I never have done a bottom job before and have a few questions. 1. Under $200 a gallon, which bottom paint is the best? Pettit Trinidad SR??, Interlux Micron Extra, any others? 2. Will I need one or two gallons for my Hunter 25.5' boat? 3. Do I have to sand the old paint before applying the new? thanks... Ted St. Augustine, Fl
- Status
Depends
Ted I'd ask around in your local area. Some paints do better with certain types of fouling than others. Some paints cannot be applied over old coatings, either. Here in MA, I've used Petit Trinidad SR for two seasons with good results. Two gallons is more than enough for a Catalina 320. Check with Practical Sailor magazine (www.practical-sailor.com) -- they periodically evaluate these products. Also, the West Marine Advisor has a nice discussion about various paints. Note also that if you haul the boat for dry-land storage over Winter or extended yard work (over 60 days), the bottom generally must be repainted. Read the literature that goes with the paint you use. --Ron
Ted I'd ask around in your local area. Some paints do better with certain types of fouling than others. Some paints cannot be applied over old coatings, either. Here in MA, I've used Petit Trinidad SR for two seasons with good results. Two gallons is more than enough for a Catalina 320. Check with Practical Sailor magazine (www.practical-sailor.com) -- they periodically evaluate these products. Also, the West Marine Advisor has a nice discussion about various paints. Note also that if you haul the boat for dry-land storage over Winter or extended yard work (over 60 days), the bottom generally must be repainted. Read the literature that goes with the paint you use. --Ron
Bottom Job...
Trinidad SR has worked well for me. Two years now and still no growth, but I am in cold salt water. Your results may vary. You will use less than a gallon of paint per coat. Pressure wash the bottom when she comes out, spot sand the bad places and rough up the rest and apply one coat of paint. That’s unless the bottom is a real mess with a whole bunch of paint in poor condition. Put her back in the water in a reasonable time, less than a week. That ought to do it.
Trinidad SR has worked well for me. Two years now and still no growth, but I am in cold salt water. Your results may vary. You will use less than a gallon of paint per coat. Pressure wash the bottom when she comes out, spot sand the bad places and rough up the rest and apply one coat of paint. That’s unless the bottom is a real mess with a whole bunch of paint in poor condition. Put her back in the water in a reasonable time, less than a week. That ought to do it.
Ask Your Slip Neighbors
I've used the West Marine paint and Pettit both have worked well for me. West has the highest copper content if that means anything I am not sure it does. On my 23.5 I use a gallon and just a smidge more. I use the extra to hit the spots that need to be redone from putting it on the trailer if a storm comes. I would bet you could do it with a gallon and a quart maybe a second quart. Doubt you'd need two gallons.
I've used the West Marine paint and Pettit both have worked well for me. West has the highest copper content if that means anything I am not sure it does. On my 23.5 I use a gallon and just a smidge more. I use the extra to hit the spots that need to be redone from putting it on the trailer if a storm comes. I would bet you could do it with a gallon and a quart maybe a second quart. Doubt you'd need two gallons.
Check Practical Sailor
I use the Interlux Micron it is an ablative type and works great up north where I am. I like the ablative paints because they don't build up and chip or peel. Practical sailor has a test of bottom paints. There is a northern test and a southern test area. One gallon will do. I usually use a scrunge pad and give the bottom a light once over wet.
I use the Interlux Micron it is an ablative type and works great up north where I am. I like the ablative paints because they don't build up and chip or peel. Practical sailor has a test of bottom paints. There is a northern test and a southern test area. One gallon will do. I usually use a scrunge pad and give the bottom a light once over wet.
Woolsey HydroCoat
I use Woolsey Hydrocoat for my 26 foot H260 and get two coats from one gallon. It is ablative, multi season, water based and hard enough to stand up to trailering. I get two years between bottom jobs, but my boat is dry half the year and the water is much cooler, here. As others posted, it is best to check with locals to see what works best for a given area. Also if there is paint already on, you need to find out what kind and check compatibility. Boat US and West marine have good write ups in their catalogs and the paint companies have info on their web sites. A Google search for Marine bottom paint will probably give you more info than you want to look at! Fair winds, Tom
I use Woolsey Hydrocoat for my 26 foot H260 and get two coats from one gallon. It is ablative, multi season, water based and hard enough to stand up to trailering. I get two years between bottom jobs, but my boat is dry half the year and the water is much cooler, here. As others posted, it is best to check with locals to see what works best for a given area. Also if there is paint already on, you need to find out what kind and check compatibility. Boat US and West marine have good write ups in their catalogs and the paint companies have info on their web sites. A Google search for Marine bottom paint will probably give you more info than you want to look at! Fair winds, Tom
Micron Extra with biolux
I gallon will be plenty, Interlux has a guide for what paints you can apply it over.
I gallon will be plenty, Interlux has a guide for what paints you can apply it over.
