I have chafing on fresh water hoses traveling from yanmar 2G20(F)(C) to the hot water tank. The chafing was mostly caused by roughly cut fiberglass hole. My question is where the best place is for parts like that and procedure in replacing hoses. My first thought because the hose does travel under the the fiberglass floor, was to use a nipple coupling with tape and pull the old out. If that doesn't work I'm wondering if cutting a hole in the floor will weaken it. Another question I read that antifreeze was recommended for freezing temperatures but through the warm month I should use distilled water. I always thought that antifreeze had additives to prevent corrosion, please if anybody knows any of these questions your advice is welcomed thank you.
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antifreeze
Antifreeze is not just for freeze protection and distilled water is not a cure for corrosion. Antifreeze will help to minimize internal corrosion if mixed properly and while you're doing it, you might want to consider using the so-called extended life stuff. I'm not too sure how "extended" is will be but these types have little or no silicates and will be much less prone to clogging. Replacing the hoses should be simple IF you can remove the sole plates but I'm not familiar with the H30 idiosyncrasies
Antifreeze is not just for freeze protection and distilled water is not a cure for corrosion. Antifreeze will help to minimize internal corrosion if mixed properly and while you're doing it, you might want to consider using the so-called extended life stuff. I'm not too sure how "extended" is will be but these types have little or no silicates and will be much less prone to clogging. Replacing the hoses should be simple IF you can remove the sole plates but I'm not familiar with the H30 idiosyncrasies
Hose replacement
I had some hoses replaced on my last boat (O'Day 322) and I helped the tech because it can be a two person job. We used a barbed coupling to connect the old hose to the new one and while one person gently pulled on the old hose the other pushed on the new hose. Pushing a bit more forcefully then pulling ensures that the coupling will not come apart if it hangs up somewhere. Tape would be extra insurance.
I had some hoses replaced on my last boat (O'Day 322) and I helped the tech because it can be a two person job. We used a barbed coupling to connect the old hose to the new one and while one person gently pulled on the old hose the other pushed on the new hose. Pushing a bit more forcefully then pulling ensures that the coupling will not come apart if it hangs up somewhere. Tape would be extra insurance.
Did that on my H34 a couple of years ago
I used a small piece of copper pipe to join old with new and taped the joint. Went at it easy and had no problem. I used Automotive heater hose, had no problem getting the right size. I also had the chafing problem and I cut a piece from the old hose, slit the side and put it over the new one at the place where it passes through the fibeglass liner where it had chafed before. Taped it in place
I used a small piece of copper pipe to join old with new and taped the joint. Went at it easy and had no problem. I used Automotive heater hose, had no problem getting the right size. I also had the chafing problem and I cut a piece from the old hose, slit the side and put it over the new one at the place where it passes through the fibeglass liner where it had chafed before. Taped it in place
Antifreeze also prevents boiling over.
That is why you also need antifreeze in your car in the summer. The local Yanmar dealer recommends using a low silicate ethylene glycol, all year around. Try Schucks.
That is why you also need antifreeze in your car in the summer. The local Yanmar dealer recommends using a low silicate ethylene glycol, all year around. Try Schucks.
Water Tank or Heater?
I can't tell which model 30' is yours, you said water tank, my '82 had a 120V heater w/o engine heat exchange and was long dead when I bought the boat last September. I replaced it over the winter with a new unit from West Marine with the exchanger feature. My heater sits on the deck right behind the engine. It is accessible from both sides by getting down in the starboard locker and an access door fron the quarter berth on the port side. The engine hoses go through the firewall behind the engine and did not require FG Surgery. Are we talking about the same animal? It sounds like your boat might be set up for salt water with a fresh water heat exchanger for engine cooling, hence the concern for antifreeze in your engine cooling water. Not much help but interested in learning about all I can.
I can't tell which model 30' is yours, you said water tank, my '82 had a 120V heater w/o engine heat exchange and was long dead when I bought the boat last September. I replaced it over the winter with a new unit from West Marine with the exchanger feature. My heater sits on the deck right behind the engine. It is accessible from both sides by getting down in the starboard locker and an access door fron the quarter berth on the port side. The engine hoses go through the firewall behind the engine and did not require FG Surgery. Are we talking about the same animal? It sounds like your boat might be set up for salt water with a fresh water heat exchanger for engine cooling, hence the concern for antifreeze in your engine cooling water. Not much help but interested in learning about all I can.
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