Need Replacement Prop shaft

[Peter Reynolds]

Hi,
While working on my stuffing box of my Seidelmann S299 and giving the outer prass double nuts a little twist, the threads fell apart. Now the brbass prop sits on the keyway with nothing to hold in place. Shaft diameter is 1".

Any suggestions to get another prop shaft and also how to get the thing out. The keyed flange that couples to the transmission also seems to be stuck.

I guess this is the long way to replace stuffing box packing.

 

[Roger Long]

Are you up off the Saint John River in New Brunswick? If you can't find a propeller shaft supplier up there, I can point you to a good one here in Maine.

To get the coupling off, undo the bolts that hold it to the transmision coupling and back it out. Remove any set screws or through bolts in the coupling. Get PB blaster or Silkroil into the holes and around he shaft. Be VERY careful not to get any on the transmission coupling. You can ruin the oil seal on the transmission.

While the penetrating oil works, go buy longer bolts. Put a large nut or similar object against the end of the shaft and bolt it back together again with the nut in place. Tighten up the bolts sequentially. You may also have to heat the coupling and tap on it with a hammer. Keep tightening and it will eventually come off.

Since the shaft is shot, you can also just cut it up into short pieces and deal with the coupling later.

Post some pictures and I'm sure you'll get more advice.

 

[Maine Sail]

If the shaft

If the shaft is already ruined use a 4" angle grinder and cut it just aft of the coupling and send both pieces to a prop shop for duplication. Hamilton Marine does prop shafting and has very reasonable rates..

 

[Hermit Scott]

Cut that thing with the angle grinder. They can be incredibly difficult to remove, and you can damage your transmission if done incorrectly. I have a coupler in my shop that still has the shaft in it even after I tried to press it out. You need a new coupler also. The old one is not reusable. They aren't that much less than $100.
One thing I would definitely insist on when buying the new shaft is aquamet 19 or better yet aquamet 22. They guy that makes shafts will probably tell you that aquamet 17 will do fine and that's 99% of what they sell. He says that because they only make money when you come back to buy another shaft.
When you get your new coupler and new shaft use tefgel between tham when installing them. You will have a coupler that you can reuse next time if you do that.
Maine Sail has all the details about this on his site.

 

[RFerraro1]

Cut it out

If the coupling at the transmission end is stuck solid you might have a set screw in there. From experience I can say that getting the shaft out of that coupling can be a real struggle. It took LOTS of heat and hammering even after drilling out a rusted set screw. Since you want to replace the shaft anyway I agree with the fast and simple solution of cutting it out.

By the way I got into the shaft struggle the same way you did.. stuffing box repair. We saved our shaft but it took all winter to do it (and we used a gear puller fitted onto the end of the shaft by the coupling to free it at the engine end).

 

[Peter Reynolds]

Shaft seems to be brass?

I was a little suprised to see that the shaft is what appears to be brass? Just getting ready to cut it out (which probably will not be very difficult since the shaft is brass).

 

[Stu Jackson]

It's NOT brass

it's bronze. The replacement is SS.