Interlux Ultra
Just hauled the boat after 18 months on Interlux Ultra...no blisters, paint still in good shape, orders to apply a "booster" coat if needed ignored since not needed. No barnacles worth talking about. It's more than doing the job.
Just hauled the boat after 18 months on Interlux Ultra...no blisters, paint still in good shape, orders to apply a "booster" coat if needed ignored since not needed. No barnacles worth talking about. It's more than doing the job.
For speed, still believe in the tried and true
Ablatives are great for sure. No sanding, No mess, but, I still believe in VC17! No sanding is required, it dries fast (maybe too fast), and, it only takes me an afternoon to apply. Used to use ACT Copolymer on my old 27, and, that was fine, however, the finish is very course and flat, and friends have told me that it can add to drag in the water....to each his own I guess...
Ablatives are great for sure. No sanding, No mess, but, I still believe in VC17! No sanding is required, it dries fast (maybe too fast), and, it only takes me an afternoon to apply. Used to use ACT Copolymer on my old 27, and, that was fine, however, the finish is very course and flat, and friends have told me that it can add to drag in the water....to each his own I guess...
More on ottom paint
If you keep your boat in the water in Florida, you need something with real grunt, especially in salt water. Any paint with a high copper content and good slime/algae resistance should work. Try the boatyard at Camachee Island Marina (it's on the left just before you go over the A1A bridge to Vilano Beach) and ask them what they found to work best for them. Everybody likes ablative paints because they're supposed to dissolve away and expose fresh biocide all the time. This is a huge advantage when it's time to repaint as the old paint is already gone (no sanding!). However, most ablatives don't work well if the boat sits at the dock all the time. Boat motion through the water greatly enhances the dissolving action, so if your boat sits a lot, the bottom will probably have to be scrubbed a couple of times a year anyway (unless you have the expensive new-fangled ablatives with algaecide). Once you select a bottom paint, try to find an equivalent generic. Look closely at copper, algaecide and other additives and match them to the name brands by content. Fall is a good time to buy bottom paint in Florida because the rest of the country won't be painting until spring. If you decide on ablative paint, use two contrasting colors. The first coat (or two) should be one color and the next two (or three) coats should be the other color. When the bottom color starts to show...it's time to repaint. Yes, you need at least three coats, otherwise you will be hauling and painting every year and the haulout alone could run you over $100. Ask the yard to bring the bottom paint a couple of inches above the waterline. It looks like a boot topping (without the extra expense) and you won't have to mask the hull the next time you repaint (most of the paint above the waterline should still be there). Me? I used to keep my boat in the water and now I dry-sail it, so I use VC17. Peter H23 "Raven"
If you keep your boat in the water in Florida, you need something with real grunt, especially in salt water. Any paint with a high copper content and good slime/algae resistance should work. Try the boatyard at Camachee Island Marina (it's on the left just before you go over the A1A bridge to Vilano Beach) and ask them what they found to work best for them. Everybody likes ablative paints because they're supposed to dissolve away and expose fresh biocide all the time. This is a huge advantage when it's time to repaint as the old paint is already gone (no sanding!). However, most ablatives don't work well if the boat sits at the dock all the time. Boat motion through the water greatly enhances the dissolving action, so if your boat sits a lot, the bottom will probably have to be scrubbed a couple of times a year anyway (unless you have the expensive new-fangled ablatives with algaecide). Once you select a bottom paint, try to find an equivalent generic. Look closely at copper, algaecide and other additives and match them to the name brands by content. Fall is a good time to buy bottom paint in Florida because the rest of the country won't be painting until spring. If you decide on ablative paint, use two contrasting colors. The first coat (or two) should be one color and the next two (or three) coats should be the other color. When the bottom color starts to show...it's time to repaint. Yes, you need at least three coats, otherwise you will be hauling and painting every year and the haulout alone could run you over $100. Ask the yard to bring the bottom paint a couple of inches above the waterline. It looks like a boot topping (without the extra expense) and you won't have to mask the hull the next time you repaint (most of the paint above the waterline should still be there). Me? I used to keep my boat in the water and now I dry-sail it, so I use VC17. Peter H23 "Raven"
More on bottom paint
