Need parts for Hood Furler

tjar

tjar

.
Aug 8, 2011
166
Hunter Legend 35.5 Tacoma, WA
I tried to open the drum on my Hood furler to change the line, but the stainless steel cover is seized to the aluminum post. I soaked it in PB Blaster for two weeks, applied heat, tried pounding and twisting with wrenches, but nothing was going to get them apart. Finally, I tried to pry the cover down be inserting a screwdriver between the shroud and the spool. The bottom of the spool snapped off and now I need to find a source for parts.
I'm not sure of the model number, but it is the same as the photo from another member's post. Does anybody know what the model number is for this furler and if spare or used parts are available?
Drum.JPG
 
A

artboas

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Jun 1, 2009
1,813
Hunter 49 toronto
Contact Greg at evolution Sails in Toronto. Really great guy, and he'll be able to steer you in the right direction
 
P

PGIJon

.
Mar 3, 2012
856
Hunter 34 Punta Gorda
B

barnstormer

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Apr 29, 2012
67
Catalina 30 TRBS Lake City Marina
They did the same for me last year, love my blue water rated seafurl 5, great upgrade from the 810 for a better than any other makers price!
 
tjar

tjar

.
Aug 8, 2011
166
Hunter Legend 35.5 Tacoma, WA
I'm learning a lot about furlers. The Hood upgrade kit from dual line to single line is no longer available. They now offer an upgrade discount to the 707 and 808 models. The 808 drum won't fit into the deck opening, so it would need to be mounted above the deck and the sail recut. The 707 is too small for the 35.5 Legend and can't handle an overlapping jib.
The Harken MKIV Unit 1 is supposed to be a good replacement and I will also look into the Seafurl 5.
 
tjar

tjar

.
Aug 8, 2011
166
Hunter Legend 35.5 Tacoma, WA
Settled on a new replacement to bring the drum up out of the well. This will allow a bigger drum for easier use and will make it easier to keep clean. I will have my old sail re-cut and put off the new racing jib until next year.
 
thinwater

thinwater

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Mar 26, 2011
3,609
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
For the record, there is NO NEED to take anything apart to change the line. Simply tie a small stopper on the end of the line, and then secure the line to the drum with a clove hitch. The set screws will grab the clove hitch, and the stopper is just for insurance. I wish you'd have read my blog post on Hood furlers; it would have saved a lot of work and money. My book, "Keeping a Cruising Boat for Peanuts" is full of tips like this. The link to the bookstore is in my signature.

http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2009/09/hood-seafurl-800-bearing-replacement.html
In this picture I stuffed the overhand knot though the hole with a screw driver, just for neatness, but it wouldn't hold much. The clove hitch does the holding. Very easy.
 
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tjar

tjar

.
Aug 8, 2011
166
Hunter Legend 35.5 Tacoma, WA
Thinwater, I searched this forum and others and never came across your blog. I wish I had, but it was time for it to go. I still needed to turn the shroud cover to get a better line feed angle and keep it from binding. I will certainly check out your book though.
 
thinwater

thinwater

.
Mar 26, 2011
3,609
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
tjar said:
Thinwater, I searched this forum and others and never came across your blog. I wish I had, but it was time for it to go. I still needed to turn the shroud cover to get a better line feed angle and keep it from binding. I will certainly check out your book though.
Click to expand
Another thing that helps is coating the line with either Yale Maxijacket (rope and knot supply). It reduces wear by 5-10 times. I don't know how it works, but I use it on furler lines and dock lines, and it is simply amazing. I've also used it on favorite cycling gloves and tote bag corners. Wear just stops.

You probably noticed I turned the cover on mine too. I simple ditched the tank and lashed it where I wanted it. Straight back really makes no sense, does it? The lead is always to one side. The factory lead was also on the deck, which was about 8 inches too low. After changing these things, the line last much longer.

In my case, the wear occurs because I use the sale about 15% reefed when sailing to the weather. Otherwise it rubs on the shrouds if it is in far enough. The load on the line is MUCH higher when roller-reefed, perhaps half the sheeting load.
 
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