Question to the Hunter Sailors group.
There doesn't seem to be an obvious place to mount a little genoa track outside of the shrouds. Is there someone on the forum that has solved this issue? I am thinking about 4 to 6 feet aft of the shrouds. A constraint, is that the toe rail must remain smooth, because any little plate, mount or cutout will interfere with dock lines or sheets. That would be really, really undesirable. I have considered a point load anchor, like pickup truck owners use to hold heavy motorcycles upright in their truck bed. Problem with that, is that it would become a nasty trip hazard on the non-slip deck. Ouch. There are two-piece versions with a 2 inch plate and one-hand spring loaded extrusion and ring. These should be strong enough: 1600 lbs. Counter-sinking it to be smooth with the walkway, introduces a new water collection trap, so am not comfortable with that configuration either.
Does anyone know if there is strong backing below the walkway? Are there areas to avoid?
Any forum members with knowledge of Hunter drawings around 2000 that shows the details where the topsides and hull glass join?

Boat is '98 376

 

[jssailem]

Your thinking about rigging the control sheets for your sail on Genoa tracks conflicts with my understanding of the purpose and power that comes to a boat with a Code 0 as a light air reaching sail. The sail serves to move the boat when the breeze is in the range of 110º to 170º. The sail size is much greater than a genoa by design. It gains the power to move the boat by billowing out in front of the boat rather than like a jib as a wing that give the boat lift.

In order to affect positive trim you need to have the control sheets attached to the stern of the boat not at the beam. To affect sheet control most design the sheet to run outside of all rigging to a block at or near the stern cleat. The line is run through a block and back up along the side to the winch if needed. On my boat I attach the blocks to my stern cleats using soft shackles.

Attached is a primer on the Code 0, by Quantum sails.

Top Eight Misconceptions About Code Zero Sails

What exactly is a code zero? Code zeros are only used on racing boats, right? Aren't they pretty expensive and difficult to get up and down? If yo...

www.quantumsails.com

On my boat I selected an asymmetrical. I had the sail cut and made to be used in a wind range from 95º to 160º. In early testing I was able to get the sail to draw and move the boat in 8knots of breeze at 70º without collapsing. Move the wind angle to far forward and the sail shape will collapse.

When sailing with a large sail you sometimes need to modify the sheet angle from its basic design. I accomplish this with the use of tweekers. Soft shackles with a low friction ring can alter the angle of the sheet changing the sail shape and trim. This provides flexibility in trimming the sail keeping hardware to a minimum and the decks clean.

 

[SoSound]

I have no Hunter specific insights. But, here is how Beneteau installed folding padeyes for the sheets for the asymmetrical spinnaker. We sold off the spinnaker and use a furling code 0 instead. This is how I rig it on our boat. I also like @jssailem 's idea of using soft shackles, but if you prefer something more permanent, I like our set up. I can take the sail down and stow it out of the sun and weather, but still leave the sheets in place for when I need them.

The red line is the sheet for my code 0, the black line is my genoa furling line.