If you keep your boat in the water in Florida, you need something with real grunt, especially in salt water. Any paint with a high copper content and good slime/algae resistance should work. Try the boatyard at Camachee Island Marina (it's on the left just before you go over the A1A bridge to Vilano Beach) and ask them what they found to work best for them. Everybody likes ablative paints because they're supposed to dissolve away and expose fresh biocide all the time. This is a huge advantage when it's time to repaint as the old paint is already gone (no sanding!). However, most ablatives don't work well if the boat sits at the dock all the time. Boat motion through the water greatly enhances the dissolving action, so if your boat sits a lot, the bottom will probably have to be scrubbed a couple of times a year anyway (unless you have the expensive new-fangled ablatives with algaecide). Once you select a bottom paint, try to find an equivalent generic. Look closely at copper, algaecide and other additives and match them to the name brands by content. Fall is a good time to buy bottom paint in Florida because the rest of the country won't be painting until spring. If you decide on ablative paint, use two contrasting colors. The first coat (or two) should be one color and the next two (or three) coats should be the other color. When the bottom color starts to show...it's time to repaint. Yes, you need at least three coats, otherwise you will be hauling and painting every year and the haulout alone could run you over $100. Ask the yard to bring the bottom paint a couple of inches above the waterline. It looks like a boot topping (without the extra expense) and you won't have to mask the hull the next time you repaint (most of the paint above the waterline should still be there). Me? I used to keep my boat in the water and now I dry-sail it, so I use VC17. Peter H23 "Raven"
If you keep your boat in the water in Florida, you need something with real grunt, especially in salt water. Any paint with a high copper content and good slime/algae resistance should work. Try the boatyard at Camachee Island Marina (it's on the left just before you go over the A1A bridge to Vilano Beach) and ask them what they found to work best for them. Everybody likes ablative paints because they're supposed to dissolve away and expose fresh biocide all the time. This is a huge advantage when it's time to repaint as the old paint is already gone (no sanding!). However, most ablatives don't work well if the boat sits at the dock all the time. Boat motion through the water greatly enhances the dissolving action, so if your boat sits a lot, the bottom will probably have to be scrubbed a couple of times a year anyway (unless you have the expensive new-fangled ablatives with algaecide). Once you select a bottom paint, try to find an equivalent generic. Look closely at copper, algaecide and other additives and match them to the name brands by content. Fall is a good time to buy bottom paint in Florida because the rest of the country won't be painting until spring. If you decide on ablative paint, use two contrasting colors. The first coat (or two) should be one color and the next two (or three) coats should be the other color. When the bottom color starts to show...it's time to repaint. Yes, you need at least three coats, otherwise you will be hauling and painting every year and the haulout alone could run you over $100. Ask the yard to bring the bottom paint a couple of inches above the waterline. It looks like a boot topping (without the extra expense) and you won't have to mask the hull the next time you repaint (most of the paint above the waterline should still be there). Me? I used to keep my boat in the water and now I dry-sail it, so I use VC17. Peter H23 "Raven"
one gal+a quart.
just finished redoing my newly acquired 1985 25' cat. 4 coats of interlux 2000E primer and 2 coats of petit trinidad. It took all of 1 gal and 1 quart of the petit. They were thick coats. however i did use about 3 quarts of 'Whites Marine Tex' at about $50 a quart. is there a cheaper equivilent i wonder?
just finished redoing my newly acquired 1985 25' cat. 4 coats of interlux 2000E primer and 2 coats of petit trinidad. It took all of 1 gal and 1 quart of the petit. They were thick coats. however i did use about 3 quarts of 'Whites Marine Tex' at about $50 a quart. is there a cheaper equivilent i wonder?
Practical Sailor Bottom Paint Paint Review
Available for a limited time is a link to a Practical Sailor bottom paint review. Like some previous posters have said asking what is the best paint is like asking what is the best car. It depends on a lot of factors. Is the best car a Jeep? F-150? Honda Civic? If you come back to read the answers to your post it would help if you would tell us more.
Available for a limited time is a link to a Practical Sailor bottom paint review. Like some previous posters have said asking what is the best paint is like asking what is the best car. It depends on a lot of factors. Is the best car a Jeep? F-150? Honda Civic? If you come back to read the answers to your post it would help if you would tell us more.
bottom paint
Hi. Ted; I am from the great white north in British Columbia. I was at odds to what bottom paint to use. I decided that the first thing I would do is Epoxy the bottom with VC epoxy tar.(quite expensive up hear)I then finished off with interlux VC offshore.This antifouling is none ablative and leaves a smooth bottom if you burnish the the offshore with brass wool.One thing to remember is this antifouling is not compatible with other antifouling products. You must remember to mix it very well before applying. Makes for a fast bottom after a brass wool burnish. My opinion is you should sand the bottom very well(I sand blasted mine and then sanded with 80grit paper).Four quarts will easily do one coat/two coats is what I used. Just my thoughts Ron Sloan
Hi. Ted; I am from the great white north in British Columbia. I was at odds to what bottom paint to use. I decided that the first thing I would do is Epoxy the bottom with VC epoxy tar.(quite expensive up hear)I then finished off with interlux VC offshore.This antifouling is none ablative and leaves a smooth bottom if you burnish the the offshore with brass wool.One thing to remember is this antifouling is not compatible with other antifouling products. You must remember to mix it very well before applying. Makes for a fast bottom after a brass wool burnish. My opinion is you should sand the bottom very well(I sand blasted mine and then sanded with 80grit paper).Four quarts will easily do one coat/two coats is what I used. Just my thoughts Ron Sloan
- Status