New 410 Concerns

Status
Not open for further replies.
J

Jerry Raznov

I took delivery of my new 410 Aug 1999. For 12 months I worked with my dealer and Hunter to resolve several lingering concerns most of which are now resolved. Following are some items that no one seems to have an answer to: 1) Grunert requires that the sea water cooling lines of the refrigerator compressor and 2 ea. AC compressors must be purged via a closed loop flow of 5% Muriatic acid solution for 30 min. every 6 months. I successfully completed this on the Refrigerator and Salon AC. How can the sea water input and output lines of the aft cabin AC be accessed? This raises a second concern how can the aft cabin AC compressor be removed if it requires service? It is sealed in a NO ACCESS compartment! 2) Page 57D of the Hunter Owners manual states that the T's connecting the aft head shower to the aft head sink can be accessed through the Bilge Board outside the head. This is not the case. I believe these T's are located below the after cabin port seat. There is no way to get access since this seat does NOT come apart. Any suggestions? 3) Over the past 12 months the aft fresh water tank sensor failed, the forward holding tank sensor failed, the aft holding tank sensor failed. Are other 410 owners having the same problems? What is the cause? What is the solution? 4) Both House batteries, supplied by dealer are Interstate 4DXHD. Interstate and Heart Inverter state that deep cycle SRM4D batteries must be used. No resolution. How are your 410’s configured?
 
B

Bill Ihlenfeldt

I have a 1998 Hunter 410 with Grunert refrig and Marine Air air conditioning. I have run for two seasons without running acid through the system and still no problems. I am not on saltwater, and that may make a difference. I have read both manuals-refrig and air conditioning-and find no reference to the muratic acid process you describe. The aft compressor on my boat is accessible through the aft starboard lazarette. The intake line originates under the galley floor and the discharge line runs to a seacock in the aft starboard lazarette. Mine is not in a sealed compartment, and I would be interested in a description of yours. The h20 lines connecting the aft shower to the aft sink can be accessed through a panel on the wall along side of the lead (shower side) it is removed by removing the towel bar behind the head. I have had tank sensors "stick" for a moment but a slight tap on the sensing unit or top of the tank gets it working again. I have two 8D house batteries and have had no problems over two seasons.
 
B

Bryce Grefe

H410

Have had my 410 for two seasons and have had no problems with the Grunert units. My local dealer which did the upgrades made no mention of any specialized servicing for the units. My aft cabin A/C is tough to get to also since its in a insulated housing inside the starboard lazzarrette, this is compounded by a genset and associated stuff in the same area. I found I could remove the center section of the bulkhead in the aft cabin by removing the 6 or 8 screws (accessable from the aft cabin). Once removed its easy to get at, and being 6'2" far easier for me this way than thru the lazarrette. Thru hulls etc. a located as in the previous post. My 2 Interstate 4D house batteries have presented no problem with the heart invertor. However with all the add ons I have, I'm upgrading to 8D's this winter. Really don't expect a problem except for longer charging time. Had some problems with the tank sensors, particularly the forward holding tank with them getting stuck, but also a rap on the tank or sensor usually resolves the problem. Found it helps to flush the holding tank after emptying. Keeps the float, or whatever is used clean and free from fouling. Bryce S/V Spellbinder H410
 
P

Pete Burger

Muriatic acid in AC Lines

Jerry, on my 430, I've had continuing problems with barnacles blocking the sea water lines for my refrigeration and AC units (would not happen with boats in frest water). Not able to replace the lines, I came up with the muriatic acid treatment to eat up the critters. But I don't have a closed loop. For the refrigerator, I disconnect the hose from the salt water pump and CAREFULLY alternately add muriatic acid with a frest water flush. Works fine and keeps the unit functioning for several months.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.